zeeboost

What if you did the mesh but was semi-transparent, so you could see the tail lights behind the screen but they'd be a bit more hidden.

My brother hit something pretty hard and bent one of his wheels to where it's un-repairable. I'm looking for only one wheel with a straight, true runout. They can be discolored bc they will be powdercoated. If the price is right he may buy a pair so he can stock a spare. Let me know what you have, thanks

I'm running a batwing with the wings chopped off and welded flush with the pan. Great ground clearance, I want to say it sits slightly higher than the crossmember. Can have pics this evening if still interested

It doesn't fit. I even have a subtle cowl hood and it still won't clear, looks like I need another almost 2" of clearance. It's just the front of the intake (where throttle body bolts up), everything else fits (with my cowl hood anyways). I'm considering machining down the manifold flange and maybe shimming the engine down, but my oil pan is already pretty low so that'll probably be a last resort.

Don't know if it's been posted here but the legendary Darius video finally has an update. I remember watching that one when I was in high school, and now roughly 12 years later he's still up to the same antics.

Search blueovalz

Thread is a few years old but this guy went way past photoshop for pretty much the same thing you're talking about http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/74326-started-my-mold/page-6

Jackhammer

I took this a few years ago when the car was still in the body shop, but if you can cut pretty straight here's another option...if it's your cup of tea.

Yeah I remember reading it was to protect from condensation / water accumulation on the sensor. I don't know how much can build up inside an exhaust, I'm guessing that depends on humidity and other factors, but I was worried that condensation might build up right after the turbo and run down the bottom of the pipe, possibly catching the sensor. But since it shouldn't pool up where the sensor is then I'll go ahead and install the wideband there to see how it does. Worst case scenario I'm out a lambda sensor and still have to relocate the O2 bung. Thanks for the reply.

I picked up this downpipe from a member here as part of a turbo kit that I purchased. The downpipe looks like it was pretty well made, but the o2 bung is on the bottom side of the pipe, which is the where I've read you're never supposed to install one. The kit that I purchased seems to be well put together as a whole, so I'd rather run this by you guys first just to make sure I'm not missing something before I plug the bung and weld a new one on the top side.

Yeah I'd say $3000 is a good price given they are qualified and don't do a half ass job with it. I paid $1500 for mine used, $1800 for some hack to butcher it, then another $1500 for the third person to undo the butchering and make the proper modifications I initially requested.

Title should read Han is having a z built for him. On the plus side at least the chassis looks like it's being done right...more than what I can say for half of mine for the time being, lol.

If you buy it, take the plugs out and put just a little bit of oil in each cylinder, letting them soak overnight, before taking the breaker bar to the crank. But yeah judging by appearance alone that looks like it could be a nice little gem.

I've thought about this before, but I think it's part of the canvas that the Z has become to me. I like the old school L28 engines along with many other modern engines, which is why I typically build the Z to fit my engine swap. 1970 240z, will have 15x9.5 wheels zg flares and coilovers, BRE front and rear spoilers, completely gutted out and aiming to be under 2000 lbs. It's a modified stock look so I'm keeping it a modified high cr cammed L28 with either triples or ITBs, I figured it would be the super spirit of the original. 1972 240z turbo - Stock body and paint, aftermarket wheels and coilovers, drives and sounds like a stock engine until you mash the pedal. 1975 280z widebody - Full tilt fiberglass front end, 3" cowl hood, shaved everything including door handles and drip rails, molded flares with 315/35/17 555r in the back with 275s in the front, molded 3 piece spoiler, roll cage with no windows / wipers / etc. Only seems fitting to throw in a F1x procharged 370ci / t56 / R230 combo. 1977 280z terminator yz - Going with yz front and rear flares with 4.6 terminator swap (and will do everything I can to make sure blower is sticking out of the hood mad max style), which seemed appropriate for a lowered midnight blue 280yz with deep CCWs powdercoated black. I think the whine of the blower mated with the amazing exhaust note of the 4.6 dohc will fit the car yz like a glove 1982 280zx v8 swap - has some big body modifications that IMO are only merited by the sbc under the hood. I doubt I would enjoy that one if it was still the factory inline 6. 1983 280zxt - Factory turbo but I've always loved the 2jz, hence I added an exotic paint scheme and large exposed fmic so that the 2jz seems to fit the spirit of the car much more than the stock l28et. Out of all the Zs in the stable so far, the 1970 240z seems to get the most positive feedback from people. The only one that I have that seems to be mismatched is my brother's 77 280z 2+2. It has an L28et but an old small block chevy would've been better suited for it...though I doubt the car would've still been in one piece. However he loves the sound of the old turbo L so I guess to him it fits the spirit of the car better.

We've had issues in the past with aftermarket belts being just a hair longer than the OE length, causing that belt slip / speak noise. Use OEM parts. If you have different belt routing other than factory (you mention no ps) then the tensioner might not be compressed enough to adequately do its job with the belt you're using. Also check to make sure your water pump isn't seeping anything onto the belt from the weep hole underneath.

I don't know if MSA still uses the same supplier as before, but my '72 has a half cap at least 12 years old and still looks nearly perfect (also gets the perfect dash compliments). However within the last 2 years I've purchased 3 caps from MSA, 2 half caps and 1 full for an s130, and if I'm not super careful about having a sun reflector in the windshield covering every bit of the cap, they'll warp easily. I never had to worry about this with the '72, so I just figured they switched to a cheaper line and the quality is suffering. Or Texas is just that much hotter than it was 10 years ago.

Back when I still worked at a dealership I was pretty familiar with the road force machine that we had, and found it to be one of the best tools for fixing any tire/wheel vibration...in fact it was mandatory for warranty vibrations (which I did a lot of) since it provided concrete data for me to use in figuring out the source of the vibration and if it was or wasn't fixable. It measures the rim runout, then measures the runout of the tire, plots a diagram of both of their runouts (since they're never perfectly circular) and tells you the best spot to re-index the tire on the wheel, in addition to how many lbs of force the tire runout has. Typically on a small passenger car like these, anything over 18 lbs of force begins to feel excessive. In my experience it didn't matter if the wheels were just slightly off balance or not, the tire runout was the major factor. Sure you want them to be dynamically balanced to zero, but you shouldn't get worked up on that being the only cause. Your tires may also have flat spots on them for sitting so long, and not sure what tires you have but typically cheaper / harder rubber tires don't have the best runout. I'm not sure how the shop did the balance but a static balance with stickies in the center of the wheel is less than ideal. I always had the best results using dynamic balance while placing the weights on the outermost sides of the wheel. I'd recommend finding someone with a road force balance machine, and is experienced using one. At least then you'll have some data on the condition of the tires and wheels, instead of just guessing. Or like was mentioned earlier throw another set of wheels and tires on and see if it goes away or changes.

Center console has an ash tray in the back Different rear quarter emblems I believe Rear windows pop out as vents, coupes do not 2 sets of handles on interior doors Has 240mm clutch and flywheel instead of coupes 225 Rear wheelbase is slightly wider than coupe Better aerodynamics than coupe

Oh gotcha, I saw the picture of the supercharged 4.6 and assumed that's what you were using, thinking you may plan to modify oil pan / engine mounting to drop the engine low enough to clear the hood with the eaton. I've followed yellowoctopus's build so yeah I was reassured the dohc will fit lol. I was planning on cutting mounts off a 2001 mustang gt shell I have and welding them to the Z, but was just curious what you had planned out already. Have you figured out what trans you're using yet?

I bought a set for my brother's '77 2+2 a few years ago from here: http://www.zcarsource.com/weatherstrip-kit-240z-260z-280z_8_56652.html Turned out pretty decent *edit* Just read that the 2+2 weatherstripping is no longer manufactured so they send you coupe stuff with extra pieces to fill in the gaps. Guess I ordered one of the last batches.

Hey you and me both. I'll subscribe to this thread and we'll see who can get theirs on the road first. You have a 6 car head start though, since my list of operations has 6 other projects for me to finish before I get to this one, so I'll let you be the guinea pig, haha. I picked up an aluminator 4.6 32v that has burned valves (imagine that) so after rebuilding it with terminator internals and fixing the heads I'll plan on running the eaton for a while just like your setup. If you get yours running before mine you should post a vid to motivate me through the final stretch of my project list. I don't know what you're doing for the transmission but I currently have an lt1 t56 for mine that I was going to try and adapt to the 4.6. For whatever reason everyone thinks the ford t56 has diamond internals and typically want too much money for them, and I picked up the lt1 t56 for a pretty good price. I already have the ford bellhousing bolted up, and I know a lot of the high hp guys swap the 10 spline over to the 26 spline, which is what comes factory with the lt1 t56, so it has that going for it. What were you planning on for mounts?

More trouble than it's worth. I believe theyre the same height but are just wider than the coupe. Several years ago I bought some coupe tail light housings for a 2+2 not knowing this info, so I may still have them on a shelf since I couldn't use them if you're interested.

I hope to join within a year's time, but for now this is as close as I'll be to the club

Weren't the original molds destroyed in a warehouse fire several years ago? I thought folks copying his kit was the only way to get your hands on one now.