JMortensen

It is a real advantage to be able to flip the car all the way upside down. 3 HF engine stands and a bit of scrap metal can be made into a rotisserie tall enough to flip the car.

I don't think you can appraise it yourself and really have it mean anything. Theoretically if you have an agreed value the idea is that you pay the insurance company the premiums for a $15K car, so they really shouldn't care what it is. Unfortunately it doesn't really work that way in real life so you'll need some proof of what you have. I took all my receipts with me when I got mine appraised and that was basically how it got a value that high, because it didn't look like much.

I have classic car insurance from State Farm with an agreed value of $15K. I got the agreed value by going and getting an appraisal, then taking it to the insurance company. There is some wiggle room for them, but I should have enough documentation to get what I want in the event anything bad happens. I think my policy runs $60 every 6 months. I'm 33 and haven't had a ticket in over 10 years.

You might want to search "E12-80" and see what comes up. One thing with these distributors that is pretty much always wrong is the vacuum advance is broken. Also, when using electronic ignition you no longer want to use the ballast resistor, so you can just make a little jumper wire to connect to both sides. Then you'll make full use of your better spark.

Toe angle to inch conversion: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126700 If your alignment machine is a Hunter, you can choose to display in either format, you just have to select the inches in the right screen (I can't give any more detail than that as it's been 10 years since I did my last alignment). Your rear is obviously off compared to the front. The negative toe value is toe out. Toe out in the rear is not good, especially with semi-trailing arm rear suspension. You could look into slotting the crossmember to get some adjustability back there to fix. If I were you and everything were adjustable I'd try more toe in up front, like 1/8" total toe in, and more neg camber if you can get any, maybe -1 or -1.5 degree or so. Then work on the rear and try to match them up more or less to the front settings. 3/16" toe in out back works well on the semi-trailing arm setup, get rid of the squishy rubber bushings back there on the arms too. If you really want it to handle well, get rid of the subframe bushings that attach the crossmember to the chassis and replace with aluminum or poly. This stuff is all fairly common in the 510 world, you can look there for more answers too.

Dorman, that's what my 2nd gen RX7 studs were. I had my stub axles out (swapped in 280 axles) so it wasn't an issue for me. I see from your control arm thread that you have rear disk brakes. If you don't have a caliper bracket that goes all the way around the stub axle then you should be able to squeeze the studs in. If you do, then you'll have to pull the stub axle. For those with drums, you can drill a hole large enough to feed the stud through the backing plate.

Very nicely done Myron. Be careful adjusting the track width too much though. You want no more exposed thread than is absolutely necessary on those rod ends. The rule of thumb is 1.5x the thread diameter, which on a typical 5/8" rod end means that you can move them out 5/16". If you wanted to make the arms significantly longer the thing to do would be to move the tube out that holds the rod end or make the triangle bigger, then use a longer turnbuckle in back.

What you've described works better for reducing drag, less well for creating a low pressure area in the wheel well according to just about everything I've read. If you're talking about NASCAR where the fender ends several inches past the tire, then I'd agree, although even they say that a concave shape to the fender in front of the wheel well will generate more downforce than a convex shape. The reason why is the lip in front of the wheel well does exactly the same thing as the lip in front of a vent. You can see these kinds of raised lips in front of vents on all kinds of race cars, either as a straight lip in front of a vent like this air dam, or a raised louver. It makes the air flow tumble, and that turbulence creates more low pressure than would otherwise be created by a smoother airflow.

Sounds like it might be a non-issue. I don't have too much experience in this area though...

My current ones are ARP. I had others that I got from the local hardware store previously. They were the typical orange boxed parts that you find behind the counters of most auto parts stores, with all the freeze plugs, etc. I can't recall the name. Anyway both sets were threaded all the way down.

I don't think filler would be a problem if it weren't bondo. I wouldn't want to drill through bondo, but with some of the higher quality epoxy and fiberglass fillers should be no big deal.

There are good reasons to have a big lip in front of the tire instead of a smooth wider air dam without a lip in front of the tire. That lip will create a lot of low pressure in the wheel well. It will produce more drag, but potentially more downforce there as well. There was an article in Racecar Engineering a couple years back where they were testing various different air dams on a BTCC Civic and they ended up with something that looked quite similar to what zr240 has made.

Why do ALL members need to read this? Seems like you want CA members to read it. Changing title.

Wow. That looks like it transitions amazingly well and is running super flat. I noticed in your second video that you appeared to pull the RF front tire at :37 and the RR rear at :41. It's a bit hard to tell for sure because the concrete is so washed out with the sunlight. Anyway just thought I'd mention it and see if you had noticed or cared. Pics of droop limiters??? Please.

My guesses are ride comfort and ease of assembly.

No domestic companies make LSDs or lockers for the Nissan diffs, at least none did several years ago when I was selling diff parts.

On casters still...

Looks like the Central Coast Z Car Club is still active. They did all the same stuff in the same area. You might want to hook up with those guys. http://ccmw.cc/forum/index.php

I can't see renting a tranny jack to pull a gas tank. Drain it and the thing will weigh 10 lbs or so. I take off all the hoses you can get at with it installed, then lower it down a bit and take the rest of them off. Not a very difficult job.

Well, we KNOW that one is wrong. I've spent quite a bit of time PERSONALLY explaining that it is wrong. You can look up examples if you like, but I can tell you that I've explained that you need the 240SX OPEN replacement LSD vs VLSD replacement at least 10 times. Maybe more. I quantified that I didn't KNOW. Perhaps I should have said that I was "pretty sure", because I am. I think I remembered someone buying the LSD from Calmini, but searched and couldn't find that thread. On the other hand, "I read somewhere" to me means that you think you know the correct answer. You may find that to be a slight difference, or splitting hairs, I think it's an important one for people looking for information through the database.

Haven't done this before, but it sounds similar to pulling out a stubborn snap ring. I'd probably try with a straight pick and a hook pick, one to pry it out of the groove and the other to pull it out.

Changed title.

Check the reaction disk.

Let's drop the politics or this goes to the shed.

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