240zdan

Yeah its dirty. She is a daily. Had enough of the chassis mounted diff when I lent the car to my ole man and he brought it back with the diff mount separated from the chassis. Now The diff wont move a mm. My old chassis mount is still there hanging on by a thread unused. LOL. One thing to note is I experience a bit more drivetrain noise in the cabin with this style of mount as well as more clunking noises being transmitted through the cage/body. I am hoping a carbon driveshaft will help. BTW, this was a "quick" solution I whipped up with what I had laying around. Had I been doing a resto I would have done it a bit differently. Same concept but a bit cleaner. The idea though is to transmit those diff forces to the LCA mounts which have plenty of backbone.

I'm runnign a 4.11 GTR diff with z32 trans. Gearing is absolutley spot on for twisty roads and city. A bit embarrasing on the freeway though as cruising in 5th is barely keeping up with trucks and minivans. But she has zero issue winding out 5th in a hurry if needed.

Cradle is the only way to go. I ran square tubing from the front lower control arm subframe to the rear lower control arm dropmounts. I then fabricated diff mount for my short nose r200 from there. Have been regularly beating on the car and havent had an issue since. Do not rely on the s30 "chassis" diff mounts... ever. It doesnt matter how much reinforcing you do, you are still putting all the stress on a flimsy sheetmetal unibody. You need to tie that differential into the rear suspension somehow. Let me know if you'd like apic of my setup, its simple to make and all you need is a welder.

Very nice.

Just curious, what is your oil pressure at redline? I am seeing 65-70 psi on a hot day using 40 weight oil and am worried its a bit low. Its a stock rb26 however.

Installed an aluminium RCI Fuel cell into the car 6 years ago (regret it, dumb mistake for a street car). Anyways, eventually I want to switch back to a stock or camaro ss tank, but in the meantime I'm having some issues with the cell. It came with fuel cell foam sticks and I can't do anything to keep them put. They are always shifting around and rearranging themselves in the tank. Any ideas?

The ball bearing/spool comment was directed at softopz. T04b V trims suck, end of story. Plenty of better options out there that are similarly priced. Take a look at the compressor map for yourself. Softtopz states he can get a deal on a GT3071r and his power goals. Gt3071r wll easly reach his goals. Xnke recommends some garbage turbo which barely anyone uses because of the poor compressor wheel design. He states the GT3071r will be choked when you can clearly see on the compressor map it will not be. Misleading information on forums annoys me. Yes I run pump and daily drive my car, and no my turbo is no where near maxed out.

I am so tempted to make this my new signature with your name attached to it.

Yes, the GT series turbine wheels are what spools them up faster. The ball bearings themselves do not help the turbo spool earlier, but apparentley they do help with recovering boost between shifts. I notice no difference between journal and ball bearing turbos. You are correct by saying the Gt30 is capable. Tons of people running them with fantastic results. Xnke is misinformed and his technical calculations should not lead you to believe that the GT30 will not be efficient at 350hp. It will make that with ease and still have plenty of puff left over.

I am not calculating anything! I have a 500whp dyno chart and 11 second street tire pass you can sign off on. And BTW, I make turbos for a living. So dont try to impress me with words like efficiency, especially when you're suggesting ancient technology V trim turbochargers which I THROW away. OP run a 30r on it and shred some tire. You'll love it. Plenty of people running them on rb25s making well over 350whp on them. If you buy a an old school V trim, the only thing you'll be doing is clearing out old unwanted stock!

PC680 here. Lasted three years before I let it go dead one winter. I put in a new PC680.

A billet wheel will spool no faster than a cast wheel. A billet wheel will shine at higher boost levels. This is the only advantage to a billet wheel. Billet wheels have been used somewhat in the diesel industry mainly for durability.

Jesus. Where did you pull this out of. What makes you think a Ford "stage 3" turbine housing bolts up to what is clearly a R33 Rb25det turbo?!

Ball bearing super duper turbo. Explain: Ball bearing turbos help with transient response and have nothing to do with final power levels. Additionally FYI they do not determine what rpms they spool. The T04b V trim is one of the worst/most inefficient compressor wheels out there, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. The gt3071r will support much more than 290 BHP. In fact the gt2860r will crush those numbers. Check your calculations. GT3571r? I have not heard of such a turbo. Most gt35rs come with an 82mm exducer on the compressor side. Only the 28 and 30 was offered with a 71mm exducer from Garret as far as I know. Your info is all over the map man, its guys like you who have no idea what they are talking about, yet offer advice on sensitive subjects such as turbo selection which make forums BAD. To the OP, stay way from rebuilding your old t3/t4, it probably needs more than its worth if its "laggy". The GT35 is a great turbo and will run 500 hp with ease. The Gt3071R is a nice upgrade for street duty. The 3076 will be about the same with higher peak hp capabilites. A new T3/T04E 50, 57 or 60 trim are all great options if you can find one cheap. Holset HE341s, HE351s, HY35s are also good options. Quick spool, bulletproof, cheap. That would probably be my choice if I was in your situation. All are t3 flanged turbos and will meet your power goals. I have ran both gt30 and gt35 turbos on my car in precision billet flavours. A GTX35r is going on next, trying to push 500whp on pump gas on lowish boost

Thanks for the links.

new shaft with new yokes

So a few years ago when I built my Z I decided to install a "fuel cell". Well filling up the gas through the interior is getting old, and I could never get my fuel level sender to work properly in the "baffled" foam cell. Its time for the fuel cell to eventually go. The issue is, while repainting the car, I decided it would be wise to shave the OEM gas door. I am pretty much set on putting an LS1 plastic tank in the car, unless I find another suitable alternative. Since this part of the forum pertains to bodywork, lets talk about fuel filler caps/neck. What after market fuel filler caps have you seen that caught your interest? The Z has a slight curve where the cap would sit, so I think a recessed mounting would be a must. So far I have been eyeing the Sparco setup along with an ebay one. My car is white, and I don't want the fuel filler to stand out. I have thought about anodizing the pieces black. Other than finding a OEM door and welding her back in, what would you guys consider if you were to rework the fuel fill cap?

So he sums up my post in one sentence and includes spelling and grammar errors. Fair enough.

Im sorry I dont quite understand what you're saying. What is undersized? And what do you mean you guys never made them to be reused. I havent bought any products or services from you.

Well after four years of owning a S30 plagued with drive line vibrations I think Its finally sorted. If you are having vibration issues Read on. Started the ownership by swapping in a rb26 with a z32 trans. Got a custom driveshaft made using Z32 slip yoke and original nissan pinion flange. Both ends had irreplacable peened U joints. I asked the shop if the U joints could be replaced, they said yes. They offered to machine the yokes and install a domestic spicer aftermarket greasable joint. I liked this idea and went with it. I trusted the drive line shop with my drive shaft and paid good money to have them do my work. When I picked up the shaft, I barely bothered to inspect their work because they sounded confident. After getting the swap done the vehicle had vibrations. I started with the driveline angles. Got the motor and diff within .5 degrees and driveshaft operating angle to 2 degrees. Checked side to side angle. Replaced wheel bearings. Replaced wheels and tires. Replaced diff. Replaced halfshafts with R200 GTR CVS. Replaced transmission mount. Installed a r200 gtr diff. Made a sturdy diff mount. Verified all driveline angles about 20 times with various digital angle finders. Converted the drums to disc. The result: Vibrations, vibrations, vibrations starting at 60 mph, getting progressively worse with speed. U joints failing after a few thousand miles. So I turned my attention to the drive shaft and this is what I found. First I put a dial indicator on the shaft to check run out: .025". Not good Next I pulled the shaft out and took a long hard look at the U joint and this is what I found: Picture 1: Retaining ring crushed, bent and no gap. Picture #2 (other side of the u joint): Gap between retaining ring and shoulder approximatley .020. Looking over the other end resulted in the same scenario. Take a long hard look at the retaining ring. For starters, the OEM nissan yokes have a large 45 degree chamfer on them. When the drive shaft shop built my shaft they installed the retaining rings in an acceptable position, but as you can see they rotated and nearly none of the retaining ring is now contacting the shoulder as it should. These yokes CANNOT be used with after market joints safely. The U joint has shifted and the center line of the shafts is off. The only way to use after market U joints is to use after market yokes/slip joints. Do not let any shop tell you otherwise. The U joint must also fit snugly between the tabs with the retaining rings in place, there shoudl be no gaps between the ring and shoulder that would allow the u joint to shift around. Hope this helped.

BTW, thanks for mentioning the chequered flag racing name. Definitely on my to buy list once I break my collection of stock 280z stubs!

$300 is steep. It would take me no more than 1 hour to re-drill someone's stub axles on a CNC mill, blasting them would take about 15 minutes. There is also the issue of not enough material around the holes as someone mentioned. It would be fine for a stock hp Z looking to convert to 5 lug, but has anyone actually put these stubs through abuse? Comparing this to the billet stubs: I would much rather spend an extra $400 on billet stubs I know wont separate. You have to remember a lot of people on here have 3 to 5 times the power of a stock Z. Consider it this way: $300 to re-drill stock stubs VS $740 to buy the material, machine it down, drill the holes, machine the splines, turn the threads, install studs, make sure everything will work like bearings, offer a warranty against breakage etc, etc You get my point.

WOW! $300 to drill 5 holes! What a scam.

I am running the 280z hood and it allows rainwater to drip onto my turbo. Makes for a nice steam show.

Just ordered mine! Will post pics when theyre on.