EF Ian

You could always go all out and fit titanium bolts.

I'm going to be fitting an electric fan to my 260Z and I was thinking about using a Pusher fan as it looks smarter inside the bay imo. But I have heard that they don't work quite as well, is this correct? Obviously one drawback is that it will block some airflow from the radiator but it can't be that much can it?

I'm instaling an electric fan on my 260Z but I'm not decided on which thermostat to go with. I quite like the look of this one but I'm wondering how well it actually works given that it senses the temp from the radiator matrix rather than the water directly. Does anyone have any experience of these? https://www.europaspares.com/product/238/18582/COOLING_SYSTEM_FANS/UNIVERSAL_FANS/Kenlowe_Adjustable_Electronic_Thermostat.html

Does anyone know how much the front AZC kit weighs?

Personally I think that it wouldn't look quite as good with wider tyres but if you don't have enouth traction then looks may have to come second. How bad is your lack of traction?

Thanks for that, the SMM kit seems really heavy, thats alomost twice the weight of the stock setup. Don't really want to add that much weight but it might be the only kit that will balance out the AZC front setup.

I'd have thought the stock drum setup was fairly weighty. I don't mind adding some weight , just as long as I won't be adding loads, I'm trying to get the car as light as possible. How are you finding the performance?

No way to lengthen them unless they have already been shortened.

Sounds like shes a bit of beast. Is it a handfull to drive?

Nice writeup, thinking of running this setup myself as long as it will clear 16x8 rota RB's which is probably what I'll run until I fit arcg flares. The pad doesn't seem to cover much of the disc though. Do you know how much more this weighs than stock?

I'm home for a week after finishing some more training so I got a chance to check out some of my new parts. Airdam Indicators for the Airdam New PCV hose, bonnet adjusters and some new fittings for the inspection panels. Carbon Fibre BRE style rear wing, very lightweight and rather nice looking: Coilovers, should do a nice job, fully adjustable and the quality looks very good. Cut off my stock shock and weld this part on Camber plates to weld in, only fitting these to the front for now: New fuel filter and thermostat, hood prop rod (will get this chromed) as mine is missing and second hand dome light as my switch is broken, will swap internals to my unit as its cleaner. Relay to wire into headlights, should improve brightness and save my switch as at the moment power runs through the stalk switch to the headlights. Red stiched gear gaiter, thought mine was a bit tatty: Oil and Filter: MM Billtet adaptors allow me to run a CV joint setup and get rid of the U-joints: Z31T CV driveshafts Billet alloy lock pulls: Got more on the way although mostly now I just need parts for re doing the wiring, paints, ss bolts, etc. Looking to get a custom made alloy fuel tank as I haven't been able to find a decent decond hand tank, I'll get it built with a baffle setup and an in-tank Aeromotive 340lph pump.

Nice work on the mounts

Will any LSD for an R200 fit my casing? If so that would mean that its only the spline count that would have to be the same? I've heard an S13 LSD will fit, but theres many variations of the S13 lsd? http://www.rhdjapan.com/kaaz-lsd-diff-w-lsd-oil-s13-ca18-sr20-58450

I don't want a VLSD, I want a CLSD, all the Kazz diffs are CLSD, My current diff is the stock open diff, not a VLSD unit. I know there are KAZZ LSDS that fit my diff casing and have the correct spline count for my Z31T CV axels, I just need to somehow confirm which is the correct lsd before I buy it.

Not owned mine long enouth to really comment. But if you can start with a rust free car (either bought that way or restored) then it shouldn't be too hard to keep it that way, I don't drive mine in the wet which helps and I make sure my paint is in good order and that the wheelarches and underneath are well coated, I also make sure that its cleaned everywhere so that dirt can't gather and trap moisture. When I'm not using my car for longer periods its stored in an Airchamber in a garage. Hopefully with my carefull looking after it will stay rust free for a very very long time.

I want to get a Kazz 1.5 way for my R200 (stock R200 found in my car originally - 78 260Z) (I'll be using Z31T CV shafts) The info I can find says a LSD for the S13/S14 open will fit with the correct spline count for Z31T stub shafts. The problem is there seems to be quite a lot of variations of this lsd and I want to make sure buy one that will fit. I believe the bottom diff on this page will fit? http://www.limited-slip.com/acatalog/S13.html Thing is if I look up that part number on this page it seem to be for a viscous diff http://www.driftworks.com/kaaz-lsd-differential-for-nissan-200sx-s13-s14-s15.html Can anyone confirm which diff will fit because I'm having a hard time. http://www.limited-slip.com/acatalog/nissan200sx.html

Thats a good point, although I'd have thought if it was welded closely to the original rails and then had plenty of seam sealer aswell it would be alright. Not that many fabrication shops near me, not sure if the one I use for random bits of metal would be able to make something like that.. Even if I don't add extra metal to the full length of the framerails it might be worth me adding extra to the forward area of the rails around the area where the tension rods are. I reckon if I add extra metal I would be able to use the rails for jacking the car aswell which could be handy. It just depends if the stock rails on there own are going to be stiff enouth to cope with 400hp.

I have a late UK 260Z (same chassis rails as a 280Z) and I'm looking to stiffen it for running an RB26. I'll definitly be running subframe connectors but I'm not sure whether to add baddog chassis rails over my existing rails, my existing rails are straight and solid so I'm wondering if I would see much benifit by adding the extra metal to them, obvoiusly it will be stiffer, but how much difference will it make? worth the extra weight? What are your opinions guys?

Sounds good. Make sure you do a build thread, would definitly make it cheaper/easier for me to do this swap once someone has already tried it and know what needs done, what works and what doesn't and so on. Good luck.

Obvoiusly it comes down to personal choice, but the engine itself is the reason for me wanting it, not the +500hp it makes. Yes, with this engine I'll need a completely new ECU and harness setup in order to run it. It will weigh closer to 580 lbs but thats still the same as an RB and they work fine in a Z. Its looking like I won't have the budget for this at the moment, its going to work out quite a lot more expensive than an RB26DET. I still need a V10 in my life at some time so I'll be revisting this later on either in another 260Z or in an E30 M3.

I have no time or means to go buy parts like a microphone at the moment, but as soon as I can I will. Just going to wait untill I'm home at Christmas and call then by landline. But I'll also get skype setup on the laptop at the same time for future use. Still on the lookout for something I can with the blackberry.

I'm not really desperate, I won't need them until around March next year but I like to have all my parts ready and waiting before I need them so theres no problems closer to the time. I should be able to call when I get home at Christmas but not untill then so it depends if he will take a call around the 28 - 30th of December as I'm off again after that, if I can't do it then I might be able to get one of the parents to call for me. Thanks for your offer but hopefully I won't have to bother you and take you up on it. Unfortunatly I use a Blackberry and skype doesn't work on it and I don't have suitable equipment to use it on my computer.

Loving it

Its not like its hard to answer your e-mails. I'd call if I could, but thats not possible at the moment,