JMortensen

Nice twinkie blast!

You can email tilton and they'll give you master sizes to try first.

Please try to use proper capitalization. You said you tried at the master and at the wheel cylinders, and the proportioning valve. The clog could be anywhere between the master and the prop valve. Is the prop valve in the 73 in front or in back? If it's in back, there is a lot of line in between. If you pulled the line going into the prop valve and got flow, but got no flow out, then you could say that the valve is the culprit. Not sure about the later prop valves, but the early ones can be disassembled and cleaned. Don't remove it. The valve is there for a reason. It reduces the line pressure to the wheel cylinders. If you take it out, you'll have more line pressure at the wheel cylinders, which means that you may lock up the rear brakes before the fronts. Locking the rears first is a good way to spin the car. Nissan engineered that valve to work with that braking system. You should not remove it unless you replace it with another proportioning valve from a like system, or an adjustable one.

Gearing info for diffs: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-471925.html Gearing info for t-case: http://www.purenissan.com/t-case_gears.htm I would think that the t-case gears would take care of the issue entirely. I suggest you try and get a ride in a rig that has a modded t-case before you go swapping drivelines. As it says in the ad, the gearing makes the t-case 93% lower than stock. That is going to make a huge difference on the trail. Couple that with diff gears, and you just don't need that much power on the trail. FWIW, my buddy with the Toyota has converted his to diesel, and is now adding a turbo. We talked about turbos and he said that with stock gearing and a powerful engine the turbo will spool up and that's potentially dangerous on the rocks, but with the super low gears he has he doesn't ever expect the turbo to spool since there isn't enough load on the engine. Plus his is a mid 80's 4 cylinder diesel, so even though he has modded his he doesn't expect more than 120 hp.

You have a blockage in the lines somewhere. I'd pull the wheel cylinders off and stand on the brake pedal and see if you can bust it loose. Then run a bunch of fluid through the lines so that you hopefully get whatever it is out, then hook up the wheel cylinders and bleed as normal. Alternatively you could pull the brake lines off and clean them out off of the car, or just replace them.

Based on my own experience trying to adjust bias with Toy fronts and 280ZX rears, I think you're going in the right direction by switching to duals. You may consider modding the stock pedal box or buying one of Coffey's pre built brackets rather than buying that pedal assy and then having to figure out how to mount it.

You might consider gearing down to get more power to the wheels. I suppose a lot depends on what kind of wheeling you're doing. I've been through the Rubicon in a Toyota 4 cylinder with 35's, 4.58 gears, and dual transfer cases and the truck had no lack of power for any of the obstacles. I think they were rated at 108 hp or somewhere thereabouts. We were rock crawling though... mud bogging or some other type of off roading would obviously be a bit different.

How about some punctuation and capitalization?

Changed your title. We want titles to be descriptive enough that people don't have to open the thread to figure out what it is about. 240zchevyv8, please use some punctuation in the future. Now that that's all done, I'd personally ditch the stick and get a mig. It may be possible to do the patching with the stick, but I think you'll spend lots of time afterwards on bodywork trying to get everything smooth. That statement is based on my own limited experience with stick welding.

Again, I think we need to realize that there is more than one use for a VG. With the air tabs installed on a semi, the idea is not to keep the flow attached to the surface. Instead the idea is to keep the flow "organized" as you put it to allow it to cross the huge gap between the truck and the trailer more smoothly and reduce drag. So if Richard wanted to use them at the back of his splitter to keep the flow organized and reduce drag of air hitting the suspension and chassis underneath I think that very well may work. It may also make a rear diffuser more effective. Alternatively if there were a control surface under the car a VG may make that surface more effective (thinking duct here, but could be anything trying to make use of the airflow underneath). I think maybe you're just taking me too literally regarding VG's on the sides of cars. You may not see a typical VG stuck directly to the side of a car, but formula cars use lots of little vortex generators and "flow directors" all over to direct the flow to the radiators and rear wing. More info: http://www.airtab.com/Files/MIRA3.pdf

I'll second this, especially after reading you installed poly bushings. Here's a related thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758

VG's on wings allow the flaps to work at higher angles of attack by preventing the flow of air from separating from the wing. It energizes the air that hits the flaps. It's a different use altogether. Correlates well to using them on the top to get better airflow to the wing or spoiler, but not to the bottom. VG's can lower the air pressure by design, like when used in a diffuser, and maybe this is what you're thinking of trying to use them for, but just sticking them on the bottom at the back of your splitter I don't think is going to have that effect. I think the airtabs usage correlates better for the bottom. Airtabs are used on semis to smooth the airflow past the large gap from the tractor to the trailer, and around the wheel openings. I would expect that this would be the kind of thing you'd be looking to do. A reminder of the airtab usage on the bottom of the Insight: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3061/article.html That's how I'm seeing it, although I am not an expert by any means.

There was also that article in the original aero thread where they put VGs on the leading edge of a Honda Insight air dam and got better mpg. I think the theory was that it helped the air to flow past the rough undercarriage. The strakes of a diffuser are also vortex generators in many cases. Lots of formula cars have VGs all over the sides, I think the bottoms are flat because the rules state they have to be.

Its commonly done in the GT classes. FP autoxers do it too. 2" back is the rule limit for GT (or it used to be), but you can actually move it closer to 4" back before hitting the firewall. Here is an old thread dealing with the issue: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85075 And here's what I got when I searched "setback" in the 6 cylinder forum (the L6 forum was a later division of the 6 cylinder forum, I guess not everything got transferred over). Searching using the google search: http://www.google.com/custom?client=pub-3543793485173468&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23336699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3A336699%3BALC%3A0000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A126%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Fimages%2Fmisc%2Fvbulletin3_logo_white.gif%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2F%3BFORID%3A1&domains=forums.hybridz.org%3Bclassifieds.hybridz.org%3Balbum.hybridz.org&hl=en&q=l6+setback&sitesearch=forums.hybridz.org You'll have to dig around a bit. I know preith has some pics, maybe he'll share... http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=2180631

The answer is no. You can check if the timing is close to stock, but aftermarket cams sometimes aren't ground with 0 degrees as 0 degrees. As Clifton said, they can be 4 degrees off by design, and they are sold with the assumption that the person installing it will time it and make sure it is degreed right. That's why you get a cam card with a new cam. I expect your stumbling and popping is probably related to the EFI or EI and not the cam, but in order to do the cam right you have to take the time to do it right.

Changed title. In the future make them descriptive so that when people are searching they don't have to open your thread to figure out what it is about.

Is this a joke?

Here's an interesting conversation on a part that increases camber recovery on the back of a 911: EDIT-FIXED LINK: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=321152 I think CLE has it right when he says:

When you put it that way, I'd say no. That amount of camber change would require a really short control arm and would put some weird camber thrust on the tires. It would probably be really hard to drive in a straight line on anything but a glassy smooth road. If you have a car that only rolls one degree at max lateral acceleration (formula car, etc), then I'd say the answer is more likely to be yes. I think the modern idea with radial tires is to minimize the amount of camber change and then set static camber to where it works best around corners, and hopefully that doesn't screw you too badly in the longitudinal acceleration department, hence touring cars running 5+ degrees of negative camber. With the old bias ply slicks you can get away with a lot less camber and so I think they'd be less sensitive to camber recovery. Then you have that Mercedes F400. If you're leaning BOTH sets of tires into the turn, it appears that you want them leaning at different angles, and that would make sense given weight transfer and the relative loading on each tire. http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/top-2002-Mercedes-Benz-F400-Carving-Concept.htm

What kind of tires?

Since it wasn't the CV that broke I think what you'll be most interested in is the material the axle is made from and the diameter. I don't know which is bigger, but Ross @ Modern Motorsports was saying that he could custom make the CV axles and I'm sure he can do 4340 or some upgraded steel there.

Is Racer Brown still in business? Perhaps you could contact them...

For the record, I thought the first ZX to get 5 lug hubs was the 85 300ZX.

Glad to hear it got resolved. Since we didn't get any tech, I'm going to move the thread to the non-tech board.

This seems like a non-tech post, but it may get a little techy so I'll leave it here for now. What you have is obviously shipping damage, and DHL should pay for the damage. Usually a claim is placed by the shipper, DHL comes out and gets the item and inspects it. They then cut a check to the shipper, and they either reship you a new item or refund you. I would expect that it would not be hard to find the output shaft at a junkyard, so you may consider that as an alternative to going through the hassle with the shipper. Maybe the seller might pay for the part to avoid the hassle of making a claim.