cygnusx1

Yes you are probably getting the Priming Pulse when you turn the key but the ECU is not getting a timing signal to keep firing. A stim board would really help you narrow it down here. Is your TPS calibrated and wired correctly? You might be invoking flood clear mode. "The 12 volt supply for MegaSquirt MUST supply power in both the RUN and CRANK positions" double check this.

I second that.

Thanks Pete but I will be traveling in the opposite direction from you at that time. I will definitely keep my eyes peeled for your next dyno day though. There is no way I am going to get peak performance and not kill the motor by trial and error anytime soon! Good luck with the engine teardown/rebuild. -Dave

He also has a 650hp 2000 Jeep Cherokee, and a 1100HP '72 Vette N/A with 400shot. He let me drive the Vette...yes it's on the street! He said he was tired of all the young punks in their civics in Brooklyn. LOL. He has the final word. When he turned 60, he sold his NOS Honda Hurricane to build the 72 Vette. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-774747818384175825

This is map revision number three and it's already running as well if not better than the factory ECU. It's not quite as fast yet but that will come with tuning. I have it pretty rich and I am pretty easy on the timing. I am extremely impressed with how easy it was to get the car running and driving. I went from turing the key to the road in about 2-3 hours of careful tuning/setup. I even was able to tweak the warmup map this morning. I am VERY happy. The only gripe is that the BOV "whooses-gulps-whistles" alot. Sometimes when I am not really totally OFF the gas it blows off seemingly too soon. Other than that, I like the whoosh....it definitely scares animals and people. It's a Turbo XS recirc valve that is no longer being recirculated so it's basically an RFL without the velocity stack. I am going to try to tighten it down a bit and muffle it a little. Video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7863957486201502482 It doesn't look too fast but I might have been hitting 90 mph....about half way (1:20) through the video wink wink. Longer Version-Better quality:

Why plan when we can just copy you? Oh BTW car looks awesome Mike.

Darn, I missed it by ONE day. I got the Z fired up and running at about 10am this morning. I didn't have it running real good yet. Oh well thanks for the photos, and DEFINITELY next year I will be there!

Yeehaw! A couple of hours tuning and it idles and revs in neutral very well. I had to play with the Req Fuel and the VE table and I blended the Acceleration wizard with TPS and MAP. Once I blended the two, the throttle response got far better. I think I am at 40% MAP and 60% TPS blend. Whenever I snap open the throttle, it revs nicely but it makes a whiteish cloud out the tailpipe. I guess it's a bit too rich. I will add the wideband O2 senor after I take it for the maiden drive. Here is a video after two hours of tuning. EDIT: Correction to the video...it is running "ALTERNATING, 2 SQUIRTS" in the Injector Setup NOT SIMULTANEUOS. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3285052795322283374

Since I grew up working on my daily drivers, I learned to break projects up into bite size chunks. Even though my Z is no longer a daily driver, I still miss driving it when it's down so I keep the projects small. Most of my projects are weekend sized and $1000-$2000 at a clip. Sometimes they get as long as a couple of months but I try to time manage them. I can't bear having my Z down for more than three to four months at a clip. It's much easier keeping up the enthusiasm when you can get behind the wheel once and a while. Good luck with the job hunt!

I have six nearly new stock turbo injectors for sale.

It runs!!!! Cranked it over, adjusted the trigger angle while cranking and stumbling, shifted and transformed VE table around to get it to idle. Picked up a leak at the thermostat housing....I guess I gotta let it cool down and change the gasket. I am very happy.

NEVERMIND! I decided to turn the key and I discovered that I had not hooked up the fuel pump relay to the ign key.....doh. I connected it and the motor fired right up first crank for about 2 seconds. Just in case someone stumbles upon this thread: The ONLY thing I needed to adjust was the TRIGGER ANGLE parameter in Megatune. I just kept increasing and decreasing the trigger angle numbers until Megatune read the same as my timing light.

I am finished wiring the MS-II. I have not yet attempted to start the car. I wired it all according to the manual and the DIY page about wiring to the 83 Turbo Distributor with the 1K pull down resistor and the board modifications. I followed Mobythevans procedure about turning back the crank pulley to about 50-60degrees BTDC. Then I loosened the distributor bolts and rotated it back and forth within the timing adjust slots. I did not get any lights to come on on the MS-II box. I am tempted to just crank it over....any further advice?

Not so sure about the heat issue....I am going to make a copper heatsink as advised in the LC-1 manual. Hopefully I don't exceed the heat rating.

Looks real sturdy. Be sure to report how much different it makes the car feel. I am adding a triangulated tower brace to mine to replace the simple cross bar.

BTW, Matt Cramer advised me to leave out the wideband sensor for the initial startup and preliminary tuning phases. This is to prevent sensor fouling.

Thanks Phil, I thought about the water situation as well but in my entire life I have never had water in a car. I figure if Murphy's law don't get me I should be OK. The floors are tight and I think the rubber plugs are in decent shape. The only gripe I have about my install is that I will have to pull the seat to replace fuses....but in my entire life of driving cars I have yet to blow a fuse either....so I am playing the odds. Wish me luck as tomorrow night should be crank time.

The LC1 wideband as Mario said, comes with a controller but it's pretty small and is just a black box. It has two outputs that can go to a gauge and MS. The rest of the wires are for grounds, switched power, and calibration. It also comes with adapters and software so you can use a computer to datalog and configure the LC1. With a PC, and power source, you could use it as a standalone wideand O2 sensor. Mario, at least with the syringe I used to test the regulator, the response to pressure changes seems instant. I fed pressure and vacuum through about 4 feet of vacuum hose and the fuel gauge responded like it was directly connected to the syringe. On another note. I was able to drive the fuel pressure to pin the gauge at 60psi by boosting the regulator with the syringe. It seems to work perfectly...at least in the garage.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6658686358467759200 Still have work to do but all the grunt work is done. Now I need to connect some flying leads and tune, tune, tune. My goal was to attend the Limerock/Hemmings show this Sunday. I think I am too close to the wire (pun intended). I won't have enough trust in the car by Sunday to drive it four hours.

Light at the end of the tunnel! Last night I finished all the interior wiring. I ran dedicated power and grounds for each sensor and component. All the power wires, ground wires, and sensor wires are connected to the central location under the drivers seat. The Megaview display and LC-1 wideband unit are all mounted and wired. I carefully hooked up the battery for the first time in two months and CLICK the main relay came on and the system powered up! I hooked up the stim board and the Megaview is displaying parameters! It looks like I got all the wires right. All I need to do now is to solder/crimp all the flying leads in the engine bay. I am looking forward to turning the key this weekend and tuning!

Cllive, you know what I do when the Z discourages me. Go watch some Z videos and browse through a performance car magazine...Have David take you for another ride in his LS1 240Z....that should light the fire again. It will all be worth it. Just loosen the schedule a bit. Expect delays. Take your time and when it gets frustrating, go play GTR2 instead.

Congrats! Must be a great feeling. I hope to join you in MS celebration this weekend when I fire up mine too.

That does look like the same VFD that Megasquirt uses. Here is my display.

So there are a couple of ways to burn out the VB921. 1) Not choosing GOING HIGH INVERTED in megatune. 2) Using too much dwell. I will try to learn from your mistakes....I am going to fire it up this weekend for the first time with the MS-II.

I would say yes if it is a good build quality. 250HP no problem. If you go much more than that >300whp, or more than 15psi boost, you might think bigger. You could also make some duct work to feed air to the intercooler which would be even better and make that size good enough for even more power. I would use it. You could always upgrade to a similar one and keep the existing plumbing. See this chart for sizing and HP: http://www.racetep.com/tneticatoaic.htm