JMortensen

Those aren't really vortex generators, they're flow diverters (I'm sure there is a better term here that I don't know). They are trying to steer some of the air out from under the car through the fender and wheel, not trying to produce a vortex to smooth the airflow under the car..

The picture looks like a headgasket. The description doesn't say what the thickness of it is, unless I missed it. As far as I can see it would have all the same drawbacks of a thicker headgasket. Shimming the cam towers would be my preferred method of fixing the timing chain slack and cam timing issues.

Try disconnecting the rear sway bar. You only need to remove the end link from one side, then drive it again. If that doesn't do enough to even it out then you may consider a softer spring in the rear.

I've run stock, 14, and 13. I wouldn't go back to a 14, 13 is the way to go in my opinion. I found at autox I would end up smacking the door panel a lot with the larger wheel.

From CA, don't know if that would explain why the windshield was cheaper. Now live way over on the east side. Close to Monroe on the 522.

It still helps to lube the poly. They come with a silicone lube, but it gets squeezed out or used up fairly quickly. I installed zerks in the outer ends of the rear control arms to lube them up and it worked pretty well with typical moly chassis grease. Energy Suspension told me that the moly would be fine when I asked them. I tried zerks on the inner bushings, but the cups aren't tight so the grease just squeezed out through the cup. You can also trim the poly if it is too long for a particular spot, and you can shim under the straps to reduce the amount of pressure on the bushing so that it can move more smoothly (works well for sway bar bushings, not sure I'd do this on control arm bushings).

When I first got my Z I had my windshield replaced because it was so pitted you could barely see through it. A week later a white SUV was driving in the other lane and I watched the rock fling off his tire and come straight at me (I ducked, but didn't try to catch it for the record). It made a hellaciously loud noise and yeah, it scared the piss out of me too. At that time a new windshield was about $150, and I had them reuse the old gasket, since that was replaced with all of the rest of the weather stripping. Your new gasket will not come with new stainless trim, and tell the guy doing the install to install the trim BEFORE they install the gasket. Maybe you'll get extra lucky and get a nice big scratch in your cowl like I did!!!

Closing it is not a bad idea.

He hasn't sold that tube frame since the early 90s, or at least hasn't advertised it since then.

I think Arizona Z Car makes the billet arms because lots of people have a big hard on for billet. You should have seen all the posts when those came out. People really liked them. I'm sure they sold a bunch. You might check out my thread on TC relocation as it shows a modified stock arm. Bjhines did the same thing, and I think 240hoke did too. Lots of us have modded stock arms successfully and made our own TC rod so that we don't have to use bushings anymore. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120666 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107794

Good instincts. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758

Theoretically that shouldn't happen. The inner sleeve should rotate inside the poly bushing. In practice poly has a buttload of stiction, and that's why you need to bounce the car around to settle the suspension. As for tearing the bushing, don't know that I've ever seen that one...

I've had that same thought. It would be a huge undertaking, but the time may well be coming...

No reason at all, just trying to figure out what effect it would have and whether that could possibly be beneficial. Or, to say another way, I had the spacers in place from the old control arm when I made the jig. Putting the spacers in there made me consider the effect that the spacers had (keeping the strut perpendicular to the control arm), and also that this is no longer necessary. So then I thought what would happen if I made the control arm so that the rod end was further back?

I went ahead and made the jig 15". I won't have all the parts ready for another week or so, so if you have a good argument to change it I'm all ears. I have another idea which I'm not sure is worth following up. I could move the bottom of the strut back 1/2" or so. I don't think I have room to move it forwards just because the tires would be pretty close to the fenderwells, but back is a possibility. I think this would make the spring rate and shock damping more progressive because as the shock compresses it gets more straight up and down, so I'm thinking that's probably the end of that idea. It is possible with this type of arm to do it and not bind everything up.

Search spindle pin for info on the link. You don't need to take the strut off of the control arm to change the struts. You can either pull the strut insert out of the strut tube with the control arm still attached to the car (just pull the strut down out of the fenderwell), or you can pull the control arm and the strut off the car together to work on it off of the car if you prefer. There is really no reason to pull the spindle pin unless you want to change the bushings. It's a big PITA and there is a special tool that you can buy from several people here or at classiczcars.com called a spindle pin puller. Very worthwhile tool to have...

It's the fact that the car is on the rotisserie still that makes it a bitch to check.

Next time use a more descriptive title. Changing it for you.

I'm struggling with this one. I don't want to run the threads too far out on the rod ends, even though they are 3/4" rod ends... I'm thinking I may go 1/2" wider than stock, and then I can thread the ends out another 1/4" without worrying if needed.

Heavier oil might build up more heat. The additive alone should fix your problem.

You should have a closed spring rate and an open spring rate that are "reasonable". I can't remember what "reasonable" is, it's been years since I dealt with this last, but running the springs more compressed like that will mean that the seat pressure is higher and basically you're looking at more wear on the cam and rockers as a result. I would suggest that you find out what is reasonable and where you are. You'll need to find a shop with a valve spring rate tester.

The worst one I've experienced is the Chrysler Powr-Lok, the ramps are very aggressive and they have severe chatter. I've had them take up to 3 tubes of additive to stop. That's always what we recommended to get them to stop when I worked at Randy's Ring and Pinion, and I never had a customer say that their diff had trouble from running more additive. I think the Ford stuff is the "densest" as a bottle of it is only 4 oz, so if you really have to add a lot that might be the least amount of actual oil displaced by the additive. John makes a good point, if you want less lockup, you can change the clutch stack. The clutches work basically the same way a multiple clutch works in a car or a motorcycle. You have the disks and the plates. If you stack them up plate-disk-plate-disk-plate-disk then you'll get the most grip out of it. You could alternatively do plate-plate-disk-disk-plate-disk and get basically 2/3 as much grip or plate-plate-plate-disk-disk-disk and get 1/3. It's a bit of a PITA to pull it all apart to adjust it, but it can be done. I don't really get how they measure the 100% vs 80% thing, but in terms of stacking the clutches differently that's how you do it. This thread shows the stack in detail: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117818

Depends on what tire you're running and what you're doing. I'm road racing and autoxing with slicks, so I had figured that I'd probably need between 2 and 3 degree neg camber in the back. That's an estimate and what I actually do will depend on what the tire temperatures tell me.

Tom was nice enough to respond to my PM, his shafts are 7/8" shorter than stock. I'm not so sure about the 4 degrees neg camber though. I was able to run less than 2 degrees camber in the rear previously and I didn't have the Ground Control camber plates adjusted all the way out. How much camber do you figure adding say .75 to the control arm will add? I seem to remember that the camber adjusting bushings adjusted about 1 or 1.5 degree in the back, and I don't have a set to measure the offset. I know it was different front and rear, but I want to say the front was about .5" offset, and I think I ran them towards the outside of the range...

Lowering a Z increases the negative camber. Not sure why you would have positive camber unless the drivetrain was out of the car or something like that.