19762802+2

I believe there are a few threads about dealing with that company and not anything good was said. I believe MSA or Blackdragon auto sells them but I'm not sure if they do anymore. Good luck finding one.

Right sorry about that, just didn't seem to click with me. How are your brakes? I've heard that sometimes the booster fails and causes brake fluid to be sucked into the engine. Otherwise I can't really think of what could cause that sort of problem after swapping to manual. I'm in the process of doing the swap from auto to manual myself. Maybe its possible that you have some auto trans fluid still left in the intake? I would think it would burn off quick. Did you do anything else when you swapped trannies?

Idk about that paint scheme on a datsun but I bet you can find lots of hondas with it.

You must be moving along with the build since the last time I was over there. (I bought the brake brackets and something else from you) Good luck on finding the info you need I look forward to seeing it done.

Well if you read that it is possible for it to leak into the manifold have you checked if thats what is happening? I would get some clear vacuum line or something similar and see if you can see any fluid coming through.

I believe they are the same ones that are on Jay28's Z. (the well known grey 2+2) How much did you pay for them? I'm not really a fan of fender mirrors but maybe I will get some for my buddy if he gets this 510 wagon.

I don't believe it turns them manual but it just eliminates the multiple routers in the engine bay. My one concern is if the pressure will be different or the balance between the front and rear will be different. I think there were some threads covering the brake lines and all the little quirks of it unless you already have that all figured out. Plus the front brake line router thingy whatever you want to call it has the sensor that controls the brake light in your speedo in case you weren't aware.

Take your hazard switch off and there should be some small scews on the bottom of it holding it together. I'm betting that yours is corroded like mine was. My hazards would work but it caused my blinkers not to work. The hazards lights are part of the blinker circuit I believe. Try cleaning out the hazard switch and see if that fixes it.

Well if your refering to this car which has the same setup as you just described. I think it's a bad idea, reasons for not stretching tires and dropping a car that low have been beaten to death over and over and I don't feel like explaining why, you can search if you really care but in short its a bad idea and dangerous.

If I remember correctly that was a Custom one of from someone on cardomain.com. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3137867/1975-datsun-260z

Just so you know 16x10's should fill out normal ZG flares and if you go with Wide ZG flares you won't fill them out as much they are designed for 11" and wider wheels. You could run a lower backspacing to fill them out like a 4" and then you will for sure clear all your suspension, but then you will have issues with scrub (search the site for that one) The more backspacing you have the more the wheel will tuck into the wheel well. The less backspacing you have the more it will stick out. Also are you planning on running street tires on the 16x10's? They are hard to find tires for the only tires I know of that are street tires 16's that wide are 265/45/16 Kumhos and those are pretty much DOT track tires. You could get some 15's and run some 275 DOT drag radials but thats another thing. Anyways good luck with figuring everything out.

I believe this is a build thread not a for sale thread.

If you have a Square one of those metal L-Shaped rulers basically, Place one edge on the flat surface of the hub and measure from the hub to the closest suspension parts such as the strut, TC rod and Sway bar. Figure out an average between then compensate for the suspension being compressed etc. and that should be about how much backspacing you can run. Make sure you account for when the wheel is turned as well. On a stock Z you have to run 4.5" of backspacing to clear the strut, I'm guessing with coilovers you should be able to run maybe 5" or 6" of backspacing. Also are you trying to get the wheels to fit under the stock fenders or are you going to be using flares?

What do you mean by Cylinder head temp sensor? are you talking about the connector by the 5th and 6th spark plug? If thats what your using for your Head temp thats actually a Knock sensor and won't work as a Temp sensor at all. It also sounds like your charging system isn't work right and if that is out of order your Voltage won't be high enough and it will cause your EFI to act up. EFI is really specific with the voltage it gets, If its too low it won't run correctly and the car will sputter and die. It's possible your battery is bad and isn't charging up so that would be a good thing to get tested. Since you got a new alternator and it seems its still not working 100% correctly its possible that your Voltage regulator went out as well unless you did the 280zx internal regulated Alternator Swap. As for the Charging light coming on I can't say much about that as I don't really know but it seems you have an issue with wiring or something else. Your ebrake light is probably flickering because the connector under the carpet on the passenger side for your ebrake is probably coming loose or the little sensor is broke. The light is also connected to your brake line router near the brake master under the washer fluid reservoir.

Stock 280z's didn't come with a LSD they came with a Open R200, You can get a R200 LSD from a Turbo 300zx I think, Just search for confirmation of what diff out of which car you need and what parts you will need as well. There are a few options of what you can do with the Diff you can swap a LSD into a R200 diff and use the stock halfshafts making it easier to bolt in but the halfshafts are weaker then if you upgraded to CV's or another axle option.

Maybe that is the Intake that was originally on 1FastZ's RHD Fairlady NAPS. Does it have the twin butterfly throttle body? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/32764-naps-l28-intake-manifold-with-twin-butterfly-tb/ There was a thread a while back where TonyD and some others were discussing some cool mods or quirks of that Intake.

I don't believe so I will go check but just to make sure we are talking about the same connector, you mean the yellow-ish one that is a 90 degree bend that if you looked straight down at the connectors it would look like a corner to a square or a L? Also what year is your Z (I'm guessing its a later fuel injected Z by the EFI relay) and is it an automatic or manual?

Put a seat on top of it and build a frame and wheels around it and grow a mullet. Kind of like this.

The cylindrical relay is for your flashers or your turn signals can't remember which but both can interchange it should have a little yellow-ish 90 degree bend connector connected to it, The larger rectangular relay is your EFI relay you should have to blocks coming from your ECU harness to plug into that. Also the one stray bullet connector I believe goes to a little assembly right by where you bolt the steering column onto. I believe it is for the light dimmer or some buzzer. I don't have it plugged in I believe and its fine. Hopefully someone else can shed some light on that as well.

I have a drivers side as well, an Original metal one as well not one of the later plastic reproductions.

Well Diamond racing wheels makes Steel wheels for pretty cheap and you can get custom offsets etc. but they are a bit heavy. The prices on their site aren't updated but Crazyoctopus ordered some 15x10's and paid 515 shipped to his door for all 4. Not a lot of companies make 16x10's anymore because of tire selection isn't the greatest either a 16x9 or 9.5 wheel would be ideal but those are hard to find and Diamond racing only makes 8" and 10" nothing in between. There is CCW but I believe their wheels are pricey as well but there are a few people running their wheels and they look pretty nice. Maybe you could get some Centerline wheels made as well? you might have to call them as I can't remember if there was a large selection on their site. Looks like Kodiak is still around as well. http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/

Image wheels makes some different styles in that size but they are pricey.

I believe he is wanting them because of the brand not the color, I haven't heard of any Yellow springs around but I do agree it would be easier to get a newer set of springs then trying to find some older ones of a different brand.

You could make a heck of a profit if you fixed it up a bit turned it around and sold it, depending on the market there but that is a awesome deal. Aren't you planning to keep it around anyways?

I have some tokicos springs on my 2+2 and it sits lower in the front then in the rear. It's possible that if you swap the springs front to rear it may change the stance. Are you sure you have the 2+2 springs as well? Maybe you have the coupe springs and that is causing a problem. Beautiful 2+2 your's has been an inspiration for mine for a while and good luck figuring it out.