Savage42

The only thing to keep in mind is that the headers from JCI have the 1 5/8" primaries, where the JTR have the larger 1 3/4".

The recommended pump for the LS1 is the Walbro 255. GM recommends a constant 58 psi under all conditions.

If I'm correct, Sanderson makes them specifically for JTR and do not sell the LS1 Z headers themselves. I looked around, but ended up buying them from JTR. At least there are headers you can easily buy, as I was looking to have some custom headers built, but they would cost $800-1000. Hope that helps.

You are spot on, Jon! My buddy, Kelvin, put the CVs on his VG powered 510 and it made a huge difference in getting rid of that dang acceleration vibration that is typical in the lower dimes. He sold the car several years ago and it's currently back on the market. Just about one of the nicest 510s out there, especially as a driver. (V6 torque, power windows & locks, A/C, and very custom) http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/daytona/180/SpeedeSmurfpage.html

I'll test them out for you. Thanks.

Here's the deal with Optima batteries, according to my buddy who is the head of batteries for Johnson Controls. I had awesome luck with my red top Optima, which is in my buddy's 510 and he swaps it out when he runs it in his Datsun Roadster. That battery is over 10 years old and still works great. It has been totally drained flat many times and ways charges back up and works just fine. Now, here's where things went bad. My friend at JC said that when they acquired Optima, they saw that they build the Optima with at least twice the cell materials really needed, so they cut back materials to what they figured was the minimum needed and called it good. Hence, quality of the batteries was dramatically reduced and we've seen a few bad red top come through the shop. I hope my yellow top is still good once I put it into my car, as it has been sitting for 2 years. I put the charger on it, but ya never know. I've had several friends use the Odyssey batteries with good luck. Guess it's a "luck of the draw" deal these days.

I can use a few. Let me know.

I've always like the Bob Sharp scheme.

I've always like the Bob Sharp scheme.

There is no reason not to go with the LQ4, as it is pretty cheap for the complete pullout next to the comparable LS1 setup. It does have the iron block, so there is a weight penalty, but nothing too dramatic. Here is an LQ4 going into a 240Z. The block was painted with "chrome in a can" and the pic has the stock oil pan on it and the F-body pan is at least 2"+ more shallow, so it would hang down WAY too much to use on a Z.

I talked at length with guys at Brembo and Wilwood about the different designs. Bottom line is that slots are a good thing, as mentioned before, that it lets the hot gas between the pad and rotor escape and helps keep the pad surface clean, helping increase braking and cutting down on brake fade. Cross drilling is only done for looks, as people pay to have them that way, even though they dojn't add anything over slots. In extreme cases, they stress crack around the holes and can cause premature rotor failure. (in their own words) So, I went with the GT slotted rotors with my Wilwood setup and most of the race cars I've driven are only slotted. I've run all my cars hard for over 15 years of autocross, hillclimbs and track days and have had great results with just slotted. Just my .46 cents.

The JTR radiator will work, but only JCI (Johns Cars) makes the engine & trans mounts for that configuration.

There are a few reasons I'd go with the LS1....more torque from idle to redline, ease of finding parts and it sounds bad ass. Enough said!

Grumpy has it right......that is all about torque, not HP. The difference with a V8 car is that you get that feeling at almost any rpm, where the smaller motor cars have a much narrower powerband and typically less torque. Torque is king!

Total crappola!!

You can loosen the 10mm bleeder screw on the clutch slave and make sure there is fluid in the clutch master and pump away. You can gravity bleed it and the fluid will usually just continue to drip until it's empty, just make sure you get any & all air out. So, if it does "nothing" when you push the clutch pedal, then the master is probably bad. If you see the clutch slave moving the rod and the throw out bearing fork and there is still "nothing", then the pressure plate/disk/flywheel are all probably rusted together. Sometimes you can start it in gear with the clutch pedal pressed and get them to break free....sometimes not.

Well, that's a perfect example of why you start up and drive a car at least a few times a year, so you don't have to end up replacing all that stuff. Typical problems, non really that major. As for the clutch, no adjustment as per my first post. If it bled out and doesn't work, then it either wore out or maybe the disk is stuck to the flywheel, throw out bearing sleeve might be sticking to the shaft, throwout bearing might be frozen. Good luck!

What model car is it? If it's a Z, then it is hydraulic and self adjusting. You can get rid of play in the pedal by adjusting the rod, but that in itself is not a "clutch adjustment". If your pedal engagement is at the top of the pedal travel, you clutch is about worn out. If you have to push it to the floor and it releases just as you let off, you probably need to bleed the system (black fluid in the reservior?) or you may have a clutch master going out. Hope that helps.

Here's another one.

I hear that! I know my VG30ET powered 510 had really good power for the 3-4 months when the average temp here in Oregon is in the 40s, nice cool air and a frosty intercooler! Traction impaired, for sure. I typically saw at least a 5% difference in SAE numbers vs real numbers on a cooler day. I've always been about "everyday" HP numbers on cars. I mean, let's say I see a car pull out of a gas station and stop at a light and I want to race. It's at that point when I like to know what kind of power that guy has on pump gas. Of course, maybe most of those turbo guys run race fuel all the time, so they have max power on tap all the time. I don't think all do, but..... Am I the only one that thinks that way?