EF Ian

Another chap from here in the UK whos putting an RB26DETT into his car.

Very Awesome, I look forward to more updates.

Same as whats on my car, just a stock UK or Euro air dam. I think this is the same as them: http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=155_95&product_id=357

I'll update when I get more done on this, I won't be ordering for a while as I won't be at home for another 5 - 6 months. Definitly thinking about getting one like the photos I posted but with an in tank Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump. That should be more than good enouth to run any engine conversion that I'll be doing.

My 1979 260Z

Very Nice

I might be able to adapt one to fill from the original location but the only real benifit I can see of a fuel cell is the price, which may be a big one as I haven't checked what they want to make that tank to my specs yet. It will be made from alloy, fill from the original location, have an in tank pump that will be well baffled and I have the option to add foam so really I have all the options from a fuel cell and more but it ends up costing a lot more. I like the shape of the stock tank and wouldn't mind keeping it, but its got rust inside and out which may be too much to repair and then I'd also have to add baffles and sump so it would be a lot for a tank which might not last more than a few years. Might have been an option if my tank was in better shape. Also I was hoping for better baffling than that (thinking trap door setup) just to make sure I have no problems on track, better safe than sorry.

Here are the photos:

Like the work so far. Thats a pretty big looking turbo, hopefully it won't be too laggy, when I get an RB in mine its either going to be twin turbo or a smallish single, 400hp would be plenty for me as long as it is responsive and has very little lag, I hate lag.

Cars coming on well, going to be awesome when this is finished. What car is your 1" master cylinder from? With regards to your clearance problems with your wheels, if you've not already sorted it then fitting an AZC steering arm will give you more room.

????

Do you have any photos of these fitted to a car?

I've tried but I'm having trouble uploading photos. Could be to do with the slow net connection I cuurently have as I am in the middle of the Ocean and using satelite internet. I'll try again when we get Malta and get wifi in about 10 days time. Why though, what possible advantage could that have? If I go with a fuel cell then I'll have to fill up from inside the boot which as this will be mainly a road car I don't want to have to do, that would also mean I wouldn't be able to have a stock looking boot which is another thing I want. Most fuel cells will be the wrong size to and stick down too low at the rear, which to me doesn't look good. I'm just interested in why you think a fuel cell would be better than a custom fuel tank setup?

I realise that you have sold this car, which must have sucked for you. But I am thinking about using AZC coilovers on my 260Z and I was just wondering what you thought of them, handling wise, comfort wise and also the fitment? Thats if you even still come on here. I loved this car, got to be one of the best Z's I've ever seen, I hope I can get mine almost as nice as this, I rather like the colour coded chassis, Trying to decide whether mine would look beter in Black or the same as body in Datsun 307 Pacific Blue Metalic.

My fuel tank could do with being changed, so I was thinking of getting a custom one that I could use for the current setup but that I will also be able to use for the new motor, whether it will be a V10 or an RB26DETT. It would have to look as good as the stock tank, fill up from the stock location, hold at least as much fuel, have a decent baffle setup and be suitable for high flow fuel injection. I was thinking of this design: http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10310d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank1-jpg http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10311d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank2-jpg http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10312d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank3-jpg I'm not sure whether to run that design which exactly replaces the stock tank, or to cut out the wheel well and move the bottom up (so you can't see it beneather the car from behing) and make it bigger. I'm also not sure what pump setup to go for. I quite like the idea of an in tank pump setup as it saves mess outside the tank underneath the car and is probably a more simple setup but I could also go for an external pump setup which gives me the option of changing setups easily if I want/need to. I don't want to run a fuel swirl pot idealy, but I'm not sure if thats possible, I assume a 400 - 500hp V10 or RB26 doesn't require the use of a swirl pot so long as the tank pickup is well baffled? Also, I may have missed something, but why can't I post anywhere other than in this section of the forum?

My 260Z - Colour is Datsun 307 Pacific Blue Metalic

I've noticed that it doesn't have an electric fuel pump, I thought late 260Z's came with an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical one, is this correct? If so, should I fit an electrical one aswell? My fuel tank could od with being changed, so I was thinking of getting a custom one that I could use for the current setup but that I will also be able to use for the new motor, whether it will be a V10 or an RB26DETT. It would have to look as good as the stock tank, fill up from the stock location, hold at least as much fuel, have a decent baffle setup and be suitable for high flow fuel injection. I was thinking of this design: http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10310d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank1-jpg http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10311d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank2-jpg http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10312d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank3-jpg I'm not sure whether to run that design which exactly replaces the stock tank, or to cut out the wheel well and move the bottom up (so you can't see it beneather the car from behing) and make it bigger. I'm also not sure what pump setup to go for. I quite like the idea of an in tank pump setup as it saves mess outside the tank underneath the car and is probably a more simple setup but I could also go for an external pump setup which gives me the option of changing setups easily if I want/need to. I don't want to run a fuel swirl pot idealy, but I'm not sure if thats possible, I assume a 400 - 500hp V10 or RB26 doesn't require the use of a swirl pot so long as the tank pickup is well baffled?

I've noticed that it doesn't have an electric fuel pump, I thought late 260Z's came with an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical one, is this correct? If so, should I fit an electrical one aswell? My fuel tank could od with being changed, so I was thinking of getting a custom one that I could use for the current setup but that I will also be able to use for the new motor, whether it will be a V10

Thanks. I will take my time with this one, want to get everything spot on, unfortunatly some things will have to come from America which will end up costing me loads in shipping and import tax. I rather like the wheels, I reckon they will look even better when shes sitting a bit lower. I have thought about changing them but I think I'll just keep them for a while as the wheels I really want are RS-Watanabe R-Type but I'd need to fit arch flares first.

Thanks, got loads of photos of the Civic, hers a few: Custom 3" exhaust system Engine bay currently looks like this, but its due a respray, custom intake piping and I'll be getting my new rocker cover airbrushed like the one I had the B16B. Heres the current spec list: Body and Misc Resprayed Original Colour – Rio Red Smoothed off Aerial Smoothed off Rear Wiper Smoothed off Rear Badge Smoothed off Rear Fogs Smoothed off Bootlock Fully Undersealed OEM Mudflaps Honda Access Rain Visors EK Throttle Cable TenzoR short shift gearlever (Dual Bend) ITR Gear Gaiter Type R Key Momo Boss OMP Steering Wheel Panasonic Head unit Alpine Speakers CG Lock Custom Airbrushed Rocker cover Jazz washer Jets Bonnet lifters PWJDM Bolts and washers All other Bolts/washers changed to SS Wire Tucked Engine Bay EF9 Headlights (Lightweight Plastic) Earls Fuel Fittings with Braided Hose and Inline Fuel Filter Custom Reg Number Performance Quaife ATB LSD Koyo Racing Radiator – Polished Aluminium Slimline Fan Odyssey PC680 Racing Battery Customised PWJDM Holder PW Magnetic Engine and gearbox oil Bolts Honda MTF 94 (gearbox) Silkolene 5W-40 (Engine) Energy Shifter linkage Bushes Competition Clutch – Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar clutch Performance – Engine – B20 VTEC B20 Block - Honed (0.5mm overbore) Balanced B20 Crankshaft Golden Eagle B20 Crank Girdle RS Machine 84.5mm Pistons - 11.5:1 Blueprint H-Beam Rods ACL Bearings ARP Main Stud kit ARP Head Studs ARP 2000 Rod Bolts Golden Eagle VTEC Conversion kit OEM Headgasket (DNR modified) OEM ITR Oil Pump OEM ITR Water Pump OEM ITR Timing Belt Kit Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel Baffled ITR Oil Sump ITR Oil pickup and windage tray JDM EK9 N1 Crank Pulley B16B PR3-3 Head OEM Honda Stem Seals Crower Stage 3 cams Crower Valve springs Crower titanium retainers Buddy Club Adjustable Cam gears Hondata Insulating Intake Manifold Gasket Edelbrock Victor X Inlet manifold ported to 70mm OMNI Power 70mm Throttle body Blox Max-flo 4-2-2-1 (Tri-Y) Header – Heatwrapped Custom Prospeed 3" Manifold back Exhaust AEM Hybrid Intake BPI Velocity Stack & K&N Filter 345cc Injectors AEM FPR Rywire OBD0 - OBD1 Conversion Harness with lambda sensor extension Rywire OBD0 - OBD2 Distributor convertor OBD2 Dizzy OBD1 ECU mapped with Neptune Custom Crankcase breather setup Precision Oil Catch tanks with breathers NGK Platinum Plugs Magnecor KV-85 ignition leads Custom Earth leads Handling Meister R Coilovers Tenzo R Front Upper strut brace Cusco Front Under Brace Tenzo R Rear upper strut brace Beaks Rear Lower Tie Bar Energy Anti-roll bar bushes New OEM RTA bushes Energy Poly Strut Rod bushes Goodyear Eagle F1’s all round Brakes ITR Callipers and Carriers ATR 1†Master cylinder and servo Goodridge SS Brake Lines Castrol DOT4. Fluid EBC 282mm Discs Hawk HP+ pads EBC 242mm Discs (Rear) Ferrodo Pads (Rear)

That wheel is definitly too big imo, will feel better with a 15x9 and be easier to get tires to fit it too, I can imagine it being pretty hard to get the tire ona 15x11 wheel.

After a proper search for rust I did manage to find some unfortunatly. I found rust on the fuel tank, one of the chassis legs in the engine bay, both rear wheel arches and a little near the radiator. I took them all back to clean metal so hopefully thats an end to it. Fuel Tank, noticed a few tiny spots of rust, but after removing the paint from those areas I found there were rust spots all over it and ended up stripping the whole thing, I managed to wire brush them all back to cleanish metal, then treated it with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel which did a good job before snading, cleaning and priming it prior to painting. It will do for now but I'll get a new tank at some point. After: Bay, got rid of all the rust, one advantage of a black bay is that its easy to match, what I've done will do for now, I'll be getting a full bare metal respray in the bay in the near future. After: I also sanded and painted the brake booster, unfortunatly it got some rain drops on it before it had fully dried and it ruined the finish a bit, but again it will do for now, thats not rust behind it btw, just grease. Polished up the lips on the wheels a bit: Got to work on the rear wheel arches, any rust I found was ground back to clean metal, sanded, cleaned, primed, painted and then undersealed: P-side before: P- side after: Drivers side before: During: After, I also painted the brake drums. While I will definitly be changing my brake setup for something much better I thought I might aswell smarten up the stock calipers for now, brakes aren't the first thing on my list so the stock ones will be staying for a while yet. Wire brushed and cleaned my caliprs and deck bells ready for painting. Its pretty clean in the wheelarches and I didn't find any rust, however to make sure and also make the finish look a lot smarter I'll also strip it back to bare metal for a respray at the same time as I do the bay, I'll also be seam welding around that area anyway. I polished and waxed the front end, I have since finished the car, but didn't get any chance to take photos. I drove 1000 miles in just less than 3 weeks and loved every mile of it, unfortunatly the car is now tucked safely away in an Air chamber and I went back to work today. I'll look forward to getting her out next and getting on with some modification.

Why do you say that this setup is recommended for racing use only?

Does that setup hit your lips at all? Mine is still at stock ride height running 14x6 -10 but from looking at it even with those wheels if I go lower they will contact the lip, it also looks like I can only loose about 20 to 25mm clearance from the back of the wheel before its getting to close to the shock.

On a lot of cars your rev needle can jump about if you are having ignition problems, its just the signal that being messed with, the revs will still be the same while its jumping about.