cygnusx1

Wow. My neighbor bought a pair of these! LOL. Yah, that hole needs to be patched. I used my zip and a common last name, like you said. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=489055

I have my 280Z tach running directly off of PIN 2 on the EDIS module. It is somewhat intermittent and works best when the car is warmed up, or in warmer weather. I already bought the diodes to rig up the circuit to try out the (-) coil wiring scheme though.

1972 Alfa Romeo Berlina, SPICA Mech. Fuel Injection and then converted to dual Webers. I had 3pc. BBS wheels on it, lowered, and it was British Racing Green with tan interior. It was fast for it's appearance.

Congrats to the new admin "RTz" and congrats to Challenger for pursuing the Mechanical Engineering Degree! G'luck!

Must be California spec glass. I've never had glass fail from thermal stress unless it was already cracked and it went from extreme cold to hot very quickly (hot deftroster). Even then, the stress would only propogate a crack line, not detonate the pane.

We got about 14" or so this weekend. Man I love the WRX with Blizzaks!

You can always add layers in the cold but you can only remove so many in the heat...that's my rationale for preferring the cold weather.

Your best friend, my friend, is aluminum foil. Wrap everything you don't want to paint, paint, then remove the foil. Easy as 1 2 3. As far as painting it professionally...I can't answer that. I used a good cleaner on the old paint and used a rattle can with aluminum-flake high temp paint. It's a satin finish. So far it has held up well for about 6 years. Rattlecan and tinfoil.

We are getting about a foot of snow today so last night I was out doing some final tuning of the MS, in around 25degrees. The snow is going to force the Z into hibernation for a while. In 25degrees, the 225's break loose in a roll on when the boost hits. Scared the crap out of me when the rear began stepping out at 55mph in a straight line! I have driven it down to around -10deg or so in the past. I remember my friends 280ZX starting up in Ithaca, NY around -20 with ice crystals in the radiator. She fired right up perfectly. He subsequently sold the Z's and moved to the Northern border of MN to work at Polaris and saw -40 and less regularly with his other vehicles. He told me about the dangers of travel in that cold of weather. If your car breaks down and you don't have a search crew looking for you, you are in a very deadly situation. http://outside.away.com/outside/magazine/0197/9701fefreez.html

Go ahead admin's and show Chuck the powa!

Clive and I spoke, and what's not apparent in this thread, is that his goal is a stock appearing street turbo Z, and a flared LS1 track Z. That's why I came up with the plan I did. IMHO, I don't think it's worth dismantling the entire LS1Z (EvilZ) and the entire Red (B.Sharp)Z, and then swapping EVERYTHING over to the red Z just to get the flares.

Looking at Clive'e big picture...this is my suggestion: LS1 Z: (track days) Keep the LS1 Z (EvilZ) as is. It is pretty well dialed in and has all the parts that anyone would ever need on a Z, Patch up some minor rusty panels, have the cage welded in place, cut the fender lips off and add some BAMF ZG flares, throw on a coat of "track day quality paint", have the wiring neatly cleaned up. DONE. Track car with streetability. Bob Sharp Special Red Z: (profit maker) Clean it up with detailing, get it running with carbs and fuel system cleanup, put a history log book together with all the awesome history Bob Sharp papers and catalogs that came with the car, Sell it for a 100% profit. This New Z: (turbo street show sleeper) Use the money from the sale above, fix the minor external rust on the car with welded panels, paint it show quality, put in the turbo motor and an R200, put in some basic street performance part suspension, and nice wheels. Keep it stock in appearance.

The myth has finally ended...there are as many Z's in the Northeast as on the West coast...they are just hiding.

My Walbro 255lph external pump has slowly began making a lot of noise heard inside the car. It sounds like a dishwasher drain with a little bit of marbles rattling around in it. Sorry, best description of the noise I can do. It sounds sort of like cavitation, but my AFR's are right on at all speeds, and the fuel pressures are right on. The funny thing is that at idle, I can really hear it loudly while sitting inside the car. If I go outside and stick my head near the pump, I hear nothing unusual. From outside, it sounds like a nice clean running electric pump buzz. The rubber isolators are intact and the pump and bracket don't seem to be rubbing on the underside of the car. Could a bad pressure damper cause the noise? I am going to try a few things if I get time this week to isolate it. I am tempted to order a spare Walbro because the sound is so bad inside the car.

OK here is the scoop in case anyone wants to know. The duplicity is perfectly fine. The values for ASE and COLD Priming PW can be entered in either window and they carry over and synchronize to the other window, which is fine. The Cranking PW and the Priming PW are two different conditions so they remain independant. I answered my own question with some experimenting.

Here is what I am referring to. See Attached. It the same thing twice. Which one is valid? I think I can enter different values for each one.

I just bought a TON of cheap shares of US Oil Funds (USO). Let the prices go up! The way I figure is that if prices go back up, the funds will pay me for the extra cost of fuel. If they go down, I won't need the cash growth. It's a win-win. New Jersey is seeing $1.45 at the pumps. NY Suburbs is around $1.99

Thanks guys. I understand what the ASE does but the fact that I can enter the same data in two different places has me confused. I will try to post screenshots.

How about a Dogcicle? http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5iAEktIt8EwZ507DphptcsoMo6y5wD94SNTNO0

MSII v2.687, Megatune 2.25P3. In general settings I can pick 2-point or Table values for ASE. Then I can input values for the percentage of fuel enrichment after start vs temperature. I can also input number of ignition cycles to taper off the enrichment vs temperature. My question is: Why is there a place to add values for Additive Enrichment% and Number of Ignition Cycles in the "Warmup Wizard" section. This section is NOT greyed out whether or not I pick Tables or 2-point in the general settings. This seems redundant? No?

Here she is next in line for the paint booth. Mike's Z is going to get a blue shower tomorrow! Fingers crossed.

Wow where did you find half the suit of armor for the king's octopus?

Is this one of our guys? If so, nice parts and decent prices too. http://designproductsracing.com/Z_Suspension1.html

Your can makes the 75/76 bumpers look nice. I like them better with the rubber cubes removed. Nice Z!

Very nice. What gear were you pulling in? It sounds like second. Sounds just like my car. Fast isn't it?