BLKMGK

Yup, Supra stuff is expensive no matter what. For that matter Fluidyne is expensive no matter what. Honestly the HOWE unit I used was great and I polished the endtanks VERY easily. I bought one of their universal SBC units - buffed the tanks, and mounted it. Cost was under $200 if I recall.

When considering all of th eblack box add-on alphabet soup doodads stop and look at the about to be released AEM ECU. PnP for the later Supra and I'll be picking one up for about $1390 As for the stock setup being good for 380... Mine dynoed at about 390RWHP with very little done. Others have gotten 450RWHP with better tuning and better mods - the FFCD on my car isn't "ideal" for instance. I went to the track today with the Supra and will post times in another more appropriate area

I used the starter from an LT1 Impala - yuck. It didn't have th epower I wanted and I couldn't get it shimmed right. I ended up going with one of the cheaper mini-starters in Jeg's - AWESOME.

DAMN! I wish I'd seen it the 2nd (3rd?) time around. That kind of scratch would've been tough to get but geez it was worth it!

RHD might actually be a worse swap for this motor IMO. The turbos are on that side as is the DP. Check the pics I sent, maybe that will help. Hope it works out though - this would be WAY cool

(sigh) This came up on SupraForums awhile ago and I didn't bring it here. Read the ENTIRE thread - I stopped reading it a little while ago but until then I'd read it all. Yeah, the guy had some money and his research was pretty much just Car and Driver but... Come on - how many of us can afford to research everything we buy? To have that kind of money he had to either work his ass off for it or come into it via family or luck. Imagine if he was a stockbroker working 50+ hours a week and this was going to be his outlet to blow off steam - think he'd have had time to check up on it? Would any of us? I was screwed like this once. Turbo Performance Center in Glen Burnie Maryland was supposed to rebuild my 5.0 motor and install a turbo kit THEY recomended. Why did I use them? Turbo Magazine featured a few of their cars and they had a rep. NO ONE in my area knew **** about turbos much less turbo V8s - they all wanted to slap a carb on my car So, I take my $3K+ turbo kit, my fairly new car, and my butt several hours up the road to Glen Burnie. FIFTY WEEKS later and about several hundred phone calls later I got my car back. I was charged a zillion bux, I was charged for screwups THEY made when they modified a head gasket (don't ask), my car had some new scratches, and I vowed to never trust a shop so far away I couldn't easily drop in and remove my car. Guys this is a long story but the short of it is that I too got screwed out of what for me was a substantial amount of money by someone who was supposed to be reputable - and is STILL in business. Henessy is no better IMO. He's taking on big jobs, pushing them into the corner of his shop, selling parts off of the cars of his customers for quick cash, and not getting work done on the big ticket customers. Guess what, I saw the same thing with my car - cars came in and out while mine SAT in their showroom being used as a picnic table for lunch!! Ever get your car painted? Ask Pete about that experience or have it done by a shop yourself and watch what happens - you might wind up with something in common with these guys. This guy got screwed. If you read the thread so did a bunch of other people. It's not right if it's $5 or $50K. The only difference is the scale. If you guys don't feel bad because this guy got ripped off then what exactly is the dollar figure you WOULD feel bad about? How about if it were your money? Sure, maybe you wouldn't make a mistake like this with your car but suppose it was someone doing something for you that you weren't familiar with? Say an addition to your house? Maybe a new home? Think about it - there's bound to be a big ticket area where you get screwed or fleeced. Just ask anyone who invested in Enron.... A thief is a thief IMO - I can't believe anyone wouldn't be pissed about a theft from someone else. Thankfully Henessy finally pissed off someone who's willing to take on the problem. Oh and supposedly he's not going to be able to shield his assets with the business - they will be going after HIM and his brandy new home paid for by his customers trust.

McMaster Car (sp?) and other places like that sell bits liek this. I suggest you get the most expensive one in th ehardest alloy. Trust me on this - the rear flanges are a BITCH! My last set was also done at a machine shop - when I did it myself I was slightly off on one stud and pushing the disc over the studs was a bit of a PITA

No one I've heard of has done it. I've seen pics of a car that was for sale on E-Bay. I've got those pics if it would help BTW If you need some measurements I'd also be willing to try and get some - I own a Supra now. The one thing I noticed about the E-Bay car was the turbo manifold looked like nothing I've seen on a Supra. It MIGHT have been the TurboneticsToyomoto cast manifold but I'm not sure. If it would help I can try to look more closely at the pics. The tubular Supra manifolds I've seen don't look quite like the one on that car. Not sure what the story there is - it might have been moved due to the shock tower but I'm not sure. If ya' do this please document it - that sucker will FLY!

Couple of tips I picked up from a friend who welds Mustang tanks... Boil it - this is a BIG must do. 2nd - do NOT just cut a big hole in the tank for the sump Trace out the outline and drill some fairly large holes in the tank, weld the tank OVER the holes. Ta Da - you've just created a baffled sump Cool huh?

YEAH BABY! Twin turbo Supra motor!!!! Heh, on the plus side - the Z engine compartment is pretty straight forward as engine bays go. Some cars have real PITA engine bays. The Z bay has lot's of flat areas and mild curves - not too many crevices IMO. When it came time to do my engine bay I went with flat black Krylon. Cheap, easy to fix up if I scratch it, and it actually looks decent IMO. Whatever you use to paint it the Z bay is easier than many others so I'm sure it'll come out nice P.S. There's a type of paint out there that's supposed to look pretty nice. It has little "paint baloons" in it and it has a sort of spotted look to it when done. Anyone recall what this stuff is called? I could swear we talked about it once before...

A friend is building mine - the instructions were a bit far from the "Heathkit" type He's bitched a bit about the instructions and the design some too. They're selling completed heaters and displays now though so if mine doesn't come out as well as I'd hoped I'll buy that from them and compare with mine to see what's not right (lol). Their prices are pretty good too - the display and controller together are less than the FJO heater alone... P.S. It's not a wide band EGT - it's a wide band O2 sensor. It actually reads the A/F ratio for you on a digital readout. Should be VERY accurate and faster than an EGT. <-LOL!

Holley just released one I think - BIG BUX!

Use them for tuning not for absolute HP numbers. SportCompact had a writeup recently (as I recall) where one of their staffers tried a Mustang and a DynoJet (2 of them) nearly back to back. The results were more torque on one of them with the rest being VERY close. Just goto the same dyno and use that for comparing mods along with any track time you can get. Supra folks tend to spend lot's of time on dynos and recommend race gas due to the lower cooling found on a stationary dyno. They've also found that the added resistance while driving on the street allows for better boost response. Hard to explain but while a dyno gives nice numbers and makes tuning easier it's not the only way to go....

See my response to this SAME posting elsewhere. This is th emore approporiate place IMO but I saw that thread first It's really not neccesary to post the same thing in multiple places...

Many EGTs are not "fast". Likewise the narrow band O2 sensors are pretty much junk too. The ApexI electronic EGT is pretty awesome IMO - peakhold, playback, and a warning light w/output. It's cost is less than the $300 you're looking at fromSummitJeg's and in EL it looks AWESOME! However it's NOT super fast - trust me on this. Their EL boost gauge is nice too Can show pics if you owuld like... The Aussie folks have a DIY-WB project going on. They're now selling builttested heater boards for like $90 US. They also sell displays builttested for about the same amount! Lastly, the WB O2 that these things use is sold for $107 and is an OEM Honda part. Can you say WB O2 for about $300?! WOOHOOO!!!!!!

Heh, we need a document someplace telling everyone just how easy it is to go with a GN motor. I hadn't realized that the EFI harness was nearly sepearate but that makes sense since I've found that that's the case for more than one car. IMO the GN drivetrain is awesome for the Z. I also think the 2JZGT drivetrain from a Supra is damned near perfect but probably harder to find. 8.5:1 cr, forged pistons, and a longblock capable of 600+RWHP. I'm in awe! Now if we could just have a member build one and document it. The 7M Supra motor swap also looks good and I'm looking forward ot hearing how that one goes too. So many choices out there! Gotta' love that nice BIG engine bay!

There's an add-on piece for that computer that can make dialing it in easier. Head over to the Chevy Forums that had been mentioned here before and chat with the Holley guy. He will tell you exactly what you need and is a real big help. IMO the Holley computer is an excellent buy and I could yet end up with one if I get cheap. Right now I've not done hardly anything on my car this entire Winter and need to get cracking. Just as soon as the weather gets a little warmer the CVs are goin' IN!

Use the search! Check through the ForSale area too. There's a member who sells braces for cars that run those covers - I've got one! This is a VERY GOOD PIECE! It took a little fiddling for a first timer to get it all put together but it's a quality piece at a reasonable cost. Pics on my site should show it along with the fuel cell. So far as I can tell there's no serious downsides to using this thing...

Hrm, the diff mount often gets replaced with a solid piece because th estock piece seperates too easily as the diff snout tries to go upwards. The solid piece is pushed upwards during the hardest shock, it's not likely to pull out of the sheetmetal unless you do a monster downshift The MSA diff mount I have is made from VERY thick metal - it's not going to fatigue easily IMO. Having said that - I don't see any advantage to solidly mounting the moustache bar. You need some cushion in the system and that's what I'v eleft alone - with urethane bushings though

Nooo.... Don't heat the rubber itself - it will stink you out of the garage! Instead heat the metal surrounding the rubber. When it gets hot enough you'll see little strings of melting rubber begin to squeeze out as the rubber expands. At this point take a socket extension or something and press the bushing right out! Note: this will still smoke some but not nearly as much. If you get small spots of the rubber catching fire blow them out as it will reduce the stink. When it's ready to come out it will come out in one piece easily. Replace with Energy Suspension urethane pieces - I wouldn't reuse the R180 rubber even if you could get it out...

Hrm, I don't much like points but I'm NOT a Datsun "expert". One of my L6 motors has a GM HEI module on it and those are a dime a dozen. I'd suggest looking into using one of those setups - it's got to be more common and reliable than a cobbled Toyota setup. I've never heard of such a thing

That really does look like it fit right in! The shifter thing is a bummer but hopefully that will work out okay. Keep us posted on how it goes - I'm VERY interested in your results with this engine!

I'd worry less about breaking the 2JZ than I would the RBSkyline motor. Motorex can get you RB parts but they're NOT cheap over there from what I can tell. The 2JZ is more common and sure seems bulletproof - heck shortblocks from Toyota are apparently pretty reasonable too. The 7M has it's quirks but they're pretty well known and it can make a bunch of power. I don't think it makes as much as the 2JZ and not as easily but geez how much power do you really need? Certainly read up on these motors on Supraforums - good info there on these...

Friend's shop deals ATI and has had excellent luck with them. Go with an intercooled system no matter what. Vortech claimed for YEARS that intercoolers weren't neccessary and that ATI blowers were simply not effecient. ATI had a standing challenge for a head to head blower dyno contest - Vortech NEVER took them up on it. Oddly enough Vortech and others now offer intercoolers - wonder why that is? All blowers make noise in my experience. Some are louder than others - my P1200 ATI is as loud as the exhaust The newer ones are quieter but are not plumbed into the oiling system which means you must buy their oil. They're supposed to be quieter but they aren't by much. Stay away from Powerdyne - they tend to make low boost and fail. Newer Powerdynes are supposed to be better but... The Paxton Novi series looks good but stay away from ANY of their blowers that use that damned ball drive. The SN93 series - ick! Low boost and cast impellers. ATI uses billet impellers and they are SWEET! Not sure if Vortech has switched to billet yet or not...

Again?! Damn - if he keeps that up I'm going to be forced to buy it! The woman will kill me though I want that car SO badly!!!!