datsunlover

Well, the S10 V8 swap is ok, but the gas milage will be crap.. and there are a million out there. But the Truck thing is the way to go for cheep insurance.. I drive a 93 Nissan King cab with a V6/auto, and would highly recomend it to your friend. If you can find one with the 5 speed, you'll be suprised how quick they can be. Easy to work on, not to bad for parts, and its basicaly the same 3.0V6 as the 300ZX. With the torsion bars dropped, 2.5"blocks in the rear, and 15X6"rims (205/55/15 tires) my truck was quite fun to rip around in during the summer. Can kill a civic easily, and still get good milage when driving normaly. Just my $.02..

My $.02.... by this point, the bumper shocks are more than likely toast and seized anyway. I'd compress them (if they will move) and put a small bit of weld around them to hold them there. That will move the bumper in, and if you hit something, it will still have a bit of room to move. (the weld will moste likely break from the shock.) I have heard this being done to a lot of vehicles.

Man.. a Rodeo?!?!? Funny... I dono about those, but I had a Trooper II and it SUCKED A$$. There was nothing good about that truck... well, maybe the fact that it was big... I wrote it off when a Honda ran a stop sign in front of me. REALLY killed the honda mind you... but that ugly Bi@tch trooper was messed up good in the front. I was thinking of buying another one just to put a 350 V8 in it. (and lo pro tires/big rims *bling bling* style..heh heh.. talk about 'sleeper'!) Wouldn't look too bad lowered like 6" with shaved bumpers, 16" rims.. and with the gearing for a 4 cyl out back, the thing would go like hell with a V8! Stop light drag races, go crusin with some big ass subs in the back, and still have room to pick up women! heh... I'd get rid of all the 'Izuzu' logos and put 'Range Rover' on it... ok, I know.. this is getting silly.. Id have to put a big wing on the back too!

Could be a toasted AFM... or maybe the TVS (throttle valve switch) is out of order. (People usually call it a -Throttle position sensor- nowadays, but the Datsun maual calls it a TVS...because its NOT a sensor; its actually just two switches...) At idle, it is on the first contact, and after a ceartain amount (%) of throttle, it switches to another. There are two screws hoding it to the throttle body and once loosened, it can be rotated a bit for adjustment. From what I have found, there was a recall of some sort, or a dealer adjustment for these back in 76 I think... . maybe the car your working on missed it? Or possibly the switch is just bad and you'll need a new one. Try adjusting it a bit first though..

Well, I got some 2.5X2.5 square tube (free is soo cool!) and have the car on stands/wood/whatever I could find. (I'm on un-even grass/dirt outside in a portable garage. Yes, it sucks.) I am planing to go straight from the T/C bracket to the rear floor end, than a simple 45* up to the rear frame. I know it wont be 'simple' but it's the best way I can see to do it. I am wondering something though about the front of the frame; Will the bracket/metal be strong enough once I cut the bottom out and slid in the square tube? And once it's all welded together, will it flex at all? All the frame areas in my car apear to still be pretty strong (looks like .085 metal or so.. under a layer of oil/undercoating ) and I am hoping it will be tough after all this work. Im thinking of a V8/other swap for next year, and I want this car to be able to handle some power, and hard driving. Any thoughts?

Just got my 280z up on 4 stands tonite, and I was amazed how rigid the chasis still is.. considering how rusted my whole car is! I had the passenger side on stands (front and rear) and when I jacked up the drivers side front, the whole drivers side went up with no creaks or cracks! I have the doors on mind you, and new floors were put in about 2 years ago. I think the 4 stands will do it. Im not cutting the whole floor out, just the bottom section of the factory 'rail' (just a thin steel u chanel) and sliding in my 2.5" square tube to the T/C mount, then a 45@ up to the rear frame. I'll get some pics soon to put up.

Doesn't the z31 use a proper tps? Or is it a switch type like the 280z/zx system? I would assume the z31 ecu needs the proper signal from all it's sensors to meter fuel...so you'd need the z31 harness and all sensors for it to work properly.. Just out of curiosity, has anyone done this to a 280z? If so, got any write up/instruction on it?

Oh, something I forgot to mention.. you have to pull the 'pinch strip' out first (rubber strip in the middle if the gasket, running all the way around) and then the gasket will have enough give to move/flex to push the sindow out.

Seems to be the same as taking the windshield out of full size chevs (trucks,vans, suberbans) from the 70's to late 80's. You just start at one top corner, and start pushing lightly working from one side to the otherand back until it pops out. It helps if it's the middle of the summer and hot outside though!

Well, I'll have a look through my Haynes manual for my truck. Its a 93 king cab, and has the 3.0L V6. As far as I can tell, its very close to the Z31 engine, and my auto trans has the same feature (no O/D till its warm). Maybe the 'trouble shooting' section will give some info..

Hmm.. lots of little stuf.. clothes, chocolate, some DVD's, Good chunk of coin.. $100 from Mom, $75 from grand parents, $50 from my GIRLFRIENDS grandmother! And $25 Canadian tire gift card from her parents. A little set of tools (ratchets and sockets.. all on one place! oh happy day.. ) Oh ya, and an amazing hand made wooden 280Z car model. My G/F's father has a wood shop and builds wooden models of.. almost anything.. I'll get a few pics up for all to see. He said he can make more if ppl want to buy one. Merry ho ho, and a drunken new years!

If your dizzy is jumping around and not keeping the engine timed properly, I think it would be very difficult to tune the carbs proberly.. I think I'd address the timming/ignition quirks first, then tune the carbs... just my $.02

My thoughts as well... a friend of mine is constantly telling me 'Comon man, you should restore your car to original cause it'll be worth more in the end, and it's a really rare car...' ect, ect.... Well, first of all, I don't have the $$$$$ it takes to properly restore it, and I need to do SOMETHING to it performance wise... I think my 280 looks way better with out the bumpers, a front air dam added, ect. I also have the need to 'go fast' and an engine swap is in my future.. I hope! The 2.8 is a good engine, but not awe inspiring as far as HP and Torque #'s go.. And this way I can drive the car evrywhere and just enjoy it. I think if I had a 10K resto job, I'd be afraid to take it out as much...

Now that is cool...

AAAAAHAHAHAHA HA HA HA HA HA!!!! Yup.. don't need to say anything else... Except ouch maybe... my girl friend just gave me 'the look'...think she's gona smack me now..

Ahh.. wasn't aware Nissan made the sentra SE-r model as far back as 94.. and I am in Canada as well.. so your $3000 is more like $5-6000 to me..

Awesome man! Thanks! That would be really cool if you can do that! I could meet you in Barrie or something (Midland is a bit out of the way if you're going to Port severn..) if you like. Did the courier cost you a lot? Anyway, I'll have to figure out the MS ordering page (its a little confusing..) and get this project going. I'm thinking maybe early January as long as my job holds out.. we're getting into a slow time, and I might get my hours cut back.. but I'll keep you posted. Thanks again man!

Well I'll probly take the 'extras' off your hands.. and my 280 is already an FI motor, so I have the stock fuel pump/tank/injectors. I work in a machine shop so I'll build my own fuel rail and controler box. I also have friends in wrecking yards, so all the GM sensors/ect will be easy to get a hold of. I was curious how long it took to get your kit from the states... I am thinking of ordering one in the new year but want my car running for nex summer... and there is a HUGE list of other things to do on the car to get it road worthy.. Thanks for the reponce though!

In defence of the 80's 200sx, I would say it was HIS car, and probly not all the 200's. My car was amazing for the $500 I paid, and I got over 2 years out of it with NO maininence! (I think I changed brakes once, and tires twice..) As for the smoking, it was probly abused (being a turbo heh heh..) and if it was not fixed/looked after, it would keep having problems.. And a Sentra se-r under $3K?!? I dono..

My girl friend has a 2002 Grand am, and there is a switch for the lights.. but it's kind of pointless: there is a daytime runing light system, and a sensor (of some sort.. ) that turns on the main lights when it gets dark! Not to mention it has ABS, traction control, and air bags. WOO HOO... The ABS is helpfull sometimes (stearing and braking at the same time) but the trac-control sucks. If it detects front wheel spin, it backs off engine rpm's and a pretty yellow light comes on "low-trac" blink blink. First time I saw it, I though it was a IMPORTANT warning light! Almost got in a accident because it took my attention away from the road, AND the system wouldn't let the car move forward as quickly as it would have (albeit, with some wheel spin). This is just another thing to sell the car "fancy brake light is more visible, therefore there is less chance of an accident hiting you from behind" and it adds to the 'over-confidence' of the driver. Every snow storm here, it's always the 4x4/AWD traction controled ABS NEW cars flipped over in the ditch. Too much confidence in the vehicle's safety/capablitys and ppl don't pay as much attention to their suroundings as much.

Yah, thats the body style. The turbo was a 1.8L. They were actually a little more powerful than the 3.0V6 engine I believe.. Mine only had the 2.0 N/A motor (actually, the 'truck' twin plug motor) and it moved really good when you reved it.

I pulled that off one of his posts... 'or something like that'?!?!? My god this guy is a fool.. Actually, my 85 audi turbo had a fan like that, and when it quit working, it caused me all kinds of greif. If the car was hot when I shut it down, it wouldn't start for 30 mins or so till the injector lines had cooled. (Audi's didnt have actuall injectors yet, just a silly Bosh J-tronic (or was it 'L'... I cant remember) with steel braided FI lines going into the intake from.. well, it was kind of like an air flow meter.. weird setup.. Anyway, I think this guy is in for some $h!t if he comes over to theis board.. I hate ppl that 'talk the talk' and just throw around the lingo without knowing a damn thing. Then they get mad when you catch them in a B.S. lie..

Ok.. early to mid 90's Suzuki Swift GT(i?). (also known as Geo metro, Chev sprint, but the Suzuki was the only one that offered the 'gt' and 16V engine) They are a little 2 door with a 16V DOHC 4 cly/5 speed. Factory 'ground effects' kit, not bad looking little things.. Saw one for $2000, needed front brakes. (very cheap for these cars) I have driven one, and they arn't the fastest things.. but are suprisingly quick. Quite light and very rev happy engines. read; Fun and cheep Hmmm.. if you are in the states, look for a pre 86 200sx (Yah, Nissan! )with the V6. Rear drive 2 door hatch back (2+2 actually.. althought eh back seat is a little tight.. ) Its the same as the 300zx 3.0L from those years, but not as pricy as the 300's. I bought my 85 for $500. Its sort of a poor mans Z, but they are awsome cars, and they dont rust as bad a s the 300zx's for some reason.. (?) Oh yes... can't forget the 80's-90's Fox body 'Rust'ang!! Bang for the buck folks.. they are all over the place, and can be had cheep. They rust as any ford, ride rough, and twist a bit.. but wow moma.. they go like stink. Even the beat up $600 rust buckets will smoke the tires, blow a doughnut, hop over the curb and go like a raped ape. And there are LOTS of 4 cyl's out there with good doors, glass, ect (the 2.3 4 cyl sucks, and usually gets killed befor the rest of the car..) for those parking lot dings/mishaps.

That sucks man.. I remember 2 years ago this time of year, I parked my 85' 200sx all by it's lonesome (a space on either side open) and went shopping. Came out 30 mins later, and theres a pickup on my drivers side, and a brand new minivan on the passenger side. The pickup was ok, but the mini van was about 8" from the side of my car. There was also a big dent in my passenger door (from the vans drivers door) that my friend pointed out. Now, it was not a great car, but it bothered me that this PR!K smacked my car none the less.. so I told my friend to get in the car and "make sure you hit that A$$.. I mean.. you know..) WHACK. BIG dent in mini van.... my friend gets in the car. As I reverse out of the spot, I ask my friend "did you drop something when you got in?" he looks at me "uh.. yah I did.." he said.. WHACK oops... another dent in the mini van... I think we got him about 5 times before I backed out of the spot. Gota catch these ppl before they leave the lot..

Hey man, you running/building MS? If so, how much did it cost you to get shipped up here? Did you just buy the 'basic kit' (programed chip, PSB, ect) and get the rest (resistors, caps, ect) localy, or did you order everything from the states? I wana do this MS thing on my 280z.. just trying to figure out a budget for it.. Thanks.