cygnusx1

I just realized that instead of a 36-1 wheel on the crank or flywheel, you can use a 72-2 wheel on the front of the cam. You could then mount the VR sensor into the side of the valve cover. The two missing teeth on a 72-2 wheel need to be 180 degrees apart. Barring any timing chain slack, this would give you a good VR signal for EDIS.

Yup, only connected both shields to PIN 7 on the Module connector. Initially I had the EDIS powered off of the Fuel Pump relay which is controlled by MS. The problem is that the relay goes on for 2 seconds and then off until the engine starts cranking. It took me a few cranks to figure out that the fuel pump relay would not turn on after the initial key-ON. I have since wired it to the MAIN relay which is solid ON with the key. I even tried direct battery power to EDIS, to make sure the amp/volt was enough. All grounds are very solid. I plan to hit up a Junk Yard today.

I am in Putnam County, NY PM me about the turbo. I am interested in seeing how you did the additional PCB to run the tach. Thanks, Dave

Oh yeah! Shielded the PIP/SAW pair and the VR Pair right up snug to the connectors. I also made sure I had no continuity between the sheild and anywhere it wasnt supposed to be. I am also using shielded for the three wires that go out to pull in the coils. Although the shield on those is not actually connected to anything. I am now actually willing to bet I got a BUM module.....

Yup....but I think I figured it out anyhow. I will post the pinout when I know it's correct.

Mafiaz, thanks, I tried that this morning after reading a few posts where polarity was a question. I flipped the wires but no spark. I think got the polarity correct the first time because I got the whole harness from ebay and kept the wires in color order. I was also happy to find out that my VR sensor and trigger wheel mount are working. According to the data that BRAAP posted a while back I am right on target. With the air gap I have of about 0.020", I am generating 1.5-1.6 VAC from the VR during cranking. Seems good. I am really beginning to believe that the $14 EDIS-6 module I was sold on ebay was a faulty unit. Wouldn't be the first time bad stuff was sold on ebay! Not a total loss except for part of my Labor Day weekend trying to pull my hair out....if I had any hair left. I went to the local auto parts store with the module and they wanted to sell me a replacement for a jolly good price of $375. I damn near fell on the floor laughing.

This morning I disconnected MSII and powered the EDIS6 system from the battery directly. Still no spark. Can I use the stock 280ZX coil in place of the six-pack to see if it will spark that coil? I am just at the point of swapping EDIS parts out to eliminate the problem. I need to hunt down a another module and VR sensor. UPDATE: Tried the 280ZX coil with no spark either. I cranked the car and set my voltmeter to AC and got 1.6 VAC from the VR sensor during cranking. Is that enough? I think it's supposed to be 5 to 10 VAC? Can anyone confirm this? New question. Do the EDIS-6 module mounting tabs need to be grounded?

I am converting to EDIS from the 280ZX dizzy and working MSII. When I crank the key, I get no spark from any of the coils. As soon as I start cranking the engine, the LED closest to the connector flashes three or four times and then goes out. I don't smell fuel so I don't think it's injecting either. Megatune indicates no RPM during crank, but is actively seeing all the other sensors, and does not reset. Another question. Where does MSII get it's timing for injection? Does the timing for injector pulse come from the PIP/SAW wires? The module and VR sensor are from a junkyard....could be bad? I followed the wiring diagrams as follows. (with exception to the coil) The dodge coil pinout is different as far as I can tell. I double checked all my connections, traced all the wires again and it is hooked up just like that (minus the 25uf capacitor to ground). My VR sensor has about a 0.020" gap to the 36-1 wheel (I tried closer and further). PIP and SAW wires are connected to the proper pins on MSII. The sheilds are all connected to the correct pin on the module. I used 18g wires for most of it and 16g for the power and grounds. I am using the MSII that I bought pre-assembled from DIY, which should have the circuitry already installed for EDIS/PIP-SAW to work. In MegaTune, I set: Trigger offset = 0° Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge' Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated', Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS', Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)' Predictor algorithm option to 'last interval'. DO NOT set the missing tooth settings - the EDIS module takes care of the 36-1 wheel - MegaSquirt-II sees it as a regular distributor. I opened up the MSII and made sure all of these were in place: V3.0 main board: DB37 pin #36 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module DB37 pin #24 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module On the V3.0 main board: use the 'Hall sensor circuit' (step #50.a in the assembly guide) - jumper D1 and D2, <----assuming my unit was built from DIY like this. D1 D2 are each jumpered but not to eachother. jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink, jumper TSEL to OPTOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center. jumper JS10 to IGN (this uses the processor port for the SAW signal directly), jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,

Hang tough guys. Take all the precautions and you will be alright.

Sidwell. I came across an idea in the MS manual. "One method is to test on the starter (plugs out.) First mark your crank pulley with where each plug should fire and then strobe each coil tower in turn as you crank the engine to see which one fires. e.g. I was installing MSnEDIS onto a small block Chevy which has 18436572 firing order, so I marked 1 at TDC, 8 at 90 ATDC i.e. a quarter turn anti-clockwise, then 4 at 180 ATDC, then 3 at 270 ATDC. You can just chalk the numbers on roughly. When you have worked out which plug is which connect up the wiring and off you go. Remember that the coil fires a pair of towers, so in my example 1&6, 8&5, 4&7, 3&2 are the pairs." http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

Oh lordy....I hate wiring. I can wrench all day long but wires to me are like hairs in the shower. You know when you get so tired that you start fooling yourself. Well, I am sitting there finally finished pulling wires, and pushing, through all the places they need to go, All the wires are now near where they need to be. So I get this idea to turn on the ignition to make sure that MSII will still fire up after the mods I made to it. I look around to make sure there are no exposed 12v wires that may hit ground. All is good but MSII wont fire up. Neither relay main or fuel is coming on! WTF, I don't think I even touched that harness. After 30 minutes of tracing wires to figure out why there was no 12volt signal to MSII....I realize that my hidden kill switch was off. Time for a Corona....or maybe I should have had a few already.

Another Rush fan?

Phil, I can't wait to see the killer turbo motor!

My cousin is some sort of programmer/consultant...making an OK living. His co-worker...money from a long time family business

OK thanks, I thought it was already built into the MSII unit. Would I build that circuit in the prototype area of MSII? I am electronically challenged in a big way so it's going to take a while to finally make sense. I am a bit confused. I am reading the megamanual to see where I can find the info on how to do this. I also saw that I could tap into the three coils to make a diode triangle to drive my tach.... This only shows two coils but adding a third would be easy.

Clamp it to the pulley snugly. Measure the edges all the way around to make them equal. Tap it with a mallet to slide it into position. It will take a few times around but with a caliper you can get real close. Ultimately, you can turn it on a lathe to face off all the teeth evenly around. I am now making a wiring diagram for myself. The car is back together but needs to be re-wired fir the EDIS. Are you sure the Tach output from MSII will run the 280Z tachometer? I thought there was some sort of difference between 240Z and 280Z tach's. The 280Z tach has a resistor inline. I think I emiminated that resistor when I installed MSII originally. Does MSII tach output require the inline resistor or will it run the 280Z tach directly?

My cousin from Italy called me. He said he was doing well, especially after a two hour ride in his friends brand new Ferrari 599GTB. He sent me some photos. Next Summer I plan to visit and of course take a spin. It's his co-worker's weekend car that he ordered 2years ago with the $20,000 metallic paint upgrade. The car cost him 306K Euros. YIKES! His daily driver is a Smart Car! Photos taken where he works, in Rome.

Long shot, but I have seen this happen before with incorrect gauges. Is your gauge reading incorrectly when hot? I have seen sealed gauges not rated for high temp environments in engine bays. If the gauge is sealed, when it heats up, it will read low due to internal pressure in the housing. Especially a problem with liquid filled gauges in engine bays. "For liquid-filled pressure gauges that have uncompensated cases, accuracy errors can be introduced even with as little as 10 degrees F change in temperature. Under this condition, the potential for error is a result of internal case pressure build-up from an increase in temperature; this will cause a downscale pointer shift (the opposite will be true with a decrease in temperature). This potential for case pressure error will be present in pressure ranges of 100 psi and lower. When harsh (corrosive or dusty) conditions exist, hermetically sealed and/or liquid-filled pressure gauges should be specified. Either of these designs will prevent foreign elements from entering the case and adversely affecting gauge operation." Source: Experience and http://www.impomag.com/scripts/ShowPR.asp?RID=4779&CommonCount=0

I am biased. I like subies....all of them. Cool find.

My wife is totally against my getting a bike (fear for my safety). Fortunately, there are SOOO many other things I like to do that I can use NOT getting a bike as leverage to do all the other things. When I want to get another Z, I could say wow, look that Z cost about the same as a new crotch rocket? Which should I get? Z wins every time.

Thanks sidwell. Before I do this I want to clarify one thing. When you say put the voltmeter across one set of spark coils do you mean this? These are the three packs. 1 2 3 O O O---------- + Voltmeter (set to AC or DC) O O O---------- - - - - - PINS Assuming pin#3 is common. | .. | | .. | + .. - Battery 1.5v (blip wire to pin and look for needle jump on voltmeter)

Do this. My friend bought a bike but kept it at my house....I bought a bike and kept it at his house. "No, honey that's not my bike, I'm just storing it for Bill." The wives knew none the better. Just a joke....but it might work!

Thanks, I saw that post from Braap, but the coilpack I happened to pick up on ebay came with four pins arranged in a row. The connector shown in that photo by Braap is a square layout. This is what I expected: (square pinout like Braaps) _ _ _ _ This is what I got: (caravan/voyager pack). Which pin goes with which coil and how do I figure it out? (linear pin layout, similar to Fords, but not the same as fords, electrically) Although, the Ford connector fits after hacksaw and file treatment. _ _ _ _

Often times people approach me, mostly kids, and ask, "how did you learn to do all of this stuff?" My standard reply is, "By doing it." I tell them to read, read and read, go take a part off of the car, clean it, paint it, and put it back. Do that over and over, studying the parts, reading about what they do and how they work. Make an adjustment, notice a difference. Read why. Think about why. Why not. make one change at a time. Reset changes that don't do anything. Read, Read, Read. Get the RIGHT tools.

It is within .003" centered and I figure that is within range of the sensor operating gap and probably won't throw the balance out. Of course, if I had a lathe, I would have done just that. I have another problem though. For some reason, I marked tooth number 6 for TDC but the sensor sits in between tooth 5 and 6 at TDC after all is said and done. That means the base timing will be off by 5 degrees. I can redo the bracket, redrill the mount holes for the tooth wheel, or compensate in Megasquirt with trigger offset. Is it possible to compensate with Trigger Offset? I understand that the timing would still be 5 degrees off in Limp Mode. Thanks, Dave