EF Ian

Looking good. How did you do the carbon on the console? Is it a vinyl?

Looking for some Arizona Z Car Billet Steering Arms if anyone has any going. Tried to order from AZC directly but he's clearly not interested in selling as he never replies so thought I'd see if anyone on here has some for sale.

Yeah, I think the tranny will fit with some alterations, don't want to loose too much room in the cabin though. I'm currently trying to find measurements/dimensions of the engine and gearbox as the engines themselvesare very hard to find where I live. I suppose I really need to work out the maxiumum I'm prepared to spend. I guess £15k ($24k) would be my max unless I spread it out over 3 years, but I'd rather have it done quick so idealy within 18 months.

What make is your wiring connector in that last photo? I want to use something similar in my build.

I can't really call, I'm in the UK at the moment, but not at home which means it would have to be my mobile so it would end up costing a fortune, also hard to call at the correct time due to the time differences.

I want to buy some Billet steering knuckles for the 260Z from Arizona Z Car but I'm having problems ordering. Only way I can see to order is to send an e-mail, I've done this but I never get any reply to my e-mails. Anybody bought something from AZC recently?

I'm looking into this, trying to get some measurements from the engine so I can see what it will take to make it fit. If the budget is going to be too big I won't do it and will probably go RB26DETT. If this happens I intend to pick this up later on either in another 260Z or in an E30 M3.

I love V10's so I'd really like to try this conversion in my 260Z, just trying to work out if it would be possible. Engine is a BMW S85 5L V10 from the E60 M5, makes 507hp is stock form, with less restrictive exhaust system and remap up to 550HP is possible, Its not all that heavy an engine, an RB26DETT weighs 255 - 260kg and the S85 weighs around 240kg so it certainly not to heavy to put in a Z. The engine will definitly fit lengthwise but it may be a bit tight widthwise and I'm not sure if the E92 M3 6 speed gearbox will fit in the transmission tunel and the gearstick position looks like it could be quite far back. Only other concerns are clearance of the front crossmember and steering arm. What do you guys think? Heres some photos of the engine in question:

Looking awesome

Thanks, I guess the metal is pretty hard so it would be hard for even a machinist to tap the whole properly. The sleeves don't need to be anything special do they? Any hard steel pipe cut the correct size will work fine?

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but instead of using spacers for the 10mm to 12mm ring gear problem can't you just get it redrilled so you can use 12mm ring gear bolts?

Thanks, won't be looking for a set untill I confirm I'll be running this setup and get the other parts but I'll definitly keep that in mind when the time comes.

Thats great news if he decided to sell them.

Is there any solution to the shafts being too long now that M2 Differentials is no more? Does anywhere else make them?

Turbo 6.0 Glad you are happy with your coilovers, I can see you like it really low which is fine, but I don't want my car really low and I'm wondering how much higher you could have made the car had you wanted to? Thanks

Nice work, its always interesting having a look at custom fabricated parts. I didn't think a VQ swap was possible in a RHD due to the steering arm, I never thought of doing what you have done. Seems really simple too, does it still work nice and smoothly even with the shaper angles in it.

You are correct, the 280 style rails are much taller, but they don't go all the way back and the subframe connectors are quite short, therefore it shouldn't be too hard to fab them up to connect, it might not look quite so neat but it should work. I contacted John at bad dog and he says this is what others have done.

Really loving this, engine looks awesome. Should be a great setup with all thos parts, rips manifolds, endyn worked head, several tomei parts. Can't say I'm not jealous. Was rob able to make the exhaust manifold from dimensions he had from when he ran a 240Z?

Mines definitly 280Z style as its a 78 260Z. My frame rails are solid so I don't think Its worth adding extra metal there but I would really like to install subframe connecters. Perhaps I can alter the 240Z rear frame rails to fit.

I'm hoping to use the bad dog subframe connectors on my project. Does anyone know if they fit 260Z's also?

If you go low on a single perch design you end up adjusting the preloading, with a dual perch you can go as low or high as you like without affecting the preload. Makes it easy to adjust the height of the car without altering the balance of it. Also with a single perch design the lower you go the less shock travel you have which. I'm thinking about using MeisterR coilovers with a threaded tube, in America I'm sure you haven't heard of MeisterR but they are becoming quite popular in the UK, I have a set in my EF9 and they very very good.

Thats true, compared to my 2.5" system I had on with the previous engine the 3" is really loud, could almost do with a 3rd silencer. Do it, then I'll see how you get on, I'd also thought of going the same route, high comp built RB30 bottom end with a RB26 head and custom cams, carbs would be nice to gain a slightly more oldschool sound but if I'm going to go with a RB over an L then it would have to have a big performance gain and therefore I think I'd have to go with ITB's. You can go to 3.3L with the RB30 bottom end which would make a very torquey NA motor but I think it might reduce the revving ability of it too much. I wonder if its possible to build an NA RB which could perfrom as well as my 2L B series which makes 122hp per litre.

Exhaust looks good but I'd have gone for 3". My 2L B20 makes best power with a 3" system so I'm pretty sure an NA RB will work well with one too, sure it won't be as highly tuned but it has more displacement.

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I normally just wait until we get a really cold day in winter (around o'c or colder) and then chip it all off then, usually comes off really easily.