cygnusx1

Looking better and better. I would do clear blinker lenses up front to set them off.

You don't HAVE to change the oil. You don't HAVE to change your underpants either.

I think the discussion should focus on the ability to run TWO DIFFERENT cam profiles simultaneously. A mild cam on on pair of valves and a wild cam on the other pair of valves. That is where S130Z was going, I think. I had an idea that might be similar to the CVCC idea by Honda. Instead of injecting fuel and trying to optimize atomization, somehow create a high concentration of fuel vapor in a pre-process, and then blend it into the incoming air at the proper ratio. After all, it's the vapor that burns best.

Really? Not mine.

Member of the CTZCC donated his red Z for this video.

Clean the AFM, TPS, Head Temp, and ECU connectors with electro-clean spray and use dielectric grease, smeared into the connectors, to assemble them again. It's cheap, easy and should be done regardless of the issue. Idea 2: Stuck injector. Idea 3: Stuck AFM flap Idea 4: Plug wires. Good luck!!! My idle smoothed out incredibly by side-gapping the new set of NGK's. Look it up.

Nice! I think the ride height is perfect. IMHO.

If I tried that, the cost would double instantly.

hehe thanks. I ordered the can of paint from http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ I am very happy with the quality of the paint and the nozzle.

I went the cheap and quick route. Didn't want to take too much time and effort because in a few years the car will get re-painted correctly. I felt that this paint has another 3-5 easy years of life left in it to allow me to save up. Wiped out the rattle can tonight but I think it does the job. It's not a pro finish but I wasn't expecting one. I just wanted a clean look with no exposed metal surfaces to rust. Looks fine in the dark. I'm not sure how it's going to look in the daylight but I don't really care too much. The main defect you would notice is the variation of gloss level. Maybe after the paint is dry, I will go over it with some polishing compound to even it out. Maybe not. BEFORE: AFTER MATCHED RATTLE CAN:

Looking good!

With a good steering wheel and simulator, you can learn to be a better driver. You DO feel the wheel slip, bumps, and steering forces in a FF wheel, and if you play enough, you won't miss the g-forces. Your eyes will learn to see what the car is doing and "translate" the visuals into g-force-like reactions. I practiced Watkins Glen on GTR2 sim for about a year. I had gotten as fast as I was going to get on the Simulator. Then, I went to Watkins Glen for real with an instructor. The instructor taught me a bunch of tricks to be faster on the real track. When I got back home, and got back on the sim, I picked up seconds over my previous year's worth of practice best times on the sim. Now, that tells you that track-sim and sim-track relationship is REAL. Playing Richard Burns Rally, has made me a much better REAL LIFE driver in adverse conditions such as rain, dirt, and snow. Sims are not a 100% substitute for the real thing, but they are effective. Just ask the FAA and the Military. To give it an HONEST try, you really do need state of the art hardware. Not many laptops can handle the needed power, despite what their specs say. Laptops are still POWER limited and I mean COOLING. You just can't put enough power through a run of the mill laptop to push the kinds of graphics this stuff requires. They would overheat if they pushed "desktop" kinds of power through them. A solid desktop less than 4 years old, with a $200 video card, and 2+ Gigs of ram should do fine.

90mm why? Because it's BIG-Phil , not Big-Phil. Is the wastegate creeping closed after becoming fully opened, due to a bad actuator or a leak in a hose?

It's water under the bridge, guys. +/- $1500 in a thorough Z project is peanuts. Keep it real.

I thought about the water issue before mounting the ECU under the seat. I have first hand experience with low mounted electronics from working for Honda way back in the day. They had a whole fleet of new cars the was partially submerged. What really hurt was that the water level got just high enough to reach a little above the floors. The ECU's were wet. For me having the ECU under the seat is just one more reminder not to drive the Z in the rain. I think it would be worse to mount it in the floor of a race car, because you never know when the rain will hit at the track, and you mostly run with windows down. Many times racers run no door seals and poor window sealing also.

That looks like a great project!

Drivers seat. The serial cable runs forward under the carpet into the center console and connects to MegaView in the radio panel. My console has a hole in it with a cover so that I can unplug the cable from the MegaView for tuning with the PC. I know it says not 280Z but I assume you assume that we mount it in the stock location.

Of all the car stuff I have done in my life, bodywork is the one thing I never invested any time into. I really don't have the sculptors hands. However I do know how to hold a can of spray paint. The paint in this car is OK but it is flaking in the engine bay. I posted another thread about it. I was going to strip it off and repaint it. I decided to get the loose stuff off, and spray-can it as a temporary fix. So I got online, researched the color. I was told it was an 80's Ford Red#24. After some research I found out it was 87 Ford Medium Merlot #2H. I found someone to mix me up a rattle can of #2H. So tonight I decided to sand one of the areas that had chipped. Then I primed it with a high build from a rattle-can. An then came my first time ever....painting a car...albeit with a rattle-can. I was floored. It came out MUCH better than I had expected. My goal was to get a decent coat of paint over the bare metal to keep it from rusting until a real paint job comes along. I think I got much more than that for about $25 worth of supplies. I am even more excited about this build, since I discovered I can actually make this car look really nice with only a little bit of touching up.

There seems to be some EDIS reservations in this thread but there are plenty of other threads giving EDIS and MS a pretty big blessing. I don't want to hijack, but for anyone reading this thread, don't discard EDIS as a replacement for your dizzy if you are running MSII. I am no electronics expert, but my car runs very well with the EDIS on MSII and I am not the only one. Of course there are pluses, minuses, and limitations to everything. I can only say, "Do some searching." It is black and white after you understand it fully.

Thanks Tony. I will check TWM. I tried the usual McMaster but they charge ridiculous prices for these things. My next guess was giant scale RC planes where nice links were available for ridiculous prices again. I may just hack out some aluminium downlinks as well. They don't need to be adjustable if the upper links can be clocked with a set screw clamp arrangement. I can just make a solid link with shoulder bolts on either end.

Yes happy thanksgiving to all the online and offline family! Now I can't remember, did you want your Z to be turnkey or turkey?

Relax guys it was all just a misunderstanding.

..until the 280ZXT dizzy takes a random crap. And when it does, it craps in random failures, which mysteriously disappear after 20 minutes of cool down. For the price of a new/rebuilt ZXT Dizzy you can get about 5 EDIS setups in a junkyard. Besides, EDIS can throw a spark...lightning bolt, 2"+ long easily. It's not COOL. It's HOT! mmm hide injectors UNDER my Canon intake and put in a dual system....Triples or EFI with the flick of a switch! How James Bond.

Sure shoot me some pics of what you can find! That would be very helpful. I intend to make my own billet drop-arms but I still need good links and balls down to the carbs. The ones on the carbs now are all sloppy.