JMortensen

You're right Cary. Track days are part of the plan later so I already ruled out 4 speeds because I figured out with a 3.54 I'd top out at 125 mph, which just isn't enough top end.

Just playing around with the transmission calculator and it looks like the jump from 4th to 5th is pretty wide on the T45 too. The 6th on the T56 is useless, but the 5th is a more realistic .74 vs .67 to 1.

Not listed as an option, so I'm guessing it's not possible. I suppose I haven't asked yet.

For me the problem with Bakersfield is all the crap in the air from the farming. It all blows down the valley there and gets stuck right over Bakersfield. Supposedly some of the worst air quality in the country right there. Not to mention hotter than hell. Close to Buttonwillow though...

I assumed that the house would be in a place where people would actually want to live.

Background: 5.3L X Prepared autox car, is being built to the full extent of my capability to build it, no holds barred. Right now the chassis is pretty much done, need to finish up some odds and ends on the suspension and bolt it back together and plumb brakes and fuel and electrical. 5.3L from a truck ready to go with 27K miles, bone stock. Still need to change pan for the engine and figure out whether to do FI or carb. Cam/spring/pushrod upgrade planned. I've sold some parts and rubbed some nickels and I've got $$$ for a transmission. I have about $3K. So the question is, do I go with a remanned upgraded Keisler T45 or a used T56. Here's my list of pros and cons for the T45: PROS: New synchros, bearings, etc 5 speed is lighter (weight is king for autox) Don't have to screw around trying to find bits and pieces, it's all there May not have to deal with tunnel clearance issues CONS: Wide gear spacing will probably make 1st unusable Only 25 lbs or so lighter from what I understand Probably a lot more expensive than T56 with all the bits to get it installed. I see T56's going for ~$1500, but not sure how much flywheel/clutch/pp/hydraulics/shifter/driveshaft adds to the total. http://www.keislerauto.com/index.php?/vmchk/mopar/mopar-bare-transmissions/5-speed-manual.html So what do you guys think? I'm torn because I really like the gearing on the Camaro T56 better but it is heavier and I'd have to find one and all the parts to get it installed, etc. Then what if you get a used one and it needs synchros or something. That would be a real bummer. This thing would be lighter, come on a pallet with all necessary parts, and be remanned.

Want to talk yourself out of CA? Try to find a house that you really like, then check the price. Find out what the job situation is like in that area and how the wages are. This was a better test 2 years ago, when a 1400 sq ft house in the city I grew up in was estimated at $750K to $900K. Probably down to $500K, but still, coming from TX I'm sure there will still be a good amount of sticker shock. CA is beautiful, and I spent my first 28 years there. When I left I figured out how much cheaper it is to be in WA. Now I look around and think I should find somewhere cheaper yet. Maybe I'll end up in TX...

It has been discussed. Search for posts by DHale_510.

I think the GC units have the max negative camber because the strut insert is offset as far to the inside as you can get it. I tried putting a TTT upper and GC lower together, and that didn't work because the slot length/placement was different.

Thanks for that info. I think I need to throw out my "ride the crest of the hp curve" theory and get a bigger cam. For instance, if you compare the 228R with the stocker, at 6000 rpm the stocker makes 416hp and the 228R makes 476, and the smaller cam doesn't improve on the larger cam at all until you get all the way down to 4300 rpm. Basically what I'm looking for is the most power from the time you shift from one gear to the next, and it appears that the bigger cams make so much more power than the small ones that it makes sense to get the bigger one even if you can't wind it all the way out. Based on that info the 228R and Torquer 3 look like good choices.

Anyone have a suggestion for an autox/roadrace cam that peaks around 5750 or 6000? Thinking if you can ride the HP curve over the top, and want a redline of 6250 like I do that would be better than a cam that peaks at 6250 and you don't get to ride the top of the curve on shifts. Or is the hp increase so much bigger that this outweighs riding the top of the curve???

Do you know the weight on the Porsche engine? It's been a long time since I worked as a Porsche mechanic, but I seem to recall those suckers are HEAVY, despite the fact that they're aluminum. I'd also be a bit worried about the Z32 trans holding up. Given any thought to a T56?

You bumped a 5 year old thread to make a post that it is a good weight for a 240 even though the posts say 260 and 280? I don't even think Austin is on the same car anymore, definitely not the same motor.

search "diff clunk", and try http://www.classiczcars.com.

I think the scoop goes to the front, and the vanes try to direct the air all around the filter. You don't see exactly the same thing in Tune to Win, but it's not hard to apply the pictures in that book of airboxes and vanes to what is going here.

I'm guessing there is a scoop that goes on top.

FYI, if you're going to make a backing plate for an air filter, the carb spacing from the 1-2 and 2-3 carb is different as well, so don't make a nice template for the first two and then flip it, because you'll ruin your good piece of aluminum...

Owner says he just got it running and is finishing up the rear wing. What he's got there looks pretty good. http://www.speedlab.se/wordpress/

What's your redline, and does the cam peak before the redline?

Battery hold downs and boxes are totally overlooked by your average joe. I put a car out that had a battery fire at an autox, the battery box was too big for his new compact little Honda battery and when he went left the battery slid inside the box and the terminal hit the metal strap in the middle which was supposed to be tight on the battery itself, preventing it from moving. I've also seen a battery fall off of the stock shelf in the engine compartment in a Z and hit the block. That was interesting. Guy comes out of a slalom and there was a loud "BOOF" noise and a bunch of smoke out from the engine compartment. I thought he grenaded the engine. Sad to see a 510 die like that..

Yep. Front of tire hits frame rail or rear of tire hits TC rod usually.

Make some kind of quick release for the window.

Just pull the window out. There's no B pillar in a Z. Or the B pillar is what would commonly be the C pillar if you prefer.

I think most of the windshields that are used in this way are essentially flat and loaded in sheer. The Z windshield is very bowed, and I can't see it doing much good, and would anticipate cracking the windshield. I seem to remember several people cracking the windshield with the rubber gasket in there...

Take the tie rod off. Note how long it is. The rule of thumb is you want 1.5x the diameter inside the tie rod. If you can't get that, then make a new set of tie rods as per the thread I linked to.