jacky4566

You can fit anything under that hood. Seen some V10s even. Biggest problem is the sump location. So just make sure you measure it all out.

WHY ARE YOU YELLING! If you have a fuel regulator they usually have a test port.

Neat! Ya i would also ask what material. PLA does not have the same heat tolerance as ABS. In a covered environment you shouldn't need to worry about UV too much so thats good. Also, be sure to check out mu writeup for the Jeep CAS sensor if anyone else wants a CAS.

Doesnt look that hard to me. Just graft the chassis onto a truck chassis But really. The chassis is just not setup for it. Biggest issue is the frame rails are right in the way. It just wasn't built for it. Still going sub. Good luck!

Good luck! You might be able to fit a 4BT but diesels are BIG heavy engines. I have also dreamed of a diesel classic but I was going to use an old caddy or dodge. Your going to have a harder time than me an my dream for a V12! You might be better off with a late 260/280. They use thicker gauge steel and will handle the torque better. Also a heavy engine is going to destroy the weight distribution and require some front suspension upgrades.

Bump. I totally forgot about my Aliexpress account. This was their reply way back 2016-07-30.

Search is on the left hand side bud Each has thier place. Facebook is good for quick noob answer, What size is this bolt.. How do i blank...what is X... While HybridZ is better for in depth discussion. Tutorials and engineering discussions.

Base maps aren't really needed anymore. Use the VE generator to get a start and then VEAL to get a 95% map.

I don't really understand your question here? If your looking for a speed sender i'm quite sure the GM style electrons sender will screw onto the early nissan transmissions. This is what you want.

Welcome to the Forum. Ztherapy.com is your place for SU carbs. Idk where you are but JimZ in Calgary is your man if you need help or parts. Jim Karst z240@shaw.ca

Still here. Facebook is good but the forum has its place for long term documentation of how to do shit.

The bolts are in single shear here. The load is between the diff and the mounting plate. The cover isnt providing any load bearing capacity. None the less I don't see any structural problem with this setup. Should be plenty strong. The double end seal under twisting and bending forces will be trickier. Spitsnaugle I know its more work but maybe you want to have the machined put in a grove on both seals to hold more RTV, or even get a custom gasket made / "Cut your own" gasket.

So what was the price of the kit?

Did a little bit of looking at the Merc M120. It certainly acoustically sounds better than the Toyota but has the same problems. Its a front sump with the pump under the engine. Also there is no easy/documented manual swaps. Not sure where to source that engine, they appear more rarely than the GZ. Also, Merc parts $$$ :/ Ill add it to my list for further research.

Yea the problem with that grannyknot is the pump is also mounted in the pan :/ See this image. But i also dont have one of these engines yet so ive yet to know the final fitment.

For the past 2 years i have had this idea stuck in my head that my Z needs a V12. Not for power reasons, just for the glory of stuffing 48 valves under that hood. The engine bay is so huge that V8's just look out of place, plus I find that everyone does v8. How many people can say they have a V12 right? So in researching the project I came across the Toyota 1GZ-fe found in the JDM Century. The thing pumps out 350hp and can be had for less than $5000. Toyota 1GZ +Flat torque curve and 350hp out of the box. 10.5:1 compression! +Can bolt up to the CD009 6spd manual with a simple 1UZ adapter +Megasquirt will run v12 sequential with an additional driver board. Successful cases of this engine can be seen on the MS extra forum. +The heads and short block appear to be very similar to the JZ and UZ families which will be helpful with parts, shims and bearings. Might even be able to run some JZ cams. +Only has basic intake VVTL-i which makes tuning easy. --Its a front sump. Pump under engine.... I will need to either research how to make a poor mans dry sump or move the steering rack? This is my biggest stopping point right now. --Service manual is only available in Japanese. --Could possible need custom manifolds to clear. Untested. --Engine mounts. Certainly need custom. --Intake system is ugly and tuned for a limousine. Will certainly be building some ITB's --Chassis reinforcement? Mercedes M120 V12 +Sounds the best +More displacement/ power than GZ --Its a front sump. Pump under engine. --No easy manual swaps Related links for myself and others: http://www.lextreme.com/V12.html Similar 1GZFE V12 MX41 Toyota build MA61 with 1GZ-Fe swap Rough engine dimensions So on a scale of 1 to crazy? If anyone has more research to add please let me know.

So many questions... Ok first. If you want to stick with the stock ECU here is your new bible: http://datsunforum.com/datsun-fuel-injection-bible-200sx-280z-280zx-810/ Second. The stock ecu was never meant to run 440cc injectors so unless you know how to tune the Z31 ECU I would stay away from that mashup. Third. How are you measuring 0psi fuel. its not possible to run with 0 psi so something is wrong.

Recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer: AKEBONO 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. ATE 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. BREMBO GRAN TURISMO In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times. HAWK After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Going back to your Turbo selection. Have you used the Borg Match-Bot? Even if your not going to use their turbos its probably the best calculator on the net. http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/matchbot/index.html

Just say no to LS haha. If you want V8 then do a 1UZ/3UZ swap and keep it Japanese. Around here you can get the in the junkyard cheap. Slap on a CD009 transmission and your golden.

Bumping this thread a bit but I wanted to add. For people with older Current sensing tachs and 6x coilpacks you can simply pull the power from the old distributor terminal. The tach will sense the current draw on the COPs. Worked fine for my toyota 1zz coils. I learned this of course after i had already wired them all on a separate line haha.

Jon from Full Race got me the answer. So FYI -max EGT for the EFR turbos is 950C -max turbine speed is rated in terms of "tip speed" and 560/ms. The specific RPM that 560m/s tip speed occurs depends on the diameter of the specific compressor wheel in question. -oil pressure is regulated by the built in oil control orifice. Pressure range is stated as 30-100psi. we've had motorcycle and ATV customer engines at 15-20psi oil pressure and no issue surprisingly. -bearings are m50 races with ceramic balls in aluminum cages (silver plated). Dimensional Tolerances are considered BW proprietary information and not shared outside of their internal engineering center. -most of the EFR compressor wheels have 14 blades which corresponds to 2917 Hz (except the 6758 which uses a 12 blade wheel)

Using Rotella T6 5-40. Good stuff but the detergents are so strong i actually developed new leaks in the old engine.

Looking into this for a different swap with a large front sump. Aren't the steering knuckles symmetrical and thus reversible? At least the AZC ones are. Just swap left and right. I think the trickier part would be mounting the rack on the other side of the member.

tatertoph they are high impedance modern EV14 injectors. The nice thing is they have a very low dead time so no problems with idle. You could probably go twice as big and still idle just fine. I'm not sure what you mean by "work in a stock na l28?". The stock ECU is ONLY built to work in a stock environment (sensors, idlers, pumps, etc). Soon as you start to tinker with it your going to have problems for sure. Unless you mean "work" as in perform? With a megasquirt they are great! I purposefully picked over sized modern injectors so i could run N/a for now and there would be no fulling problems when i upgrade to turbo. Currently i max the injectors out around 26% so plenty of power to go.