cygnusx1

There are good cops and bad cops just like everywhere else. I have met both.

My 76 4-speed had the weight when I bought it in 1989 with 69k miles on it. I took it off right away, but I still have it. I wonder if I should put it back on to see if it actually does quiet the clunk down a little.

OK I made the decision to go with a Ford EDIS-6 ignition system and to mount a 36-1 wheel on the very front of the timing pulley. There seems to be enough room. I am going to use a Dodge coil pack so that I can use regular plug wires. I bought the coil pack and I am shopping for the rest of the parts over the next few days. Meanwhile, I'll study the Megamanual and the changes I'll need to make to the board.

I think, not sure, that the light blinks as the O2 sensor reading crosses a voltage threshold. It indicates that the sensor is reading O2 levels in and around the proper range. Again. "I think" Want to check to see if I'm right? http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=899299&postcount=32

...or a vice and a sharp file. Which is what I did last night to get number one cylinder intake wipe pattern correct. I filed 0.002" off the top side of the lash pad with a good hand file and steady hand. It came out really smooth and pretty even across the pad. I don't think these are case hardened so it should be fine. I will inspect it and watch the clearance for growth after a few hundred miles.

I am no electronics guru and I am just learning about other ignition options with MSII on the 83 L28ET. I am considering eliminating the dizzy and going EDIS. My biggest holdback is the fact that I have A/C in the car, so my front pulley and trigger wheel mounting options are somewhat limited. I have seen the 36-1 trigger cast into some flywheels but I ask does it need to be 36-1? OK here comes the crazy "outside the box" question. Is there any way to make the starter gear teeth on the flywheel act like a trigger wheel? Maybe by grinding off half of a tooth to signal a missing tooth to a sensor. Could MSII read a sensor on the flywheel gear teeth and turn that info into a spark timing trigger for a coil pack? Maybe adding a few magnets to a flywheel could signal an ignition? Any other ideas without messing with the front pulley? Slap me silly if you want to. It's just a dumb question.

I'm not laughing at you. I think Nissan knew it was going to throw off some people in the future. When I first began working on Z's, and saw the control arms for the first time, I thought I was being dupped also. That's why I'm laughing....I'm glad they used anti-sieze. Should be an easy fix. Those spindle pins can be the most difficult project of the entire car.

OK now we are getting somewhere! I really know nothing about the ZX Turbo distributor. I am now going to do some research on it and explore the options. Deep in my wallet, I felt the urge to convert to coil-on-plug and dump the dist. I don't yet know anything about, it but you can bet that by the end of next week I will be a pro. There is nothing worse than an intermittent problem that leaves you stranded at it's own will.

OMFG! Sorry but I am laughing so hard inside. I feel obligated to tell you that you need to flip one of the control arms over. More specifically, the right one, near your left foot in the photo! The arms are mirror images to eachother and flipped from the factory. This is CLASSIC! Really, I'm not trying to be a jacka$$, you just merely made my day. Sorry to hear about the bad service shop.

Thanks guys. I pulled some out of my L28 which were thinner than the ones that were in the old solid P90A that I found. I am half way through checking the wipe patterns on the P90A and was able to get the patterns pretty close to even with about 1/16" from the bottom edge of the pad by using pads from the L28 motor. Since the P90A still has the factory cam, it's not super critical. The cam only uses about 75-80% of the wipe area. The head that I found was in great shape but the valves were rusty, so I had new valves put in, and 5 angle seats cut. The cam, guides, rockers show almost zero wear. It must have been a low mile 280ZX that was parked for a long time. I am finally getting away from the hydraulic lifters. I think I'll miss the quietness but I won't miss the occasional tapping when they lose pressure. I still think this is a valuable thread as these parts are getting harder to find.

Thanks, I'll get a look at the Delta T values. I have gotten stuck twice on the road since MS-II. Both times the car just quit with smoke and popping from the tail pipe. When I tried to crank the key for a restart, the tachometer needle would jump, during cranking, from 0-3000-0-4000-5000-6000 RPMS swinging back and forth like an erratic, random, pendulum. I also got smoke out the tailpipe during cranking but no start. I tried cranking with wide open throttle, in flood clear mode and got the same tach behavior but no smoke. Both times, after 25 minutes of sitting, the car fired up and ran perfectly fine. What gives? Is my VB921 overheating? Is something else getting hot and modifying the spark timing signal? My coil dwell is usually around 2.6ms under most driving conditions but check out the huge dwell to 7.8ms during cranking, in the begining of the datalog. I have attached a Datalog taken a couple of weeks ago that might have caught some tach noise. Experts, take a look and tell me if you see any odd things in the ignition signals. Ignition Noise-CygnusX1.rar

One year later.....I have not had anymore problems with the firmware going bad. I have installed a 12v line noise filter from a car stereo supply store. I have had problems with ignition dropping out and going haywire. I am going to post my ignition saga in a new thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=915851&postcount=10

That is the ULTIMATE dream! Videos MUST!

Where can I get lash pads for a P90? I am in the process of checking wipe patterns on a "rebuilt" P90 head that I have. Before I put it on the car, I might need to change some lash pads. I want to find a place that can get them to me quickly if I need some. I will try to use the BRAAP method using feeler gauge shims to get the correct thicknesses for proper wipe before I order them. I have an L28 engine complete, and my old P90A head that I could rob parts from. Would they work for a P90? (assuming proper thickness). Is Nissan the only source?

One more light cut on the rotors and I may try a different pad. The pads I'm using were supplied by Dave at AZC for street use and track days.

I have the whole 4piston set with prop valve. They stop like nothing else, and most importantly, the feel is consistently SOLID, and the modulation is completely repeatable. You will learn the limits of your tires and suspension. With these brakes, you can stop worrying about brakes and start tuning elsewhere. I have used them mostly on the street and once at Watkins Glen International. My ONLY gripe is that the rotors needed to be cut from day one. I am going on my third time cutting the rotors. I personally can't seem to keep them straight. Yes, I allow cool down times after heavy use, and I bed them properly but they still warp, or build up uneven pad material....whichever it is, I can't tell.

So should holes be cut into the head gasket when it is blocking head ports? I suppose the answer is to leave it alone as long as the year-range of the gasket matches the year of the head.

Funny, I made almost the exact same numbers with mine at ZCCA in 2005 with the same setup and boost. 265/300 with factory injection on a Dynapack Dyno. I haven't rechecked with my MSII yet but I suspect I am near the low 300'sHP and 340-350torque based on my butt dyno, referenced to the way it was driving before the MSII and large injectors with a decent tune.

Thrust (sea level): 1,500,000 lbf (6.67 MN) 1,500,000lbf/(2600lbZ+20,096lbEngine) = 66:1 thrust to weight ratio with ZERO traction problems in a straight line!

What does it mean? J/K Looks Nice!

Is it that car we saw sitting along a fenced in boneyard with the JCR Cali kit on it? That photo was on here a couple of years ago. It didn't look like it was in very good shape. Might not be the same car though.

240, 260, 280 = grandparents of the 350Z. That's how I have to explain it sometimes.

I had an 82 Max Diesel Wagon that got stolen back in 90 or so. I rarely ever see them. Parts show up on ebay pretty frequently though. I think you can get $300-$400 for a good crank. Just a guess.

I like when people mistake my 280Z for a Porsche.

It's not a reset. I do feel some "deadness" or maybe a change of engine tone during the tach-drop event, but it's always during light throttle, low RPM, so it's not real pronounced. I will post my datalog tonight that shows the events or at least a screen cap of the events. It repeats two or three times in one datalog with an almost identical shape to the RPM curve each time, at the same RPM's. I am going to order some new plugs and wires. I need to custom make them to route them the way I did around the front of the motor. It's a long process. Maybe I'll just pick up a cheap set of standard Z plug wires and try those for testing.