cygnusx1

Sex for clunkers.

Love the Northern Wooly-Mullet at 3:45

Hail to the L28ET!

Maybe golf-ball style dimples would be better....Mythbusters?

SaWEEEET!!

I already fell into the "while I am at it" pit. Oh Man, someone throw me a rope! Found out the paint is 1987 Ford Mustang Medium Cabernet (2H) I ordered some Medium Cabernet in a spray can to respray some of the peeling engine bay. Now all I need is some Cheez Whiz and crackers. I went over the whole bay with a scraper and knocked off all the loose paint and sanded the areas.

Definitely an intake/exhaust restriction. Why? Valve timing/Cam wrong, valves not opening enough, clogged exhaust, hydraulic lifter problem... Did someone leave a rag in the intake or exhaust? Stranger things have happened. How are the AFR's?

That REALLY sucks. I would be in deep depression. Hopefully all they do is take the wheels....little do they know the wheels are not as expensive as they look.

You didn't see my sons tricycle which also matches! It's an 80's Ford Red #24 From the early Mustang GT's. Not my favorite color. But OK for now.

Link fixed.

The video is processing at youtube so it should be ready shortly.

My new '72 240Z came with an un-installed 6-point weld in roll bar. There is a sticker on it that is partially torn, but I am pretty sure it reads Arizona Z Car. It has never been installed. Anyone have one of these and care to share a photo of its installation?

Yup I checked it well tonight, it is definitely bare steel underneath the flaked off paint. Apparently the PO was not kidding when he said they stripped the car to bare metal before the repaint. The paint chips are the same color on both sides and the metal is exposed. I am on the fence. I may just chip off the loose paint and "spray can" the chipped areas to match until I paint the whole car in a couple of years. Or I strip and paint the engine bay now with spray cans in semi-black, then paint the outside of the car professionally in a couple of years. I am not going for show or full resto right now. I just want a fair weather driver/track day Z that I can keep totally rust free until a "real" paint job in a couple of years. The key goals right now are drive-ability and preservation of this straight, NO RUST, chassis.

I had a head gasket get oil on it during assembly due to some oil that was still pooled in a stud hole. That gasket never sealed right. I had to change it again. You could get lucky but I would consider it a marginal part at this point. Use with extreme caution. Keep your eyes peeled.

Might as well drive it a little, taking care to check the oil and water levels very frequently for a while.

So I could be looking at just the bare steel of the body under the paint chips.

I am calling it zinc because it has the appearance of galvanized metal. I am not 100% sure it is zinc. I will try chemical stripping in a few spots like the strut towers to see how it goes. It isn't the first time this car has been completely stripped because there is no trace of the original silver paint under the red paint, unless what I am calling zinc, is actually scuffed original silver. I doubt it though. I tried scratching it and it felt like metal.

OK my new 240Z has decent Urethane paint on it that was sprayed in 1987. It is in decent shape. The car had been stripped to the bare metal and then it looks like they did a Zinc coating on the bare metal, then they sprayed it and undercoated the bottom. The problem is that it seems that the Urethane paint is de-bonding and flaking from the zinc layer on the metal in certain spots. It is mainly in the engine bay due to either lack of prep or heat. I don't plan on painting the entire car for the next two or three years but I want to prep/paint the engine bay now while it is totally empty. When I do paint the car, I don't know what color it will be so I think I want to make the engine bay black to go with any exterior color in the future. Can anyone recommend a good way to strip off the Urethane paint in the engine bay without ruining the zinc prep that is on the base metal? The car is currently immobile in the garage and I really can't roll it outside to use a hose. Any rinsing will be done with spray bottles of water and a drip pan to catch the runoff on the garage floor.

You can use this rule above but keep your initial and max advances conservative. I run 27initial/38max on the, lower compression, L28ET engine. You may want to keep max around 30???? Wild guess.... anyone with the L28E motor have a max advance suggestion for Sidwell?

What is your compression ratio? That will affect your maximum advance... General rule is to be "all-in" by about 3000rpms and pull about 1.5 degrees out for every PSI boost. Can anyone correct me if I am wrong here?

If the pump is dying because the voltage supply is dropping out, then yes, bigger wires/relay.

Thanks gentleman. I found a folder full of paperwork in the glove box. Several owners manuals, original bills of sale, dealer cards, all the bills for the paint job, and other items purchased over the years. I'll list the biggies: Strip Chassis to bare metal and paint with urethane - $4200 (1987) New front fenders, new hood, new front bumper included to fix hail damage. Fix minor dent in roof. Removed glass and replaced seals and trim. Strip floor pans to bare metal and coat with white epoxy paint. Stainless Brake flex lines. ....and other misc. stuff.

It came with two dashes. The spare one has a half cap on it but looks very nice. It looks like the PO, had the car stripped to the bare metal before painting it Ford Red. Where the red paint peeled in the engine bay and one spot on the rear quarter, it seems there is bare metal exposed. It was originally silver but the only evidence of that is the hatch floor. The floors were stripped, blasted and epoxy painted in white before they ever had a chance to rust. Tomorrow I will empty out the interior and take an inventory of parts. Then I'll compile a parts-needed list, and a parts-for-sale list. The set of keys I got with the car does not seem to work. Maybe the locks are tight after sitting dry for 30 years. I will have to call the PO to make sure I got the right keys.

Well, All Aboard came through after some hair pulling, and nerve wracking banter. They even delivered early. It arrived at 9:15pm tonight. The driver had called and told me where he was, so I knew he was coming. I ran to home depot to buy a bunch of rope to rig up a system for pulling the car up my driveway, and into the garage. We used 300 feet of 250lb test rope, doubled up. I hooked it to my dads Jeep Liberty, wrapped it around a tree as a guide pulley, fished it through the rear garage window, and down the driveway. We tested it tonight and it worked flawlessly. Technically, I drove her for the first time tonight under rope power. This car is STRAIGHT except for the door dent which I can deal with. All the lines are dead on, the paint is perfect for a DD, rust is missing? Even under it's paint, there is no hidden rust detectable. Underneath is the cleanest Z I have ever seen. Pics of course.