JMortensen

You can position the Autopower bar really close to the roofline if you're careful about it. If you're just using the roll bar alone it is entirely behind the seat, so a bit of padding on the bars immediately around the headrest should suffice. I ran one with no padding whatsoever for years, but luckily never got in an accident to see if that was a good idea or not. If you're going to run a full cage, I think you simply cannot get your head far enough away from the A pillar bars, and for that reason it should be a helmet only proposition to drive the car at that point. The best thing you can do IMO is lower the seat as much as possible. If you do that you'll gain some clearance between the roof and your head and the door opening and your head. I think you're most likely to hit the opening above the door in an accident. I'm 6' and had a spin at an autox and when the car came to a stop I smacked my head on the door area. Rung my bell pretty good with a helmet on. I just don't think there is a good way around that problem when you're 6' or more in a Z car, they're too short in height and there probably isn't enough room to lay the seat back.

Bad master, bad slave, or both. Usual procedure is to replace both at the same time.

If you're not cutting the body for extra tire clearance, don't put flares on the car. If you do, you won't be able to put the bigger wheels on that would fill up the flares, because when the suspension compresses the tires will hit the original fender lip. It's kind of like putting a hat on top of your hat. Pointless.

I agree with burninator. I have friends who tow with turbo Toyota 4 cyl trucks and 1/2 tons, so I bought a GMC 1500. It's rated to tow 9000. Biggest thing I've towed is an S10 Blazer on my tilt trailer, which was probably 5500 or 6000 lbs total. It wasn't a long tow and I was sweating it at first, but it pulled through like a champ. The electric winch I bought was struggling to get the Blazer on the trailer though. American 1/2 ton trucks have come A LOOOOONG way since the 80s. The brakes are a lot better, they have a lot better motors, trans and ps coolers, etc. They're much better equipped for the job nowadays. 2500 or 3500 is better, but not absolutely necessary as it used to be.

It's seam sealer. I pulled up the top panel and scraped the inside with a pick, then hammered it back down and welded. The inside of the wheel wells was especially tough, but you can do it and get a decent result, just takes a lot of time and effort, and I'm not sure the payout is worth it in retrospect.

Get a medium-ish cam. If you go with the stock cam, you will get stock-like performance and will leave most of the potential to make hp on the table.. For my money, I'd rather have SU's if you're getting close to stock performance out of the car, they're cheaper and have better bottom end in my experience. If you go bigger than .460 or .470 or so lift on the cam you'll be into valve springs and stem seals. For someone looking to get the most out of the engine these things HAVE to be done, but for your goals I think I'd go just under that and run the biggest cam you can without having to mess with all that crap. A medium cam will still have a nice wide powerband and will take advantage of the carbs better than a stock cam will.

MSA has them, not much adjustment. Maybe a degree

G machine bushings allow camber adjustment front and camber/toe adjustment rear, and their TC kit just frees up the TC rod and allows it to move smoothly.

Ampman, you're about 3 1/2 years late to this thread. 19762802+2, they built me a 15x12 early last year. Not sure about the 15+ diameters.

They're just showing a generic picture of a strut, lots of struts have the spring perch built in, the Z has an insert.

The coilover either uses a small top hat which fits up inside the stock rubber isolator, or you use a camber plate or some other similar monoball type of setup on top. Those are the two choices.

Running the plates will get you an 1 or 1.5 inches lower without moving the spring perch at all. It's a good thing, and you should do the plates and the coilovers, especially if you don't want to section the struts.

The lengths are different on the strut tubes, the front hubs and rotors are different, rear slave cylinders are different, probably some other stuff too. Bottom line, don't do it unless you think that going through all the hassle to get the right parts to make it work and not look like it is dragging its ass down the street is better than just cleaning the arms and rebuilding the brakes (should only need to bleed the brakes though). I like the method of taking the 3 nuts off the strut top, disconnecting the sway bar(s) and brake lines and swinging the strut down and out of the fender. You can do it this way very easily and not have to mess with much other than bleeding the brakes. No spindle pin nightmare, no bushings, etc. I think that is the easiest way to go.

This is correct on all counts. What you're saying about one wheel acting differently than the other doesn't make sense, unless you're checking slack between the wheel and the diff. This would basically be checking the splines in the stub axles and companion flanges and the u-joints on the halfshafts and the splines into the carrier in the diff. If you turn one wheel until it CAN'T move, then that would include all the slack in the side gears, splines on opposite side and u-joints, etc. I know people who claim to be able to feel u-joint issues with the shafts installed. I can't I have to take them out to feel a bad u/j. Could also be a driveshaft angle issue. might check that out if you are still stuck.

I stuck with the L6 because I was foolish enough to believe it when people who "knew better" told me that a V8 Z wouldn't be able to handle. Took a couple years of Hybrid Z to disabuse me of that notion.

Just like it says, need LS1 oil pan, pickup (think the windage tray is the same as my 5.3), dipstick and tube, and the filler neck that screws into the valve cover. Will pay $200 if you pay to ship to WA, 98296

"Late model" mustangs meaning in the last few years I think are using the 31 spline axles. It is possible that the 6 cyl is using the 28 spline, but I have a listing for 31 spline axles for Mustangs 2005-present in one of my axle catalogs. If you go back to the Fox body days they mostly used 28 spline axles. If it is anyone's fault that it's so hard to figure out, it's the car manufacturer's. There are some 4x4 trucks which have 3 or 4 axle options on the same truck FRONT AND REAR in the same year. It makes it very hard to know what is what... The problem with the Ford 8.8 is that they don't have a good torque sensing diff other than the True Trac which is a helical, and if you're looking for a cheap helical you can already get the OBX without the extra hassle. I would suggest looking at Dana diffs as they have the PowrLok which is very similar to the Nissan LSD, clutch style, 2 way torque sensitive, and very strong. Dana 44 had a 30 spline axle. I think you'll be making side gears in all likelihood.

Yes, the 280Z stub shafts work with 240-280ZX, 510 and probably some other U jointed halfshafts. The problem for the OP is he has a 240, so he won't have those stub shafts to use, unless someone else already installed an R200 in his car. The yoke is also different, so his driveshaft won't line up. I put a list of parts needed in my big sticky diff post.

Didn't see that one coming. Good luck with the Porsche!

The big problem with them in the front is that they limit the way the suspension moves. As the TC rod swings the caster changes, and the control arm moves back and forth a little bit. The camber bushings try to prevent that movement, so the stress goes somewhere. I think the most likely thing that happens is the crossmember itself flexes back and forth every time the suspension moves. Not good. Even poly I think is better in this spot, rubber is better because it allows that motion to occur more easily, but really a rod end LCA is the best because it will move freely without distorting. In the rear you don't have that problem, so they work better IMO in the back. The problem though is that the inner and outer bushings are different diameters. I can't recall the sizes right now, but lets say you could move the pivot center 3/8" out with the smaller one, and 3/4" out with the larger one. That means in terms of camber you're limited to 3/8" of outward motion, then you can use the larger one to adjust toe. Better than nothing, but not as good as you might think just glancing at them. The real solution is roll the fenders or flare the car or run a narrower wheel, adding negative camber to the Z, which already has too much neg camber in the rear (as compared to the front anyway) is a bad way to get a wheel to fit.

The Z31 has a forged cross with 4 pinions and a factory preload of about 15 lbs. Not sure what is larger in the PB either. I think they're the same size clutches and all that, just different ramp angles and thrust washers and more clutches.

I ordered the panel right above the license plate from zraceproducts. They shipped it out quickly at a good price. I am going with a pin on hatch, and they even deleted the hole for the latch mechanism. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.

Different spline count on the pinion shaft.

There is a thread where bjhines and I were arguing over this, because I had the Z31 diff apart and he had the Power Brute apart. We were both sure that we were right (we were) and the other was wrong (we weren't). You can look and find that thread if you want, but the basic jist is this (maybe bjhines will see this and fill in any gaps in my memory). The Power Brute has more clutches. I think it has more clutches than a Z31 with clutches added. It has more aggressive ramps on the cross pins, so it puts more pressure on the clutch stack. It has thrust washers on the gears, where the Z31 doesn't. I think that's about it. So basically, it's built stronger and more aggressive in every respect. To the Z31 LSD's credit though, apart from people who strip off the clutches, you don't hear too many people complaining about wheel spin with them.

Friction modifier is all the same. The rumor used to be that the Ford "friction modifier" was different than "LSD additive" and that it actually made the clutches more grabby. Not true, they all work the same and reduce chatter out of the LSD.