cygnusx1

Maybe unrelated but a tidbit of info... When you hot start a Z (even in colder weather) typically it will run lean for a few minutes if the fuel rail has heat soaked. Using the IAT tables. What I do is set about a 15% correction enrichment on the IAT for IAT temps of 180F and then set 0% correction at around 70F. This helps smooth out the transition from heat soaked hot start and "somewhat" compensates for a hot fuel rail until the temps stabilize to normal.

Thanks for the clues guys! Excellent places to start. I already disconnected cleaned, dielectric, and reconnected some of the connectors in the circuits. Next, I'll take out the bulbs all around and clean the sockets. Then I'll trace some wiring and grounds.

Just go try the FREE versions of Richard Burns Rally and LFS on PC. X-box is OK but on the PC with a good system and wheel/pedals, you will get some valuable lessons. You will get your answers if you spend enough time training on them. A lot of people give up too fast on the simulators because they are "too difficult". I predicted that EvilC would last 1:30 seconds on his first run in RBR. He lasted 30 seconds in RBR and he is one of our fastest drivers in GTR2!!

Maybe they should try NASCAR for a while.

I have no idea if these problems are related and it's going to be tough to describe so here I go: 1)Cold start...25degF 2)Left Front blinker and hazard bulb appears dead. Also dead with driving lights on. 3)Left blink indicator in dash stays lit solid with left turn signal. 4)Tachometer that is fired off of EDIS-6 module. Very erratic tach, needle mostly parked at zero. 5)Car warming up. 6)Right blinker works fine but causes tach to bounce in time with the blinkers. 7)Car mostly warmed up. 8)Both left and right blinkers and bulbs are now working fine but causing tach needle to bounce when blinking. 9)Hazards work fine. No tach bouncing with hazards on. 10)Left blinker stops working. 11) Now right wont blink but left will. Both when blinking, will cause tach to bounce. 12) Fully warm with warm engine bay. Everything works fine. Including tach and all blinkers and hazards. No tach bouncing. Nothing wrong anymore!? 13)Should I move to florida where it does not get cold? OK WTF? I don't expect a lot of people to read this and make any sense of it but I would appreciate any wild guesses.

There used to be a website that dissected the L-Jet ECU's. It had some information about tweaking fuel curves by changing resistor values. I managed to find a small piece of the site. http://home.swipnet.se/joakim_adolfson/lotus/html/injection-text.html I think that the rest of the site used to be here but no longer exists: http://www.students.tut.fi/~katajain/index.html

Now bed them in properly and you will be amazed at their stopping power. Make sure you get the F-R bias right too.

I bet you could find a compression fitting to fit the block vent tube after you hack off the swage on the end of it. If you can get a compression fitting on there, you can reduce it cleanly to any sized NPT or AN fittings. There are plenty of options if you get a little creative.

That looks like my driveway too. Steep. Nice looking home.

The problem is that the torque required to stretch the bolts varies depending on the lubricant used. ARP has no way of throwing a torque number at you unless they know the coefficient of friction in the threads. When using their grease, they have solid test data to back up their torque specs. I used that gray anti-sieze paste on my second install and found it very smooth. I went to 70ft-lbs with the anti-sieze paste since I couldn't find moly-grease at my local "chrome-stuff-bling-only" auto shop. Take a quick read through this PDF file. Torque-vs-Tension on studs for various lubes. It's a bit of an advertisement but it demonstrates the point. http://www.altboron.com/tech_data/pdf/fastenertorque-tensiontestsusinglubrisilksyntheticgrease.pdf

ROFL 2002 WRX is my DD.

Im a long time LFS player as well. Great simulator. But you must try RBR though...seriously, don't pass up the chance. http://www.amazon.com/Richard-Burns-Rally-PC/dp/B000C97156 FREE DEMO http://www.amazon.com/Richard-Burns-Rally-PC/dp/B000C97156

Avoid using motor oil on the nuts if at all possible. If you don't have the ARP lube leftover, use the gray/silver anti-sieze lube or moly based grease. I found that engine oil binds the nuts up and prohibits a smooth rotation which is a MUST for accurate torque application. Somewhere in the ARP literature I also read that after a couple of re-uses, the torque values needed to apply the correct stud stretch, drops. This is due to the thread contact surfaces smoothening out from usage. They also claim that the BEST method is to use a measuring tool, and to torque the studs to a pre-determined proper stretched length. I don't have the actual length numbers but I'm sure ARP could provide them to you. 99.99% of the people don't have access to such a measuring/torquing device though this would be by far the most accurate way of assuring proper tension.

You are getting a massive spike in the TPSdot and then some rise in the MAPdot which might be a result of the engine choking. Your Throttle position never moved. Repeat the idle test with the TPS connector off. If it happens again, you are getting noise on the TPS line...possibly. If not, you might have a bad TPS sensor.

Mike, turn off all of your accel corrections until you get a decent tune. You can do that by raising all of the thresholds for accel inputs. I like my motor to idle at 900-1000 rpms fully warm. It seems to respond to throttle better when coming off idle with the idle slightly high. You really need to get a wideband O2 in there eventually. I wired my "widget" the same way you did Mike. However, I think you can make MS turn the widget on and off at setpoints with some more programming/wiring. Get under the hood and add some shielding to as much of the ign signal wires as you can. Also read up here on the importance of PROPER plugs and plug wires for MSII to rule out noise. After the car starts cold, watch the Warmup Wizard and dial in the AFR's manually as the engine warms up. I am not sure if you can do this with your narrowband O2 sensor, but you will be able to "tweak and feel" for a smooth idle all along the warmup process. I may be available this Saturday or Sunday mid-day if you want me to swing by. PM me.

Just in case you have a wheel and pedals for your PC already, and you aren't convinced that this is the best peformance drivers ed. that you can do inside your house...here is a chopped up clip of me chasing down Richard Burn's personal record run on this stage... http://www.vimeo.com/2408665

Extra points for the plywood TB spacer!

I hope to be looking at that ugly car in my garage in about 12 months from now.

They salted my roads this weekend after a dusting of snow. The town employees trying to squeeze in some OT. Now the Z is in prison until the next hard rainfall. I resort to research, and video game driving.

Yeah but can you do this? Here is some footage of me driving like I stole it... http://www.vimeo.com/2392766

Without a doubt I keep coming back to this classic. Richard Burns Rally simulator. Hands down the best trainer if you have a force feedback steering wheel for the PC. I think you can pick it up for under $10 these days or download it. Phenominal graphics that were ahead of their time. The physics are dead on. This is NOT a game. Set it up for full realism and you will become a better driver in real life. You can watch the replays over beer and chips...better than the real WRC footage!

The most intense yellow Z I have seen is Joe's (Rags) turbo car...let me see if I can find photos. He says it attracts tons of bugs in the Summer. It reminds me of a Corvette yellow from the 80's. The photos don't do it justice. It's a great color. If you want to know what it looks like in person...just stare at the sun for a few seconds.

Clive=Yard Sale Clive has more stuff spread all over the country than anyone I know....I can't follow all of his projects and vehicles and I see him at least twice a week. He is Mr. Multi-task. I am Mr. Mono-task. Complete opposite. I don't know how he does it, but he does. Clive, good luck with the project, and Joe good luck with the new tenant. I'll vouch for him.

Don't give up Webers! I did and I miss them dearly. I had them on my Alfa Romeo and still hope to build a Tripple L24 some day. Your problem is that you are measuring AFR's! Webers are more of a seat of the pants kind of thing. (tongue in cheek). Keep up the great research! I will need this info someday. Webers "talked" to me. Fuel injection doesn't.

Is it just me or does the L motor have a "VE Valley" in the 3500-4000rpm range? It seems that no matter how much auto tuning I do, I always end up with a low VE zone in that RPM range to keep a proper AF mix. Interestingly enough, I was browsing the tripple weber thread and saw an A/F plot where the Webers have a very rich peak right in that same vicinity. That would make sense since the webers can't "curve" the fuel supply to match the engines low VE in that area. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=958229&postcount=211 Hmmm? One of my typical VE tables: