cygnusx1

I tried a couple of different random positions yesterday but both bound up the output shaft when I tightened down on the retainer. I will spend more time studying it tonight.

I did it almost the same way but I wish I had opened up the center so I can check the main pulley bolt without removing the wheel. Did you put some locktite on the bolts?

I just want this to be clear !!!!WRONG!!!!

You need to drill a new hole in the trans shifter ears. The original hole is down too low for the extensions. The problem is that you would need to put the new hole overlapping the original hole. Rather than do that, I placed the new hole just above the original (the shifter was still long enough to reach the shift rod). I used a hand drill and the cast material drilled very easily. Keep the chips out of the tranny! Being that the new hole was now too high for the extension plates to fit snugly on top of the ears, I used a liner of JB-Weld to fill in the gaps. The kit bolts hold the extension in place but the JB Weld will keep any potential slop out of the picture. I also dabbed some JB onto the inner heads of the bolts to keep them from spinning when I tightened the nuts. BTW, I needed to grind a tiny bit off the threaded ends of the bolts to get them to "snake" into the ears. An alternative to the JB Weld would be to drill another small hole for a dowel pin. Before the JB Weld sets up, install the shifter and pivot pin to make sure your two plates line up perfectly.

I searched. I have swapped spedometer pinions in the past but this time I noticed that the pinion shaft is eccentric from the body. Nissan did this so that the same body could be used with different pinion diameters. So, I insert the pinion housing and rotate it until the pinion engages the output shaft I can sort of check backlash by grabbing the pinion shaft with a needle nose and wiggling it. My problem is that whenever I lock down the retainer screw on the trans housing, the output shaft becomes hard to turn by hand. I tried two different pinion housings and two different pinions but both of them cause the output shaft to tighten up a little. If I leave the retainer screw loose, the output shaft turns freely. Any advice? I looked at the MT section of the factory manual for the 82 Maximas...but didn't see anything about this.

Fresh out of the 1981 Datsun 810 Factory Manual: FS5W71B 1. 3.321 2. 2.077 3. 1.308 4. 1.000 5. 0.752 R. 3.382

Pete great to hear. You are correct with your photos. The lower photo is how mine arrived wrong! How do the rest of the internals look as far as wear?

They are both right. It's the number of teeth on the gear that matters. Not the color. Although Nissan's consitency will lead you to choose gears by color..but you may count the teeth if you'd like. I think I've seen white pinions as well. Not entirely sure.

Oh one more thing...make sure he understands clearly that none of the chaos is his fault.

Whatever happens or is decided....make it clear that it's ALWAYS in Bryce's best interest. Let him know that although things might get shaky for a while, ultimately, whatever HE want's and whatever is best for HIM, will eventually be HIS. Hang tough Bryce!

If that cage was tack-welded, his life has more to do with modern safety "built-in" from the factory, than that cage. In otherwords, I would be thanking Mitsubishi, not the cage. It might just be the padding that makes it appear tack welded.

I beg to differ. Working on a Z or a toy Z is still rewarding.

Grabbing credit card as I type with one hand!!! I already have a bunch of LiPo batteries from my RC planes that should work.

Wouldn't the factory manual have the ratios for the tranny? I might actually have the manual in my garage. I had an 84 Maxima Diesel Wagon at one point in life. I'll take a look.

Cool find. Thanks.

Looking Great Mike!

LOL, Actually it's called the $8.99 engine bay paint job that looks like a $108.99 job. Two cans of aluminized brake caliper paint, half a roll of aluminum foil for masking stuff I'm too lazy to unbolt, some towels, tape, and a comfortable seat on the crossmember. Make sure to rest your beer on the opposite frame rail from where you are spraying. Thanks, rturbo, my rule is: paint what you don't want to see, black, and what you want to see, silver or another bright color.

He did say "engine bay". Not engine. or just... OK twist my arm...

Austin, with the car idling, pump the brake pedal a couple of times. Does the pedal get stiffer? If it does, you might have some air bleeding into the master from the rear seal, or your caliper piston seals may be pulling the pads back away from the rotors. Some caliper seals are designed to do this. They require a special master cylinder to eliminate the pad gap quickly when pressing the pedal. I think Corvettes use these types of seals. http://www.ucx.com/documents/squareseal.pdf http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic30642.htm

Check this out. Satriani sues Coldplay

Yeah it happened a lot back then and to some earlier artists it may have come as a compliment. Times have changed.

Austin, I know how you feel, my WRX has had spongy brakes from day one, brand new, and it's the only thing that deducts from driver confidence in that car. I think it's the norm for Subaru brakes, aside from the STI which is very firm. My Z setup is the 15/16" ZX MC, original 280Z booster, all the factory safety&prop valves, stainless/teflon flex lines, AZC brake kit, and I have an extremely firm pedal that works right off the brake light switch. They bled easily with no hassles. I actually had to ease off on the linkage to get the brake down low enough to do heel and toe comfortably. Something is wrong with yours so don't think it's inherent. I am not familiar with the vette calipers. Check for firewall flex, out-of round rotors that push the pads back, and maybe mess with the safety and proportioning valves if you still have them in the lines. They could be holding air, dirty, or part clogged. I HATE spongy brakes as well. Pet Peeve. One of my recurring nightmares (yes I have dreams about it) is a spongy pedal with little or no brakes...probably from when I boiled the fluids in the stock system at Limerock Park.

Get yourself the factory manual and study the car. Once you understand all the systems, you will be in a much better place to diagonse the problems. A Z motor can easily outlast 180,000 miles if maintained. You don't need to raise the boost. Modding comes last when you know the motor is in good enough shape. Read and Search. Welcome. Remember we don't spoon feed basic info here. Especially stuff you can find in a factory service manual. OK some spoon feeding. You need Fuel, Air, Compression, and Spark to make it run correctly. Make sure you have the proper amount of all of those.

I sketched up a bracket that can be used to adapt the MSA Short Shifter to the ZX Nissan 5-speeds. I am going to make a prototype tomorrow and test fit it over the weekend. I'll post a drawing for the parts when it works.

I get a tach signal from PIN#2 on my EDIS-6 module. Unless, it's cold out, or the idle drops below 900rpms, it works. It is temperature dependant...it's a Southwest/Northeast thing...