JMortensen

I don't think he's talking about the fender liners. I think he's talking about the inner fender, or the area between the strut top and the frame rail. The problem with removing it on a Z is that it is a unibody car, so that is structural. If you built a cage that would support the strut towers then I think some/all of that sheet metal can be removed. If you get into purpose built racecars, a lot of them have no inner fenders, or just a shield to keep whatever gets thrown off the tires from hitting anything important under the hood. Without inner fenders, the low pressure around the wheel well can then be used to reduce the pressure under the car, which will act on the bottom side of the hood and fenders to increase downforce.

Don't take this the wrong way, but you clearly do not know what limited slip and positraction mean. Positraction was GM's name for the Eaton limited slip back in the 60's and 70's. The name has become pretty much synonymous with limited slip differentials. Chrysler had Powr-Lok, Ford had Tru-trak. They are all limited slips. You have an open differential. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential How differentials work: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm Differential description: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential1.htm Open diffs: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm Clutch style limited slip: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm Viscous LSD: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential5.htm Torsen: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential6.htm

Should be 3.70. You can pull the cover and check the ring gear if you want to be sure. It will say 37:10 somewhere on it.

Never seen that one before. Do you have a picture? I've only seen the blade style.

cygnusX1 just posted a mcmaster.com part number for drop in spacers in the OBX sticky thread. The gear bolt size changed about 86 if I recall correctly.

No thanks. I paid my dues to society

Careful there, I think you're doling out SCCA specs, and Garrett is more of an NHRA guy. As I recall the specs are right for the type of racing the cage is designed for.

I bet you're wrong on that. How did you test that it is a limited slip. Did you do a burnout and leave two tire tracks? The Z's do that with open diffs. Do a search and you'll find metric ass tons of info on limited slips here. Yes, that is a technical measurement.

That's F'ing ridiculous. They're nothing special fiberglass flares, and in fact they're aerodynamically backwards (they'd literally do better installed backwards).

http://www.ringpinion.com/FAQ.aspx#14

In thinking about this for a minute, it might be harder to get there on a 280 because from the factory they were higher than the 240s.

Not if you do it right. May not have been the fastest Z in the world, but it didn't handle like crap either. The comparison of the body line to the hubs made me check. Looks like I was right about where the car in the garage is, maybe even lower: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2000-autox-indisde-and-outside-I-think-my_8051.htm To do it right you'll be sectioning struts, running camber plates, compensating for the low roll center, bumpsteer and a bunch of other things. I also ran mine about 3" higher than this on the street and just lowered it for autoxing. It would literally have high centered on most speedbumps the way it was set up in the video.

Those are the MSA IMSA flares. They are NLA, you might get lucky and find a set on ebay, but I wouldn't wait around for them. Consider the MAS flares (not MSA, MAS) or the BAMF ZG flares (sold by a member here) as alternatives.

Here's komonews.com if you want to try and find it there. I looked for a minute and didn't see anything.

http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/crime/2009/02/18/dnt.victim.steals.van.komo

I'd run a ZX distributor before I ran the Mallory. But really, if you're doing it up and going to spend money on ignition, why not get DIS? There are lots of options there and they are a lot more precise than the gear driven distributor.

Do you have a roll cage? If so, you can use one of those clamp on convex disk mirrors on the A pillar tube. If not, you might be able to bolt one to the a pillar itself. Not sure how good they work with the window in place...

If you're determined to use those arms, then DO NOT adjust #1. If you move the arm fore or aft, you'll screw up the relationship between the strut and the camber plate, essentially putting a nasty load on the strut shaft, which transfers through your monoballs to the control arms and the mounts on the inboard end. In fact, I would assemble the suspension, keep the bushing caps loose, then compress the suspension, and THEN tighten down the bushing caps in order to prevent any issues there, ESPECIALLY if you're using a camber plate with a monoball where there is no give (compared to using a rubber isolator on top for example), and then move the suspension by hand through its full range of motion to guarantee that there is no bind in theory. In practice that H arm suspension is unfortunately pretty prone to binding and your suspension components will be dealing with it. 2. For a typical race Z you'd probably want the control arms as high as you could get on the inboard pivot to get the roll center back up (this assumes a very lowered car). This unfortunately gives maximum leverage on the bracket to try and spin that gold bracket piece in the bushing caps and also minimizes track width. I realize there is a 1/4" bolt keeping that from rotating, but that doesn't convince me that it is not a problem. 3. Track width can be minimally adjusted with the rod ends. Aurora suggests 1.5x the thread be enclosed, which on a 5/8" rod end means you have about 5/16" adjustment before you exceed Aurora's recommendation: http://www.aurorabearing.com/technical-resources/faqs/default.html So you have a max adjustment there of 5/8" per arm, not considering whatever toe setting you're looking for. 4. You'll need to see where you're at first. I don't think your likely to get both rod ends in exactly the same depth front and rear. Each 180 degree rotation of the rod end will give approx 1/8" of toe change.

If you're drag racing you might consider welding it or getting a limited slip of some kind. The cross pin is the thing that fails on the R200. If you're not drag racing you should be fine I think.

If the tensioner really fell out I think it would make more than an intermittent ticking noise. For this reason I doubt that it came all the way out. Or it came out when he had the timing cover off, and we're all assuming that he changed the cam without pulling the cover. If he had the cover off, yeah, it's pretty easy to get the tensioner back in. When I hear schneider cam and valve noise, my immediate reaction is to think that the cam is losing a lobe.

I've seen both of these cars up close in person in the states. I used to work in this industrial complex and this really rich guy had rented one of the buildings to house his huge rally car collection. He would take some of the stored ones out and tear ass around the parking lot every once in a while to get rid of the cobwebs. His Delta was the full race version. He had a Renault Turbo II and a bunch of Peugeots and a whole lot of others that I couldn't identify. The R200 he actually drove on the street. When a friend and I asked him about it he said he had an F40 but it wasn't fast enough, so he bought the RS200 and had it modded to 800 hp, and that it did 0-60 in 1.8 sec. It was painted yellow with a skull and crossbones on the doors and hood. Pretty mean looking car. It also could be shifted from front wheel drive to all wheel drive to rear wheel drive on the fly. BTW I think the one you are showing there is the non-EVO. At least I'm used to seeing "ears" on the roof mounted intercooler on the EVO version. I could be wrong on that, not an expert or anything...

Is it possible that the reaction disc isn't sealing to it's little hole in the booster? After all that, I'd probably try another booster, since you've already tried 4 masters.

See for yourself: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130005

I've been throwing them away, so I don't have one currently. Like I said before though, if you find the best sale price on a given item, that is likely the price you would find in the Insider's Track club. I can think of 2 examples right off the top of my head. The cobalt drill bit index (the big one) was on sale for $39.99, and the auto-darkening welding helmet with the flames was $49.99.

I think you had said previously that bumps cause the strut towers to bend in towards the car centerline which makes sense. I was just making the point that the bend out under cornering loads, because the pressure on the tire is pulling the bottom of the tire in.