JMortensen

How are you figuring this? I would have guessed 10 or 12 lbs for the pump, the lines, and the power rack.

Hillclimbs are usually pretty short and you'd want autox tires. ORR is a different story, whatever the current harder compound DOT tire is would probably be best, RA1 or Victoracer would have been the choices last time I was racing.

Outside the US there were different engines. I have seen one, I can't recall the name (18RG???), but IIRC it was a DOHC Mikuni carbed 4 cylinder that was either 1.8 or 2 liters. We got the 20R and 22R, the turbo 22R and a diesel which is pretty rare, but the rest of the world had more variety.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ If you can't find the years for the MR2, you might be able to look at a Tokico application chart and figure it out that way with the stock number provided in that thread.

No experience at all, but just thinking logically it seems you could either get a new flare and cut the old one off and graft the new one on or you could modify the existing one. If you liked the wheel arch size and distance, you could just do the floral foam thing and then glass in your new shape, and then cut the old shape out from underneath. Seems like finding a flare you like would be the easier route.

I think a lot of E Production cars use the subtle Z kit. If the above link doesn't give you what you need, check jmark's posts on classiczcars.com, as he has many high quality pics of gira's car posted there, from pretty much every angle on the track. A search here or there for E Production or Greg Ira or gira or jmark might get you some better results.

You might check www.zccjdm.com. He doesn't do the Bob Sharp IMSA flares, but he does similar big huge IMSA flares. The price is DAMN good, and the quality of the flares I bought was amazing, especially considering the price. I don't think he does doors yet. I think Reaction Research does doors, but as I recall they were very expensive.

Call them and find out. There is a number in this thread on another forum: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-143375.html

Just wondering why you guys aren't just starting in 2nd gear. There is potentially an argument to be made for the 4.11 if it got you through the 1/4 mile at an advantageous rpm, or if it worked out better for a road course or autox or something like that. But if the argument is that you can't build boost in 1st, put it in 2nd seems a simple solution. In general though I agree that a taller diff works better for cars with a wide power band, and short gears work better for a car that has to stay in a narrow power band.

White Zombie reference? Cool...

280ZX calipers are pretty notorious for the ebrake breaking. New calipers will probably fix the issue, unless the cable is frayed and that is what is holding the brake on. Can't really help on the auto trans.

Quit being so sensitive. They make fun of EVERYONE, including themselves (and British car makers like Reliant). Car actually looks pretty sporty. Kind of Lotus-y in a way.

John has another thread where he is driving the car off of an alignment rack, and one where he is driving the car trying to nail down a hesitation/surge issue. The car is driving and it is bad ass.

I think Stony used to buy parts in Japan and sell in the US as well.

You could get new sleeves and nuts. They're relatively cheap from places like Coleman Racing, whose website doesn't seem to be working this morning. www.colemanracing.com. Probably spend $60 for all 4 corners.

Is the block notched yet?

If the clutch loses its grip the further you drive, you probably have the adjustment on the master cylinder wrong. There should be 1/8" of free play from the time the pin starts moving until it starts to move the master cylinder. If you don't have free play here, what can happen is that the port that opens the master to the reservoir gets blocked. When this happens the pressure in the master never gets fully released. It's OK when you start out because there might be just a couple lbs of pressure in there, but the more you use the clutch the hotter the fluid gets and the more it expands so as you drive the clutch disengages more and more until it just starts slipping all the time. A good test would be to open the bleeder on the master or slave when the problem was occurring. The fluid would squirt out, because it would be under pressure. Your description of your problem is pretty bad. If you can tell us if the engine was going faster but the car wasn't accelerating that would tell us if the clutch was slipping, or if the engine just bogged down, that would indicate that the clutch was not the problem. More description would be helpful.

I wouldn't trust ISKY's springs just because they're ISKY. When I bought my last cam my machinist warned me about one of the big cam manufacturers, I can't remember if it was Crane or ISKY, the point was the springs were way too strong and they caused premature wear. I had Schneider springs and he was wary of them too, but he checked them on his spring dyno and found them to be OK and put them in. I'm sure some of the machinists/racers around here would have a good idea of what closed and open pressure should be to prevent premature wear. Hey Pete, if you use a larger bore headgasket, you can do more unshrouding of the valves, or you can notch the block to match the head. Just an idea, you know, while you're at it...

Weird that the last one has the same cutout in the rocker for a jack as the Transcendental Racing car. I wonder if that was a common mod back in the day...

I love the names "Snowmageddon, snOMG, snopacalypse". My submission: Snowly sh#t Oddly sunny here in Seattle today... I'll take it!

Now I can build that L24 powered 280ZX I've been dreaming of...

I believe you can run a 240 with an L28 as a 280 in B/SP so long as you meet the weight requirement for a 280. From the rulebook: A vehicle may compete in Street Prepared Category if the preparation of the vehicle has not exceeded the allowable modifications of Stock Category, except as specified below. However, the distinction between different years/models used in Stock Category does not apply in Street Prepared Category. Example: Porsche 911 models that are listed on the same line are considered the same. 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, & 280ZX Turbo 300ZX Turbo (1984-89) 300ZX Turbo (1990-96) 350Z The way it is listed makes it look like the 280ZX is in there too. I think that the L28ET was determined to be illegal, not sure if what the deal is there. For the record, a winning B/SP car is going to be EXPENSIVE.

I wish I could find the times, but I think SCCA has removed them from their website. I seem to remember that John Thomas was less than 1/2 second off of the winning XP time, and that's being limited to the L6 and 16x10 wheels. JT is obviously an EXCELLENT driver, but the point is I think the Z could be competitive in XP, especially if the car were built to maximize the rules. I'd probably go KA24DET if I were building one to try and win nats, but I wouldn't be surprised if even my porky 5.3L car at 2250 with no driver could still post up times that compared well to JT's assuming a good enough driver were behind the wheel. I guess I have to attempt to prove that assertion, or it's all just keyboard warrior stuff, but the car should handle pretty good with the way I'm setting it up, and it would have some advantages like wider wheels, rear wing, more power, not that much more weight, etc.

So let's just say you arbitrarily cap salaries again. Then what? If the team makes $1.8B like the Cowboys (http://www.forbes.co...s-10-intro.html), and you cap the salaries, then the team owner Jerry Jones gets richer, but the guys who actually play the game are forcibly prevented from sharing in the profits they helped to create? WTF kind of sense does that make?

Figure out how to do something that as many people want to watch and that generates as much income, and you too will be paid similarly. Good luck to you. Now you could make the case that college athletes are getting the shaft, but the pros are definitely earning their crazy salaries. I'm not a football fan, but I usually watch the SB. I thought this one was pretty good. Not a blow out by any stretch, and there have been last minute drives in previous SB's that made this one a contest right up to the end.