Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


cgsheen last won the day on September 3 2020

cgsheen had the most liked content!

About cgsheen

  • Birthday 10/07/1951

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

cgsheen's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Practically everyone in here in the Phoenix area with a 240Z has swapped out their L24 for an L28. They just strip off the EFI and use their round top SU's. Easy HP bump. Every stock 280Z I've seen has been EFI.
  2. (here I go again...) AND - there is NO reason to tighten either the drain OR fill plug on either the diff or transmission tightly! THERE IS NO PRESSUE INSIDE. Use teflon tape on the threads (3 or 4 wraps). Install the plugs snuggly (I sure as hell would NOT go 25 ft/lbs - not necessary) - ONLY TIGHT ENOUGH TO STOP LEAKAGE (of a viscous fluid that's not pressurized...). Hope that past installation hasn't damaged the cover plate threads. Next time you'll remove and reinstall these plugs without any drama.
  3. Huh? The 260Z dash design is what they carried through to the 280Z. There are major differences.
  4. Yup, don't use Turbo injectors with a stock NA ECU. (unless you've figured a way to retune that ECU...)
  5. Good luck with that... When you get yours in, send me a picture. I'll send you a picture of mine.
  6. You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)). Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.
  7. I think my trigger angle is about what you ended up with. The ECU needs to know TDC is coming BEFORE it actually happens and not just because we set our plugs to fire before TDC. It also needs time to make the calculations before the events are to happen. Like stated above the important part is not necessarily the trigger angle (as long as there's plenty of time before the event is to happen) but that the actual mechanical timing is the same as the reported timing from the ECU in TunerStudio. I don't think you need to worry as we have set up MS2 and MS3(X) boxes to run on both single coil and COP setups on l-series engines without issue in that regard. I think the trigger angle on one single coil N/A 280ZX L28E was in the 240-ish degree range. (if you think of it this way: 285 degrees is 75 degrees before the "event" if TDC is 360 degrees (or the same as 0 degrees in a 360 degree circle). 75 degrees gives the ECU time to calculate and still fire the plug before TDC even if the timing advance is 37 or more degrees.) I think DYIAutotune is pretty careful to state that 345 degrees is a starting point although I too wish they would change that figure - (and it might be based on what someone else told them and not actual experience) - but they do specifically tell you to set the trigger angle such that the timing reported by the ECU matches the engine timing shown when using a timing light. Another point you might consider. Make sure that the timing marks on your crank pulley actually match the true engine position. Verify compression stroke TDC. Easiest way is with a piston stop.
  8. I really can't tell from either of your pictures. The mirror base should be centered in the "valley" just below the window trim and just above that final bend in the door skin (the bend that follows the front fender top curve and continues the full length of the car over the wheels on the quarter - the classic "Z shape" body line).
  9. Did the supplier tell you exactly how to connect the new harness to your existing harness(es) wiring? Megasquirt in an S30 is never "Plug and Play". The wiring to the GM coils and/or number of wires used has nothing to do with the CAS wiring. The CAS supplies a "tach" input to the ECU - it just supplies the ECU with the engine speed. BUT, until the ECU "knows" the engine is indeed turning, it can't do anything - so the CAS input is critical. This signal is displayed in you tuner studio gauges EVEN IF the engine is not running. When the engine is cranking, IF the turner studio gauge RPM is showing engine rotation, THEN it IS receiving the CAS signal or "tach input". That's where that virtual gauge gets it's information - from the CAS. The GM coils do need power at ignition on. Normally it's supplied through an EFI relay. Using Tuner Studio, you can test each coil for proper operation (and sequence) BEFORE you start the engine. It's part of the recommended start-up procedure which is in the "Setting Up" manual. I understand that you've already seen this setup work on the demo engine - but, that was on the demo engine not yours... I'm more interested in HOW you connected the supplied harness to your 280Z.
  10. Three pin connector on each side. Should have a Black, Green/Black, Green/White wire. It's the Green/White wire.
  11. Ya, I don't understand why he's wired the coil and electronic ignition module always hot. The stock B/W delivers battery voltage to the coil at ignition ON. Connecting the red from the electronic ignition module to the coil "+" provides power to the module at ignition ON. You don't need more than that. But. I also don't understand why wiring it that way would cause your fuel pump to run...
  12. Here in the U.S. the 1984-1988 300ZX (Z31) with factory A/C used a Hitachi MJS170 compressor. The 1989 Factory Service Manual lists a model DKS-16H (Diesel-Kiki make). You can get the Factory Service Manuals for the U.S. model Z31 at nicoclub.com...
  • Create New...