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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on January 5

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About Ironhead

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  1. Agree about the large hardened washers, as I mentioned. I often wonder why places like to include Allen bolts in locations like this where there is really no need or advantage to them. These are good, grade 12.9 bolts (T3 likes to send weak and gall prone stainless hardware too, sadly), but one main issue here will be vertical clearance and in that regard Allen bolts are no better (maybe worse) than standard head six point bolts. Like I said, I think button heads will be the best approach, although the threads in the blocks are M10/1.25 and button heads in that threading are hard to find (Belmetric has them). IMHO the plates (as opposed to large washers) would be a bit overkill, and having seen the parts I am not as concerned by the connected "T" slot as you are. Keep in mind, that part is 1" thick. It is very rigid. I'm sure after running the car a bit, it will be quite apparent on inspection how the parts are holding up (if I ever get it running).
  2. I am using the "new and improved" front diff mount from T3. Their original one was a flimsy joke, so I had fabbed up a .25" steel plate monstrosity to try to keep my diff from moving around. Well, I am quite happy with these T3 parts and the one I constructed is getting scrapped. I am probably saving at least 15 pounds in the process. Basically this uses billet aluminum pieces to bridge together the front and rear control arm pivot points, and then a third piece of 1" thick billet bolts to these to support the front of the diff. I have read opinions from some that they believed even these new T3 parts are not adequately substantial and rigid to keep the diff from moving around. I am no engineer, but I am quite confident that these new pieces will either rigidly hold the diff in place, or they will break. The fact is 1" thick billet aluminum is not going to flex much. And I seriously doubt they are going to break. The design also eliminates the cantilever effect when using a short nose diff that puts so much stress on many front mount designs. Another plus is that this design is claimed to be compatible with the Ford 8.8" diff, which I probably should have used from the beginning and will be switching to should my R200 prove not up to the task. The only downside to these parts I can see: It significantly encroaches into available space to run exhaust beneath the control arms. I am about 75% certain it is going to interfere with my already constructed exhaust, but I like the design well enough that I am willing to modify the center section of my exhaust to make it fit. I do think I am going to replace the four visible Allen bolts with lower profile button head bolts, and use larger hardened washers under them. This will allow a bit more exhaust clearance and better spread the load on the aluminum parts. Thanks for looking.
  3. I think he's talking about Supertrapp: https://supertrapp.com/shop-products/universal/auto-s-c-elite If you're not familiar with them, they've been around forever....since the 1970s at least. There are a series of baffles at the end of the exhaust pipe. To increase flow/noise you add more baffles, to quiet things down you go with fewer. I know these devices work, but I don't really understand how. It seems like the design would KILL exhaust flow, but somehow it doesn't. They have been used on a lot of racing cars and bikes over the years to take the edge off of a really loud exhaust.
  4. It's funny...I have heard a wide range of opinions about Heim jointed cars. Some say they wear and start "clicking" almost immediately, others say they get thousands of trouble free miles out of them. I guess I'm about to find out, as my project car has a crap load of them. I am interested in the R joints in concept, but I don't understand what makes them superior to standard Heim joints, other than costing 3X as much. They do not appear to be "sealed" from dirt and moisture, and while the metal ball rides on a plastic bearing surface, that is true also of many Heim joints that are Teflon lined. I am also a bit dubious of some of their claims about poly bushings. They repeatedly cited "squeaking" as one of the major faults of poly bushings, but if they are properly lubed with Teflon grease squeaking is a complete non-issue. I have a track car on poly bushings that I greased/installed almost 20 years ago. Not a squeak in 20 years. My point being, hard to separate the truth from BS marketing with the R joints.
  5. I had similar issues as I learned how to weld on mine. The copper backing works great, but in some places isn't really an option. What worked for me was to go pretty hot on the weld, but do it EXTREMELY quickly, like just a split second weld. The short duration helps prevent blowing through and keeps the weld from stacking too high (more to grind off), but the high heat setting still gives good fusion. Like you said, once you have a few solid tacks, it's easy to keep adding more to them. It is also critical IMHO to have a slight gap (1/16" or less) between the two panels being welded. Otherwise, once the weld is ground flat, you will have countless pinholes to be filled. Some recommend TIG for thin sheet metal, but I tried TIG and it was a disaster for me. It is by nature a slower process, and I found controlling the heat to be a nightmare.
  6. The main advantage over the stock motor is just that they are available... But I used the Jeep motor (from a '90s Cherokee IIRC) because the common Honda wiper motor swap was a bad fit for my particular car. I am using a PDM for electrics, which can only switch +12V and the Honda motor is designed to work by switching to ground. The PDM cannot send a ground signal. Yes this could be overcome by using relays and such, but I figured this motor would be easier, simpler, and cleaner. All I did was look at photos of various wiper motors for sale, and chose this one because it used a similar mounting arrangement to the stock motor.
  7. Well, things are moving along. Slowly, but moving.... I got the engine and transmission installed and wired. That all went fairly smoothly. I got the clutch working...but doing so required upping the master cylinder from .75" to .875"....for the clutch to fully release before the pedal hit the firewall. The Jeep wiper motor works and parks the wipers correctly. Not sure there whether I was lucky or good....but it was surprisingly easy. Shifter installed. Driver's door mounted and panel lines sorted (as good as they are going to get). Honestly what has really slowed things down has been trying to route/shield/design all the engine mounts and wiring and hoses and the starter so that they are not burned by the headers. I hope all these heat shield products do what their manufacturers claim, or the car is going up in flames soon after I start it up. Thanks for looking.
  8. If my goal was just to go fast, I should have just taken the money spent on my Z project and bought a Corvette. In terms of speed vs $$$, Corvettes can't be beat. But I hate Corvettes, not even sure why I do. Besides, mainly I wanted to build something.
  9. In a strictly pointy-headed-theorist sort of way, I suppose the 911 is poorly designed.... The 911's racing success proves that in all of motorsport short of the absolute engineering pinnacle (F1), weight distribution is of relatively low importance compared to a myriad of other factors. Committed manufacturer support of a race program is one of them. The most dominant 911 based car was no doubt the 935. I used to watch them during the late '70s and early '80s. Compared to the Dekon Monzas, Greenwood Corvettes, and BMW turbos, the 935 did handle poorly. But while their competition had perhaps 650 HP, the 935s had more like 800 HP. And, their rear engine arrangement enabled them to put the power to the ground very efficiently. They would dawdle through the turns, then take off like rocket sleds in the straights. Couple that with the fact that they were actually built by Porsche rather than some racer in their garage, in general they had a huge reliability advantage. So the 935 won, pretty much everything in their era, weight distribution be damned.
  10. I used to say exactly the same about Harbor Freight... Then they came out with their "Icon" line. "Snap On" quality for 1/4 the price. I have tried them. I hate to say it, but it's true. They are going to completely change the market for pro-level tools worldwide.
  11. Thanks Buddy, good to hear from you. I won't tell anyone you're on a Datsun forum....lol. I don't expect to build another car anytime soon. Too expensive, and TBH I am getting a little tired of it and ready to move on to something else...you know....bingo....feeding the pigeons at the park...pool aerobics. All this car work keeps ruining the velcro straps on my shoes. Besides...I'm sure getting this thing running will be just the beginning of getting it truly "sorted". My "other" car is currently sitting in the garage with a dead battery. I feel a little like I have betrayed it....but this current project has absorbed pretty much all of my interest in turning wrenches. Wow...4 years old. Time flies. That being the case, I'm surprised you even had time to write...much less build a car. You should post some update pics nonetheless.
  12. LOL....I have always heard it as "perfection is the enemy of excellence", basically same meaning I guess. It is one of my favorite expressions, because I have anal-retentive tendencies, and I frequently have to remind myself that perfection is not a realistic goal.
  13. Tognotti's is a surprising place. They have remained successful in a largely mail-order world by actually having a significant amount of inventory in stock. I realize they have a small online business as well, but I am confident that the vast majority of their sales are walk-ins. The place is a time warp for me. I used to go in there in the 1970s when I was a kid (hell, I even remember when the building was a supermarket), and it has not changed at all. It still even smells the same. Most things would change in 50 years, but not Tognotti's.
  14. Well said. I remember reading an arcane discussion many years ago about the suspension work done on a Porsche running in the IMSA GTO series (I realize that dates me horribly). The team felt they knew better than the engineers at Porsche who designed the suspension, and were making a case that the car would be more successful with their modifications. Were they correct? I have no idea, largely because the series was won by a car running a live rear axle.....lol.
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