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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on September 1

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About Ironhead

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    Nor Cal

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  1. It's funny, after I bought my car and was stripping it down, I found some PO had put Dynamat on both sides of the trans tunnel. That stuff was so hard to remove, I find myself scared to use it.
  2. Yeah, I got nothing. That's better prep than I did. Definitely disconcerting.
  3. If you can do pretty welds on the thin Datsun sheet metal, you are a better welder than me. The metal is so damn thin that if you try to completely grind the weld smooth, it is very easy to overly thin the surrounding metal. My approach, at my limited skill level, was to grind the welds down to the point that you can just barely discern a slight raised area, then use perhaps .03" or thereabouts of filler to finish things off. You will probably need at least that much filler to straighten panels anyway.
  4. I don't know what to think of that. I did an adhesion test, where I cut criss crossed lines with a utility knife all the way through the RB and into the base metal, leaving a grid of small roughly 2-3mm squares. Then I burnished on a piece of Gorilla double adhesive duct tape over it, and pulled it off. Nothing, not one little square or even a corner of a square, lifted off. This was on clean, lightly scuffed metal...no rust... What was your substrate?
  5. So far I have to say I have been pretty impressed with Rust Bullet. I am not using it on rusty spots, rather just brushing it into seams and what not where it will be difficult to spray in epoxy. I did a bunch of testing before using it. It dries rock hard in 24 hours, and the adhesion to clean (not rusty) and fairly smooth metal is absolutely unbelievable. It also dries to a slightly "flat" finish so epoxy sticks well to it without scuffing. With a slight scuffing, the epoxy sticks so well to it that it's never coming off... How well it encapsulates and "kills" rust, I cannot say. But it sure seems like it will effectively prevent rust from forming. Best of all, no acid prep or rinsing with water is required.
  6. Project is looking fantastic, great work! I certainly agree with you about Timeserts. The only advantage to Helicoils is availability. I can usually find Helicoils locally whereas Timeserts always have to be mail ordered. But in terms of design and installation, Timeserts are far superior. In designing my front brake caliper brackets, I too wanted to avoid relying on threads tapped in aluminum. I just had them drill through holes to use a nut and bolt to secure the caliper. in the rear that wasn't feasible, so I just had the brackets machined in steel. The weight difference is pretty insignificant on such a small part.
  7. Thanks for the write up. Honest accounts of customer experience with a company are extremely valuable to potential customers. I have been hearing of negative experiences with Apex for quite some time, and it is disappointing. Some of the items they have made are very cool, a few are going on my build. It is just too bad they cannot seem to get the customer service end up to speed.
  8. I've been working on prepping the body shell for epoxy primer/seam sealer/paint. Basically the regimen has been needle gun/hammer & chisel to remove weld spatter, assortment of wire brushes in an angle grinder to remove other weld...crap....followed by maroon Scotchbrite to remove burned epoxy (from welding) and to scuff the epoxy coat that was put on three years ago. Literally every square inch needs to be scuffed, there are a lot of nooks/crannies, as you can imagine. To keep from going crazy, I set small goals for the day, and once they are done I stop, even if I feel like I could do more. Today I did the firewall and inner driver's side fender. But, yeah, the job is a freakin PITA.
  9. I really question whether the POR-15 metal prep is absolutely necessary, or just another product they want to sell. I used to use POR-15 on small parts that I fabbed for various projects, simply because it is pretty much as tough as powder coat but you can do it at home. These were not rusty parts, just clean metal that I lightly sanded to scuff, cleaned with brake cleaner, then coated with POR-15. It worked fine without their metal prep step.
  10. This is none of my damn business, and if you tell me that I won't be offended.... Having said that, I am curious why you decided to sell it? Did you find that you enjoy the build/project more than you do having/driving the result? I ask because I think I have a bit of that in me. I like the planning and execution of a project, then tend to become bored with it when I am finished.
  11. I wire brush, sand, or Scotch Brite the metal to a clean state, with no rust, clean/degrease with Prep All (made by Kleanstrip), then epoxy prime. The only thing I would caution, is that Prep All doesn't work well with water soluble oils, like if you sweated or drooled or rubbed your greasy hair on the part. To clean that stuff off I use a little bit of Westley's Bleche Wite on a rag or paper towel before the Prep All. The Bleche Wite is basically just a very strong detergent, so I make sure I remove all traces of it with a damp rag then immediately blow the part dry. Prep All evaporates and leaves no residue. I have no doubt that you can apply POR15 over flash rust, since it is designed to go over rust, but it seems like the height of silliness to create rust for it. And epoxy primer is not designed to go over rust. I guess I am lucky in the sense that Nor Cal is a dry environment and I have had no real problem at all with flash rust, even after working with bare metal for three years.
  12. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
  13. I know exactly what you mean... I was going to use POR-15 in a few areas on my project, but their TDS was insistent that I had to first use POR-15 metal prep, and rinse it off with water, before applying the product. I knew that would be a horror-show of flash rust, so I just used another product (Rust Bullet). Maybe POR-15 is designed to work best over a layer of surface rust? Or maybe the company is just greedy and wants to sell as much prep as they do POR-15? I'm not going to try it.
  14. Thanks for the input dudes, I sincerely appreciate it. I too am dubious of some of the claims of these sorts of products, but keep in mind I am by no means "pushing the envelope" in terms of what they claim to do. AFAIK, I have no rust. I am just forcing this product into seams where it is impossible to be sure. I live in a very dry climate, but my car has been "in progress" with a lot of bare metal for three years. The only surface rust that really appeared during that time is a little bit on the right rear quarter (because that is near where I drain the water from my compressor), and a little bit on the dash bar underneath the clamps I fabbed to mount my dash. All the visible rust will be wire brushed off before epoxy. I am only using Rust Bullet in places where I cannot see, in the crack formed by pinch/lap welds. It is purely a precaution, since even if I could detect rust in those joints, there is no mechanical way to remove it short of dismantling the shell. I would have to chemically neutralize it with some product or another anyway... So my choices are to do nothing with Rust Bullet, seal the seams, and paint the car. I am 98% sure I would be fine with that plan. Or I could brush in epoxy, which has no claimed rust countering ability. That would be fine as long as no surface rust cropped up in the seams in the past three years after I stitch welded the shell. I have given this a lot of thought, and I think I am covering my bases about as well as is possible to do.
  15. Nowhere near 1/2 gallon in my case. I just ordered one of these: https://www.rustbullet.com/product/six-shooter-combo-industrial-automotive/, because it is a product that if you do not carefully clean off the lid/rim of the can after each use, it is impossible to get the lid off again. I have just done the seams on the interior of the car so far (two coats), and that used up one small can. Yeah, chassis prep sucks. It is hard dirty work in awkward positions and there is little satisfying about it. The stitch welding in particular. Try to meticulously get the joint clean enough of seam sealer to make a sound weld (you can never get it all...unless you burn it out), then you get a contaminated weld anyway, grind it off, start over....rinse...repeat. I never found anything better for removing surface seam sealer/undercoat than a wire brush in a grinder....but even then it kind of partially melts and redeposits in other places. In large seams, dental picks and small screwdriver blades. In small seams, use a torch and burn it out. The fumes from that crap probably took five years off my life.
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