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A little more clearance wouldn't hurt, but I think that's fine if it never gets any closer. You'll have to periodically check that the line hasn't sagged or moved due to being under load and things expanding due to heat. What did you bend? The fitting?

Close is one thing, but resting directly on the header isn't good. What's the line routing look like from factory? Does the header manufacturer have any pictures of it installed on an engine that you could use to figure out where they intended the drain to go?

A single page is easy to do by just downloading the html from the menu. Doing the whole site you need to use some tools that will go through the whole directory and do each page individually for you. I haven't done it yet, so I haven't worked through it fully. If/when I do, I'll make a post so others can do the same.

Yeah the broken thread links stink. The pictures might be even worse. I always upload my photos to the site rather than link to a hosting service. Threads that are 20 years old still work great if the poster did that.

Whenever I answer something on Facebook that has been discussed thoroughly or answered on here, I try to provide a link and mention the name of the site. Maybe "brand awareness" will gain us a few users. I don't think it will ever come back, though. Attention spans are too short. I always have hoped that Dan would give a warning before shutting the site down so that I'd have a chance to download it in full. Maybe I should just start doing a backup every few months just in case that doesn't happen. There's too much valuable stuff here to lose it all.

The branding on their cover annoys the hell out of me. Obviously advertising their name is fine, but using up a significant chunk of prime fin area is crazy. It's similar to T3/Apex/others laser cutting their logo into their plate metal parts in the least structurally sound way possible.

Pac_Man hasn't been online in 8 years

I always like seeing your updates on this. It's such a unique project. Please keep posting them.

Ah, I didn't realize they had built-in cable location options on the throttle body. That's convenient. I'm glad it worked out for you.

Thanks! Looks like they did a really good job of getting it tucked in there. I'm tall, so I've just been assuming I'll have to go custom to get something that isn't within reach of my head.

The larger throttle body will definitely make things more sensitive since 75mm is larger than the engine really needs. You have 2.25 the area of the original TB, so you've basically moved all of the previous area change into the first 40% of your pedal travel. You could tune the opening speed by changing the cam on the throttle body, but you'd have to do some work to figure out options that match throttle shaft diameter and what their radius curves look like. You could just go completely custom and get the exact curve you want, but that comes with added work and expense.

The rollbar looks great. Would you mind taking a picture from below to show how close it is to the roof structure?

Metalworks in Eugene, OR is the closest place I have found to you and I (Los Angeles) that has full-car capability. I've only seen good reviews from them. I've seen the stories of weeping and paint being ruined just like you, but it's always "a friend told me he knew a guy" and never any firsthand or even secondhand evidence.

I think PWM control based on intake temp would be the best, but I'm assuming you don't have an intake temp sensor?

It will be interesting to see how the Helmholtz-style resonator changes things.