JMortensen

Yes. Was there any reason for you to think otherwise?

Changing title. I realize you probably didn't know what to call it, but "where can I buy one of these" is not a good thread title for others searching the database.

Does he realize that in CA he's responsible for getting it to pass smog to transfer the title to the new owner?

Yeah, but my opinion is the only one that matters.

Sounds like the ground effects F1 cars from the old days. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

The key to making diffusers actually function is to get the strakes close to the ground. On a street car, that is also likely to get them knocked off, but if you want it functional, put it as low as you dare.

I always heard it as "Fun to ride, so long as your buddies don't catch you."

My experience with scooters is pretty limited. Had a couple Yomamahas when I was a kid and they topped out at about 35mph downhill with a tailwind. My buddy had a YSR and it would do 50 pretty easily if I recall correctly. I think its the transmission efficiency that was the difference more than anything else. Plus you get those guys who swap in a YZ80 engine... That'd be fun. My other suggestion is a small enduro street/dirt bike. I don't know if you can even get those anymore, seems like they only make the bigger ones street legal. My first motorcycle was a '76 XL70. It would do 55-60, at least that's fast enough to not feel like you're going to get run over leaving every stop light...

How about a YSR?

MG Midget Triumph Spitfire Nash Metro Bugeye Sprite Original Mini Cooper If you can find or afford one: Lotus Elan Lotus Europa If your looking at 240Z's which are 2350 lbs, you could probably consider the following (not sure, but guessing they'll be in the same ballpark): MG A or B MG TC or TD (that would be a sleeper) Triumph TR2, 3, 4, 6

He probably wasn't running any friction modifier. Good deal for you!

The ring gear and pinion count should be stamped right on the edge of the ring gear. If they are 3.15's or 3.36s (or something else similarly tall) that is very good for you.

Did you buy your car from a land speed record racer? How did you determine that the other diff has 3.15 gears?

Search here and classiczcars.com. There is a guy doing it with Mikuni bike carbs, supposedly better than the PHH series, although as said above, the PHH's are basically 6 carburetors, each cylinder has its own throat and jets.

I think that will be fine. The one issue that I would point out is that those tube ends you have are chromoly if I'm not mistaken, and you're welding them to mild steel. They also have the long taper. You can get mild steel ends from Coleman racing that don't have the long taper, and that would allow the other tubes to connect closer to the rod end, which should be stiffer in theory. EDIT--Just re-read the previous page where it says you're using chromoly tubing. So then the chromoly tubing is welded to the original mild steel from the control arm. I don't think that is really a problem, but I don't have too much experience with chromoly.

This is a pretty common question, especially with V8 guys not running overdrive transmissions. The ring and pinion gears which set the ratio in the diff aren't the LSD, it's the carrier that the ring gear bolts to that is the LSD. You can swap the LSD onto any longnose R200 ring gear (search "ring gear bolt spacer" for more info on this). The problem is going to be finding a gear set. 3.15's are super rare, 3.36's are rare. 3.54's are common but that isn't much taller than what you already have.

I can't recall the exact weight, but I think the Toy calipers for the solid rotor weighed out at 2 lbs heavier than the stockers. I was pretty shocked when I figured that out.

Changed title. Col, in the future be more specific so that people can look at the thread title and know what it is about without opening it. Thanks.

Those panels look FLAT. Nice work!

If the front one is solid, then the control arm's "main" attachment point is at the front. If the rear one is solid, then it is at the rear. This is true because the tie rod really just changes toe. The solid mount connects the strut to the control arm. Dan and I have this theory that if the rear one is the solid one that vertical forces from the wheel will travel straight up the strut (since the rear rod end will be directly under the strut tube). If the front one is solid then the load hits the strut housing at the front, not directly underneath the strut tube. Putting the weight of the vehicle on the suspension will make the strut want to rock backwards. The rear tie rod does nothing to prevent the twist because it can articulate freely. So our theory is that having the solid rod end at the rear and the tie rod at the front is the best way to go. Not everyone is convinced, but it still makes sense to me. I will say that Cary's design with the solid mount in the front and the tie rod in the rear makes his probably the sexier looking control arm.

The one with the female threads is the correct nut for the intended application, VW Rabbit. Also, as explained on p13, it is the A1 that fits the 240Z housing. The Q1 doesn't fit.

My brother had a Baja Bug in high school. The things that I remember most are positive camber on the rear making me nervous when he'd drive it too fast around corners, and trying to push it through the mud hole my brother was sure we'd make it through. There is a hell of a lot of aftermarket for those things, and in the day he had very little money to invest in it. It might be a fun project with enough money to throw at it.

I had the idea that dave was going to do just what you said and use just the threaded portion of the 240 tube. Interesting bit about the 280Z struts. I don't suppose you tested any that had a gusset between the spindle and the strut tube...

I'm confused. I thought that is what he said he was going to do. What's with the compliance testing bit? Fill us in please...

If you search you'll find that this topic has been discussed before at length in regards to Pop N Wood's project. Needless to say FI is not the only answer.