cygnusx1

Maybe he doesn't know english.

Owch! Don't cut up those beautiful fenders. I think the ZG flares would look good but I don't think is worth cutting up after all the work you've done. Build a gutted V8 Z for the straight tracks and use this one on the street and road courses. BTW...ZG flares in carbon fiber would be the holy grail!

فيصل welcome to HybridZ. Someone in Bahrain is good with an airbrush! Well Done!

Looks good. I see that the original valence does leave alot of room but the 240 grill fills it up well. My original valence is hanging in the garage rafters. I use a urethane air dam. It closes up that gap quite a bit. I am just using screen and it looks pretty good. I must say, the car handles much better with the lighter bumper. I was pleasantly surprised at how much difference in steering response and steering ease it made....or maybe im nuts. It definitely feels better though. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6671&size=big&cat=500

I am not totally sure about what I am going to say because I have reached the bottom of my TALL gin and tonic. Anyhow, the two signal lines are looking for a pressure differential to pop open the BOV. At WOT, the two lines see the same pressure and the spring is the only force that can keep the valve shut. Under boost, at WOT both lines SHOULD see the same pressure so they cancel out. As the throttle plate closes, you begin to develop a pressure difference between the two lines. The front line still sees boost but the back line starts to see less boost and maybe vaccum. When the difference in pressure between the two lines produces a greater force than the spring, the BOV vents. Under very high boosts, and the resulting high flows, you may be getting a pressure drop across your WOT. In other words, the TB could be a restriction even at WOT. Are you running 60mm or larger? As I see it. If boost is getting to both hoses evenly, and that pressure is getting delivered to BOTH sides of the BOV plate, then it should NOT blow off at any pressure. Explained: the boost on the inside of the BOV is pushing it open and the boost from the two lines is pushing it closed with the same force. They cancel and the spring holds the valve shut. You could mess with restrictors in the signal lines to modify the rate of signal. That would delay action of the BOV but it's all experimental and probably counterproductive in your case. You could also try locating different places on the manifold to pick up the signal. Good night I'm going to sleep well tonight.

Hi AL, how are you? Yeah I remember that gorgeous red Z. As far as the rear bumper mount, I did't think that the 280 has a mount on the rear valence for a bracket? I figured I would have to drill into the valence and make a backing plate with threaded holes. Hmm. I will find out later this week as I get into it more. If you have any photos or can snap one it would be a big help. Otherwise, I'll figure it out eventually. The front bumper definately leaves a large "mouth" open underneath. I have the original lower grill that I may put back. If that doesn't look right, I'll have to get more creative. BTW, I run an insect screen on the back of the grill all the way down to the valence/spoiler to keep crud and rocks out of all my expensive hardware in there. Thanks. Post more pics of the roadster! -Dave

Here is the bracket after being modified. I still need to drill two holes in it to match up to the two holes on the 280Z body shown behind the bracket. The one hole in already in the bracket will not be used. Here is the bracket cut shorter, cut and twisted, ready to be welded at the bend. Two holes will be drilled in the long leg of the bracket to match 280Z body holes originally for the big shocks. I hesitate to give any dimensions because you have to hang the bumper where you want it and then make the brackets to fit. I will make the all the bracket holes larger to allow for plenty of adjustment later.

There is not alot of info out on the web about doing this swap. Well, here I go. I purchased a set of nice '72 240Z bumpers from BLOZ UP here at the forums. I took the bumpers apart, ditched the dry rotted rubber strips and polished up the chrome with some off the shelf chrome polish. I am in the process of installing them onto my early 1976 280Z that has the big heavy bumpers, shocks, and tons of rubber trim. This morning I removed the 76 front bumper and shocks. Then I hung the 240 one with some duct tape off the hood. The side holes line up, but, the '72 brackets will not work as they are. After some pondering, while laying on my back under the nose of the car, I could see that the original bolt holes for the 280Z bumper shocks were the best bet for hanging new brackets. The 240Z brackets were no where near correct for this fit. I had to bend, cut, and weld them to fit. I will post pics as work progresses. Stay tuned as I complete the front and move to the back bumper.

I don't think he was referring to the name, but rather the fact that you hit a parking curb! LOL....had to say that. Don't worry, I did worse. I hit a parking curb with my wife's car!

WOW! Last time I saw that Z it was being pushed by a bunch of guys into a parking spot at the end of the ZCCA autocross. Sounds MUCH better now. I want that sound as my alarm clock.

Ahh I feel better now. So they won't fit my 280Z Stub axles. That's why I slaved over a lathe making my own adapters. Whew, I thought I wasted all that time cutting stainless for nothing. Thanks fastzcars

I am not 100% sure about this but I think these: http://search.ebay.com/280Z-turbo-flanges_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8 http://cgi.ebay.com/240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-6-BOLT-TURBO-COMPANION-FLANGES_W0QQitemZ8050732170QQcategoryZ33728QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem should fit '70-'78 S30 Stub axles and then allow use of 81-83 ZX CV half-shafts. I still don't know if it works but I don't see why it wouldn't. Anyone?

Clifton, thats hillarious! Would that be called brake horspower? LOL. Yeah AZC is a trustworthy company. I got no BS from them at all. I had my line lock fail and Dave got a new one to me as fast as he could no questions asked. I did have to turn my rotor hub assembly but he told me I would have to so I was not surprised.

$900-$1500 in my world. Depending on motor condition. Just a wild guess...don't get offended or anything. I could be wrong and often am.

If it were easy, anyone could do it. You are making an awesome car! NICE WORK!

Nice job fellas!! Holdin' down the engineerin' for HybridZ!

http://www.answers.com/topic/z-car?method=5&linktext=Z-car

What I find most amazing is what humans have been able to accomplish with the estimated, "4 percent real matter, about 23 percent dark matter, and about 73 percent dark energy". Those are basically all the ingredients we've had to work with and become from. In addition, there's the "God" thing and the extra-terrestrial life stuff, which we shouldn't get into here now. It's all fascinating.

Wow, nice hardware! Definitely post before and after pics! BTW Nice machining.

Yes, humid air IS less dense than dry air. That question tricked me in college and 'll never forget.

I did some MIG. It was real satisfying work and pretty easy after some practice. Hey, I wonder if the corvette forums have a welding thread or do they have a gluing-fiberglass thread instead? hehe.

Oh sorry I was unclear aboout the radio knob thing. As the wipers slow down, the radio volume could also lower to match the lower road noise level. Alot of cars already do the volume thing but I am not sure if they use a speed sensor or an ambient noise microphone.