JMortensen

2" strut would be 240.

Sounds like a reaction disk issue.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/75899-rips-240z-goes-786-1774mph/page__p__722391__hl__%2Brb30+%2Bdrag__fromsearch__1#entry722391 This one went 4 mph faster, but it only had 1/4 mile to accelerate, so not really a fair comparison.

Here is a new methodology for setting bias which I think is friggin awesome. From Neil Roberts, author of Think Fast: I had set my car up like this pretty much on accident. I was at a driver's school and we were doing a skidpad exercise, and they were trying to show us how the brakes affected the handling, so he had me get up to speed on the skid pad and then brake as hard as possible. He said: "Now watch: When you step on the brakes, the car will spear off on a straight line." I stepped on the brakes and it just hugged the cones and stopped. The instructor was pretty impressed, but I really just lucked into that because I set the bias the normal way. What I like about Roberts method in addition to it handling better under braking is that you don't have to flat spot the tires to set the bias. He mentioned this method in his book, but he was pretty vague about it, just basically saying that properly set, applying the brakes shouldn't cause oversteer or understeer. This is much more explicit as to what to do. EDIT--One more thing I suppose I should mention is that no matter how the bias was set, under heavy braking the tail wagged pretty hard.

AL/delrin TC rod bushings will help, as will the toe settings as mentioned above. I liked a pretty aggressive toe setting, at 3/16" total. I think Richard has mentioned running about double that amount.

If you're going to sell it as an LSD, you should probably take the rear cover off and take a picture or two. You'll need to drain the oil if you ship it anyway. The reason I say this is because all you can really see is a finned cover. The side stub shafts are not from an LSD, so while it is more likely that somebody had and LSD and wanted to use the stock halfshafts so they popped in the stub shafts out of a 280Z, it is also possible that somebody had a 280Z and really wanted a finned cover for some reason so they put the cover on an otherwise stock 280Z R200.

Have you tried www.wolfcreekracing.com? Might be difficult to find one parts carb.

I had a bad experience trying to use them as a track pad. That's not what they're for though.

They worked fine for me on the street and at autoxes. No need to heat them up before they worked. The R4 needs heat and it's like having no brakes at all before the heat gets into them, but the R4S should work great on the street. I wonder if you might have gotten the wrong pads... might be worth a call to Porterfield.

Figure the compression on each spring and how much pressure it takes to get that amount of compression, multiply by the number of springs.

Not sure what you're asking me. Just call them back and ask for Jay Morris. He is the owner and used to race Z's. He knows everything there is to know about how to put his stuff in your car, and is super helpful and a very nice guy. He'll figure out the parts you need.

Considering the whale tail spoiler put out 250 lbs at 120 mph in the wind tunnel, and lift is exponential by way of velocity squared, 550 lbs at 70 mph sounds way out of the realm of possibility to me.

Were they rebuilt? Possible someone switched the inner cv joints on the shafts...

If you call GC and talk to Jay, he can figure that all out for you. From memory, sttock struts (like the 240 front strut you'll use in the back) have a 12mm shaft. The MR2 struts have a 14mm shaft. You need adapters to make them work (they'll include them with the camber plates). You're running 2.5 ID (inside diameter) and so that's the size perch you need.

You want to rethink that estimate just a bit?

I was going to completely write this off, but then I thought again. I think if you have a V8 and soft bushings this might make some sense. There have been cases where the torque has loosened the big ol 24mm bolt and tried to move the control arm back. I can recall I think Jeromio had this happen with enough force that the bolt fell out and the control arm pushed back and I think the bushing actually pulled through the saddle and either got cocked in there sideways or fell out of the car, can't quite remember. The control arm itself is probably a lot stiffer than the brace though since it is a straight tube of larger diameter, so I think you could safely ditch the brace if the big bolts were tight and had no possibility of loosening up (thinking safety wire). What is a much more useful brace for most people is something that laterally locates the bottom of the uprights in the suspension. They really aren't designed well to take a lot of lateral load, and by attaching the upright to the frame rail or something else, I think you'd get more benefit. You will occasionally see racers' cars modified with diagonal braces from the bottom of the uprights to the frame or mustache bar mounts, and I think that's a much better idea for the kind of use that most Z's get.

Most machines have a button to switch from degrees to inches. I worked with a Hunter machine for over a year before I hit it on accident...

$400 sounds very fair to me. They're going to strip them down, cut the stock spring perch off, section the strut, weld it back together straight, and repaint them. None of that is particularly hard work, but it is time consuming.

This guy has!

Yes, Going Faster. Apparently I need to go find: "Alzheimers at 36. How to Cope." I have all of Smith's books, but Tune to Win is the only one that has managed to hold my attention. I've tried to get into Drive to Win several times, and just can't. I totally disagree about CCA. It has good info on splitters, air dams, wings, diffusers, dive planes. All of those have been used on Z's.

You would still need to check the front part number. I hope you're not intending to drive your car around with the spring perches like that. I'm having flashbacks to PurePontiacKid's suspension here...

I would check the strut in the front too. I'm not sure about KYBs, but on Tokicos the struts are the same, but the rear has a 2" spacer on the bottom and the front does not. Not sure if the Tokicos are stamped with the same part number or not. Your Eibach springs are 10" long (1000), 2.5" ID (250) and 175 and 150 in lbs. I would switch the fronts to the rears, but they're relatively soft so it probably won't make a real noticeable difference.

Oops. Slip of the tongue there.

CCA is a great book. There are others in the same series as well. I really liked Comp Car Suspension and I'm into Comp Car Downforce right now. Race Car Aerodynamics by Katz is very good, Tune to Win by Shelby is long in the tooth, but still good, think Fast by Neil Roberts is another good one. These are all about building the car. Driving Faster is a good one on driving technique.

If the struts weren't sectioned then it doesn't need shorter struts. You'd have to measure if your friend couldn't tell you whether they were sectioned or not. Look in the sectioning FAQ for the Tokico part numbers.