cygnusx1

Hey thanks guys. The car really improved when I took off the missle proof 76 bumpers and put on the thin ones. Hoke I cant accept a compliment from you without saying that your car is the hottest Z ever, inside outside underneath and everywhere. Oh and Proxlamus, I have your Z picture on my desktop at work...the one with you driving and the blurred scenery. Awesome!

I dont think anyone said you had to do that. The eccentric bushings work as well relocated as they do in the stock location. No difference at all.

You can put any parts on your car that you can imagine. As long as you do the research, have the money, and/or have the skills.

They move forward over the years from all that acceleration! J/K haha.

With a stock spring you may get quite a bit of travel and the induced "arc" from the T/C rods will stress the inner bushings/crossmember/inner LCA, but if you are running "race" springs and heavy swaybars, your normal suspension travel range will be pretty short. I think it would take a VERY long time to fatigue any metal in the front suspension structure. Besides, engineers select pretty malleable metal for front suspension parts for this reason exactly. The aluminum portion of the eccentric bushings, front and rear, should become a SOLID part of the car after is set and locked. The aluminum should NOT rotate. The nylon bushing should slip (rotate) over the aluminum or inside the LCA as the arm swings up and down. The bushings will STILL adjust camber even if you relocated the mount hole. SIDE NOTE: If you run poly T/C bushings, use a stock soft bushing on the back of each T/C rod instead of the poly. Enjoy Z.

I'd love to see how anyone would effectively lay an even coat of paint in between and on the fins of an intercooler. The only way to do that would be to dip it. I bet if it were paint dip coated, you would see a fairly significant efficiency drop. I agree that quickly spraying on a light coat of paint on the forward facing surfaces will barely effect it's performance. How about black anodize? Intercooler under the car? Go ahead and try it. It's still better than no intercooler.

I broke my left big toe when I mountain biked into a rock downhill toe first! I stopped from about 25mph using only my shin, my toe, and a boulder. I rode seven miles out of the woods with a t-shirt wrapped around my shin tightly to control the blood and with a numb toe. Three days later I went to get the toe x-rayed and it was broke. I did nothing for it. Just used a cane for a while. Now it clicks when I walk. Good luck with yours.

flames, I would change that username if I were you. We almost burnt up your 260Z because of it. Maybe you should buy a spare 260Z.

Spray on engine degreaser, then Marine Clean, lots of brass brushes, then the rest of the engine paint kit from POR-15....and elbow grease.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66895&page=2 Lot's of people didn't like the Datsun appearing with all the Muscle cars in the photos.

I shot alot of the early photos with my old Olympus C2500-L, a 2.5 megapixel SLR with a fixed lens. I've had the 20D for about a year and a half. I think it's the perfect camera for anyone looking to get into semi-pro/pro photography. The camera does not limit you in anyway. It will do whatever you want it to do. It shoots in low light with high ISO and very little grain or noise in the photos. Now is the time to pick one up used. The 30D was released and is not any better than the 20D. The 30D has a larger LCD which to a photographer means very little anyhow. The 30D drove down the prices of the 20D making it an even better deal.

I did this swap about three years ago but I just got an online account to host photos so I am finally sharing all the dirty details. Check out the photo gallery labeled Datsun. http://dcerutti.smugmug.com/ I added a larger turbo and intercooler, and electric fan about a year after I finishd the original swap.

Good point Pyro.

I hope they have a big gas tank and big wallet.

There was a thread about 2.5 years ago discussing the pros and cons of routing it either way. Basically you dont pick up much heat by running the cooled air back across behind the rad. First of all, the heat transfer characteristics to air of a large diameter pipe are poor. Secondly, the air is moving so fast that it's dwell time in the pipe is nil. Thirdly, if you pick stainless steel, any heat transfer is even more greatly reduced. I don't think it's worth losing sleep over. Route it the easiest, shortest way. That said, the other way is cooler, but very very very little. If you think really really hard, you can find a way to fit it all in. I have a cold air intake that comes up from under the drivers frame rail behind the headlight bucket. I run a cone filter in front of the front left spash gaurd in the wheel well. I also use, the AFM, AC, Intercooler, Oil Cooler, Radiator, and electric fan. Plus a recirculating BOV that pipes back into the intake boot after the AFM. It is crowded but it works well. I cut NO metal out ANYWHERE on the car and used all factory tap holes wherever I found them.

Only the Flintstones had a wider tire!

I'm not working on my car today!!! With humidity at these levels, the sweat won't evaporate off your body. Your body will not cool effectively. Thus it feels like 113F. As the temp drops into the 80's tonight, the humidity will stay in the 98% range. BLAAAAHHHH.

I have a four exchanger stack up front....Intercooler, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser, and radiator. It's a big fin sandwich. I drove it all over on Sunday and it was around 92 degrees out. I had the AC on and the temp gauge was running 1/4-1/2 back and forth. It was actually running cold. I guess the 16" Mr Gasket fan works well; too well. Stock radiator or stock replacement.