LanceVance

Every marked vehicle will have an identifier number. Write it down and call the department... They might not get fined like us, but it will get back to them one way or the other.

I like the style, just reminds me of Yuta's Z I guess? Just seems like they went with rustiest hood they could find. Guess my idea of 'rat rod' is not fixing cosmetic imperfections while to others it's promoting some imperfection? Didn't mean to come off sarcastic, just making an observation. That being said I look forward to seeing the frame rail work and skid plate fabrication.

Why do all the people who take the time to lower it to that level insist on having super rusty hoods?

Those look like cheap Thai knockoffs. HEREs the real deal... Good luck finding them in the US, importings really the only way.

Strotter, I stumbled upon your thread while trying to figure out a way to consolidate my fuel components and add a surge tank. Your diagram was exactly what I was looking for! Did you ever get around to making your fold down setup, and if so would you be able to show it off for us? Sorry for the necropost, but this seems like something worth bringing up if you've completed it.

Sure the male/male connector isn't your check valve? It's a pretty simple looking part...

CHECK HERE for the do it yourself kits. I'm having mine professionally done as they use the electrostatic method to ensure the entire surface is more uniform and the fibers stand up straighter. I found the place by asking around shops that specialized in custom dashboard and panel wrapping work. Took a while to find the shop, but they do exist!

It might have to do with the size of the car you'r driving in relation the the AI's car. I know I've been punted off the track by a few Mustangs while in something light like a Lotus or the even the 432... Doesn't seem to happen as much with the R35 GTR .

Before anyone makes any association with the 90's Honda/Ricer Fad, please read the ENTIRE post! When I first picked up my Z the cowl panel was off, and the pocket that holds the wiper arm linkage was pretty much full of dried up leaves, brush and crud that had flown in over the years. This being the desert, I was fortunate enough to find that there was only minimal rust in the area, but the wiper linkages and motor were in pretty poor condition. After taking them out for cleaning I decided I would be better off just ditching the dated and neglected stock setup for something a little more... new. That being said, this car will literally NEVER be driven in the rain, and so I'm really only interested in having something that will allow me to pass state inspections. One wiper is all you need to pass inspection here, so any aesthetic/aerodynamic/weight savings advantages or 'JDM Tyteness' are purely incidental . I do think that shaving the vents and the passenger side wiper hole might clean up and modernize the front end a little, but that's another thread! My original plan was to use a junkyard arm-on-motor unit from the rear windscreen of whatever suitable donor vehicle I could find. I quickly realized that was problematic as many vehicle's rear wipers will rest in a vertical position, or cover more than a 45° arc. I've yet to find a vehicle that has a rear wiper that rests horizontally to the ground, only covers a 45° arc and is oriented in the correct direction as to be mounted in the stock driver's side location. I've found THIS company that sells arm-on-motor units for marine applications, which looks like it pretty much fits the bill, but I figured I would ask if anyone in the Z community has done anything similar before I start spending. If anyone knows of a junkyard donor that will work for me, or has any other ideas/advice to give I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in Advance

Just research what others have done, there are plenty of guides for DIY fiberglass projects on the various car forums out there. My advice (mind you this is a beginner talking) is use spray adhesive to lay the cloth down and don't use more matting than you need, as it takes a LOT of sanding to knock smooth. Take it slow and think it through before you start and you'll be fine.

I seem to recall seeing your engine bay in a magazine about a year ago? Very slick looking swap!

+1 for the fiberglass. Dash after stripping stock plastic vinyl and wiring curled foam base back into shape: After filling cracks and various stock holes with foam (A/C vents, cig lighter, glovebox deleted): Using combo of fiber cloth and matting I was able to achieve very smooth and constant contours despite the poor condition of the dash was in originally: It's worth noting that using more or less layers allowed for flexibility in key places and sturdiness in others. I've considered making a recess for a small fire extinguisher where the glovebox originally was. I plan on having the dash flocked locally which will run around $100-$120.00 with quality black nylon fibers. It's stainproof, reduces glare and is simple to clean. Couple this with some modern gauges and you have a very modern and sporty looking dash. HERES a link to a guys build thread showing his flocked 240z dash, pretty dang sharp looking.

Had it yesterday, haven't had time to play it yet. I'll hit you up once I've gone through career mode a ways.

Click Me! Someone posted this on another thread a few days ago. I bookmarked it, thinking it might be useful later on... might have something you can use.

Check here... Pallnet sells a kit, however he is currently out of stock. Sounds like he should have them soon.

+1 for the Hella setup. It's a regular upgrade for Subaru's (the stockers are a little... feminine ) and you can hear lots of clips on YouTube. My stockers are also shot, and I have always planned on picking up two sets, one for the STI, and one for the Z! BLOZ UP, any pictures?

Double posting and posting in the wrong section is against the forum rules and a quick way to get the wrong sort of attention from the admins (who do work hard to keep the forum organized and uncluttered). If your looking to find parts then please post in the parts wanted section. Welcome to the forum, but please read the rules and get familiar with the search function before you start posting.

Looks like a 280zx N/A 5-speed to me... Sure he didn't say it drove like a truck? I won't be home for a few days, but I can crawl under the 620 when I get back and see what that looks like...

I had my intake manifold ported to match the throttle body (I'm using the Weber Big Throat). The oblong portion on the stock manifold had to be filled in before the porting started. Definetly not the cheapest option, but I was getting a lot of work done to the manifold, and most people agree that larger throttle bodies don't add any performance without being port matched... If you don't plan on porting, or using a throttle cable instead of the stock linkage you will definitely need the spacer Nigel posted. Not sure what your running for an ECU, but the 240sx unit has a throttle position sensor, while the stock L series has a throttle position switch. Just another thing to sort out before you put it all together.

David, Looks pretty slick! How's the clearance with the door card on? What are you using to plug the hole that the window crank covered before? Care to post up the part numbers for the kit and accessories you used?

Just able to pick them up cheap, that's all.

+1 (I could live without the turn signal indicators)

Do you still happen to sell the O-ring / Seal kits for Supra injectors that your website used to have? I've got a fuel rail already, but I'm missing various rubber bits, and what I do have is ready to be replaced... Also, I know that most people just use the rail and brackets to hold the injectors in place, but I recall your website having replacement injector holders. Were these only replacements for the stock injectors, or do you have something to fit with the Supra injectors as well?

Metal. This has been covered a few times before, read here.

45° fitting...?