EF Ian

Only photos I have of the brake lines at the moment, I will try and get bigger ones. They are looking good I think, it was definitely the right choice to use polished stainless hardlines, they look so much better than copper or cunifer ones.

I'll let you know asap. Didn't know that about the pads, I've got Lincoln LS pads atm, hope they work. I'll know very soon.

Dust really does get everywhere, in any gap, hole, anywhere open, blasted my bay recently, the rest of the car was well covered but dust still made it the whole way underneath and into the chassis at the back, on top of the fuel tank, everywhere, even inside somehow, though it was well sealed but it still found a way in somewhere.

My replacement shock arrived this week so I should be able to finish off my rear suspension, brake and cv shaft setup late this week or early next week. I'll get some photos to you once I can of the setup fitted. I'll only be home for about two days now for the rest of the year and I don't drive my car in winter but I'm hoping to have it out again in February so I'll get a review to you then, sorry its a lot later than I had originally planned. Interesting what you say about pads, I've only got cheap pads in at the moment, look like I may have to change them to better ones, possibly Hawk HP+ to match the pads in the front. Do both Lincoln LS and Mustang GT pads fit equally as well?

What wheel/tyre setup where you running with your original setup? I never intend to run more than 550fwhp, I was just saying that my engine is built so its good for 700 - 800hp and that therefore engine strength doesn't have a deciding factor on how much power I can run, only limiting factor is traction. Fastest car I have driven is probably a 600hp Evo 7, it was widebody so massive tyres and 4 wheel drive so that doesn't really count, but it could still break traction in first gear if you were pulling out on a tight corner and nailed it. After that it would be an Aston Martin GT4 and other than that my mates R33 GTS-T which is only running about 330hp so not a huge amount of driving with powerful rwd cars really, sure I've still got lots to learn. The fact that I can run 400hp on the road for easy driving and still have two or three other selectable power options available is a big help. Still between GT-SS turbos and R34 N1 turbos but theres not a huge difference between them, was leaning more GT-SS but I'm now thinking N1's as I'm sure they will make as much power as I can ever run.

Don't go for the McKinney ones, one of my shocks broke at the top threaded section when removing the securing bolt, I've been chasing them for a replacement shock for nearly two months now but I'm not getting anywhere. I've already welded the tube onto my hub so I don't even have a rolling car until I receive a replacement. They have pretty much taken my car off the road for good and don't even seem to care, they don't deserve any business. Just awell I don't even live in the same country and them or they would have a really angry customer calling round.

Lets hope the handle 550hp, guess I won't be able to run that much in first or second gears, hopefully by third I can run full power. What width R888's are you running?

Sounds good, too late for me, but if I ever need a replacement setup I know where to go.

I'm running 225/45/16 R1R's at the moment, I'm planning on putting on flares later on and running 245/45/16's or possibly 255/45/16's if they are available, these will be either R888's, I'd run AO48R's but they only go up to 225 in 16's and I don't really want to have to change to 17's if I can help it as I prefer the look with 16's.

I'm trying to decide how much power to run my RB26 at in my 260Z, the engine is good for over 700hp so the only limiting factor is really how much power I can put to the ground and driveability. Max is going to be 550hp as I'd like good response and little lag. I've got the appropriate chassis and suspension mods and will run a 1.5way CLSD. Only got 225 semi slicks at the moment but will be moving to 245 semi slicks once my flares are fitted. I'll be running two boost maps, one for easy driving with something like 400hp and a high boost map with more power, 500 - 550 I was thinking but only if I can put this down. Turbo choice will depend on how much power I want, I was planning on running HKS GT-SS turbos but if I won't be able to put 550hp to the ground I might be better limit it to 500hp and go for something slightly smaller. What max power to you think I should go with? How hard is it to put down? Remember I'll run two power levels so as long as the low boost map is easy to use it does't matter if the high boost map is bit mad, but not to the point where you cant use it.

How many litre do your RB26 oil pans hold? What price are you making them for at the moment?

The fan would break in no time if installed behind the radiator, the motor would constantly be fighting the air coming in to the bay from moving forward which would try and spin the fan the opposite way.

That answers my question perfectly, thanks very much. I'm hoping I can get one made that holds more oil than that. Something like 7.4 quarts would be good.

Old post but: Do you still like your sump? No problems? How many litres does it hold? Does it hang any lower than the crossmember? What advantages do you get running an external pickup?

I've decided to go with GT-SS (-9's) turbos, they have virtually the same response as -7's but make more power higher up and will be better at higher revs also (I'd like to be able to rev to 8000) Bigger power goal now, want 450hp on my normal map and then a high boost map on a switch with 550hp.

Thanks, Gone blue in the end but I'm going to put some 3M clear film over it and see if that helps protect the paint a bit longer.

Surely a pusher fan also draws in cold air from the front and moves that through the engine bay?

In the yearly MOT's over here they test the parking brake quite hard, I need to have a look and see exactly what the requirements are.

Thanks guys I'm still having trouble deciding to go blue or stay black with the airdam, what do you guys think? In other news, this car is definitely going RB, because I've just bought a fully forged RB26 with lots of Tomei goodies. Engine will be good for over 700HP, but I'll never run that much, hoping to have a 450HP map and a second high boost map at the flick of a switch to change to something like 550hp. I'll be limited to just over 600hp by my fuel pump anyway.

Nice setup. How much power does the parking brake have? it looks rather small.

Most parts are back in the bay now apart from the engine, that will go in once brake lines are done. Body panels back on and properly aligned, airdam mounted and diffuser plate made. Airdam is to be painted blue but I thinks it also looks quite cool in black so I'm considering keeping it black. If you look behind the airdam you can see a big gap between the airdam and the radiator panel, this is bad for airflow and creates a lot of turbulence. To sort this out and improve airflow to the radiator and eventually also the intercooler I got an aluminium plate made up, this will be painted satin black. I think it improves the looks aswell as the airflow.

Suspension is on:

Bay got sprayed on Tuesday:

The plates need to be aligned 90 degrees to the centre line of the car. Don't mean to be rude, but that does look a total hack job, I'd cry every time I opened my bonnet if I saw that. I'd be worried about that not being very strong also. Done right this can look very good and its not that hard to do: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113907-78-260z-rb26-in-the-works/?p=1074134