S130Z

Thanks for all the input! JohnC you have a good point about the weight. The main subject I really wanted to get at was the ability of having two different profiled cams. It would almost be like having 2 motors in one(not power wise, but having 2 power "ranges").

Thanks for the input Paul. Everyone, please feel free to input. We don't really have to get into the cooling and production specs on this because as of now it's pure speculation and theory. And as for the exhaust note for an N/A version......the two slightly different frequencies...(you know where I'm going with this). It may create a "beat frequency", where two similar frequencies cross and create a "vibration" effect.

As I continue to ponder on this idea, I come to think of a turbocharged version. On the torque side of the head, run low boost on a small hot side for a quick spool time. On the HP side of the motor, run high flow/boost and a larger hot side for your top end. Since your two intake manifolds are not connected, this eliminates crossing air flow and pressure from the two turbos. You would also run twice the injectors giving you a greater ability to tune the engine. It's almost like running two completely different cylinder head and intake setups at the same time, just timed differently throughout your RPM's.

So I came up with this idea the other night for a DOHC double cross flow cylinder head(DCFCH:icon45:). My idea was to have a DOHC head where you have an intake and exhaust valve on each side of the cylinder. This could possibly yeild you two advantages. One being to cross the intake valves to create a swirling effect for a more dense charge. The other advantage would be having two intake manifolds. You can potentially have a different sized runner on each side, one for torque and one side for HP. And sice you would have an intake and exhaust valve per side, you can have two different cam profiles. One profle for torque and one profile for HP. The throttling would need to be different per manifold also. The torque side manifold would need to open first and then have them both open in your upper RPM's. (Here is my paint picture I drew as a reference)

The 240sx TPS is a POT(potentiometer) and it gives out a resistance signal as it sweeps through the motions, instead of switching between closed, open, and WOT. If the 240sx will fit, use it.

Try this link https://wwwapps.ups.com/ctc/request?loc=en_US&WT.svl=PNRO_L1

What I usually do is google a wal-mart in the area and use its address for a refernce.

I'll through in my setup that I just installed last week. I am running a 83ZX N/A 5 speed with stock collar. Running a SPEC Lighweight flywheel with a clutchmasters 240mm stage 3 clutch kit with through out bearing from kit. I am also running my stock N/A slave. I adjusted the master cylinder rod at the pedal and I am all gravy and it shifts fine.

Well I am selling my manifold with my adapter welded to it if you want one for a good price. I'll let it go for $50 because it leaks from #1 and #2 and needs to be resurfaced. It also does not fit as well as I needed it in my ZX. They fit fine in the S30 though. PM me if you want it. I called my machine shop and they quoted me $55 to get it resurfaced.

I need a turbo exhaust manifold because mine seems to leak at the #2 port. And if it has all 4 studs in it, that is a plus! PM me or call me at 662-630-0879 Thanks, Adam Silver

I figured it out guys. My shielded wire from MS was grounding out the voltage signal because the shielding was touching my soldered point. I hope this helps anyone in the future.

So after searching high and low, and trying multiple combinations of wiring, I am at a total loss. I am running MS II 3.57 with the coil driver installed. I am running the stock turbo ignition with MSD Blaster Coil(if that makes a difference). My problem is I am getting no tach signal to MS or my tach. I have my factory wiring harness in my 83 ZX removed. As I read, you must connect the blue wire comming from the coil back to the resistor inside the cab. I have done this and got no signal. Any help is greatly appreciated. Adam Silver

I had the adapter welded to the manifold. The adapter was actually cast steel if I remember correctly.

I would go with steel. I have a cast steel adapter and the fabricator said it welded in great.

Those clever admins struck again, I swear there were a few more posts there! Well I guess we better get back on topic so nothing else gets deleted. So who supervises the admins?

I also went this route. I took mine to a cast iron specialist to have it welded. I would strongly recomend not using this for a S130, I had major steering shaft clearance issuse. I wish I had started off with cutting a hole in the mannifold and having just a wastegate flange and maybe some piping welded on instead of that adapter. Ask Phill, but I think they may not flow enough and might cause some boost creep. I will find this out in about a month after my engine is broken in. If you do stick with it, round the inside edge nice and smooth to get good flow to the exhaust gate. Hope this helps!

Some how I just don't see that being the case. But since I'm no thermodynamics engineer, I could very well be wrong. But say you had a 2"-3" running section between the stock mannifold and the turbo to build velocity, would this yeild better results?

Looks interesting, I don't think I could bring myself to using a 180* bend right before the turbo though.

The one thing that kept me from moving to CA is the rediculous laws. It's my car and I will do what I want with it!

The thing to really look at is how close the numbers are to each other. As long as they are close with one another, it doesnt matter too much on what your numbers are. The best thing to do if you are worried is do a leak down test.

I had a dream about this last night, just can't remember where I found them.

Were they directly under your nose and you failed to look in the obvious places?

I have a 20 minute commute both ways from work and started to realize I have some bad driving habits. I have about 10 minutes of both town and highway driving by the way. My top 3 bad habits are: 1. Changing lanes at the very last moment (as I approach a slower car) on the highway. 2. Failure to use my turn signals. 3. (Worst of all) Drafting behind semi's to get better fuel economy. And I get really close and tend to follow the same semi for about 10 miles. I get close enough where I can barely feel any wind if I put my hand out the window. POST YOUR BAD DRIVING HABITS!!!!

Were they in your peanut butter jar? Give us a hint.....what part were you working on under the car?

Those are the color of my lights now(3000k). I got pulled over for them and was told they are illegal.