Savage42

I've had the 6 pound lithium in my 2008 G37S coupe for 5 years now and put 95k miles on it during that time, still going strong. Have one in my 280Z with LS6 for 3 years, all good and I know Phantom (Bill Davis) has one in his LS1 powered 280Z for several years, as well. Many 510s & Z cars (S30 up to Z34) are running them. As is the case with any vehicle that isn't driven at least a few times a week, you want to keep a charger on it to keep the parasitic draw from discharging the battery and "cycling" it because ALL batteries will last longer if kept at or near 100% state of charge, so regular driving or kept on a charger are the best solutions if there is a draw. The other benefit with a Braille lithium is they don't self-discharge like lead, so if disconnected at the terminals or via a disconnect switch (like most race cars), the battery can sit for a year or two and still be at 80-90% state of charge, where a lead battery will be dead by then. The right size/model and proper maintenance is key to long life, but where a smaller AGM battery will average 3 years (more depending on several factors), a lithium battery will last 10-15 years. Other factors are goals & budget (size, weight savings, more power, longer lasting, better performing, etc.) as to which AGM or lithium battery is best for a given vehicle and how it is used.

The opening in the housing just needs to be enlarged. I put the squirrel cage on top of the opening and used a scribe to trace out how much it needed to be opened and used a grinder to just removed the little amount of material so it would slide in. That was it.

Poly and solid mounts are what I call "vibration enhancers", which is great when trying to find an annoying buzz or rattle (since it makes them REALLY bad & you can finally get rid of it), but for anything other than a race car, I stick with rubber, as well.

Should be fine. Any modern “smart charger” designed for AGM batteries is good.

I would second everything said in the previous post. You must enlarge the hole for the Kia cage to fit and the electrical connector on my ‘78 280Z worked fine, as well.

Depends on Group size, but typically.... Red Top - 38 lbs.....Yellow Top - 50 lbs.....Braille GU1R - 6.4 pounds and last MUCH longer!

LS6 / 4L60E in my '78 280Z

2 x Large short sleeve in New Silver Zip 34238

It's funny how we both used the same stretch of road in our videos!

I posted pics of the setup in a previous post (above), but here is a video inside the car (pretty quiet with the whole car having dynamat on entire floor from firewall to tail light panel) and an external video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buv8BZUvj3c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heKu1qdrbzg It is quite and sounds good for only have a single stainless Magnaflow muffler with dual 2.5" inlet and single 3" outlet.

The function and feel of my brakes is fine, just done like having the fluid messing up the paint in my engine compartment. Anyway, it wasn't enough for me to even notice, aside from being wet under the MC.

Unfortunately, I did not. It took some driving and hammering the brakes to notice the small amount of fluid leaking from between the MC & booster. I called Wilwood and am getting it sorted out with a new rebuild kit.

Looks like mine is leaking, too. Crazy that so many have that problem.

I have the F-body pan and added the Improved Racing (hinged) baffles and the crank scraper. Should be good to go and clearance isn't bad since I didn't slam my car.

I don't have a shot while on the rack, but this may help. I copied a friend's car that has an old school SBC with the same piping & muffler and it sounded good, as well. Not the prettiest, but functional and didn't cost me a fortune.