JMortensen

I ***AM NOT SURE*** that the ones I have will fit a 280. If the diameter is correct I am sure that they could be used without having to cut them down. They have 6 threads so they're just a tiny bit longer than the ones you cut down. Just for the sake of argument, couldn't the strut housing be sectioned shorter and the nut left at its regular length? The nut is a lot thicker than the strut housing, so presumably there would be no loss of strength there.

Huh? That's the one you have. You had to cut them. I think mine might be the right one for a 280, and it is the correct length, but is not the correct diameter. The ones I get will be just like the ones you have, hopefully...

Thank you Jeff. The ones I have are the right length, but are too large in diameter. The Q1 makes all the difference...

Look through the sticky posts in this forum and search. You won't find a "best", but I think what you'll find is that any of them can be built. You probably want to avoid the N47 because if you're really building it to the hilt you won't want the exhaust liners. Machining the head is up to you. Cam tower spacers are available, my local machinist had them on the shelf but I think some of the cam manufacturers have them if you can't find them locally.

Does anyone have the EXACT part number for the Bilstein gland nut? I got some here, they are B30-629 Q1 and they are about 2mm too big. Might be the right one for a 280 strut, but they definitely don't fit a 240...

Looks like a custom roll bar to me unless it was imported. The diagonal is in backwards for a left hand drive car. The brace should attach to the hoop above the driver's head.

They really aren't that square when you look at them, so if you're trying to get something really perfect you will probably be disappointed. If you cut off the flange there you'd have to weld the corner when you boxed them in. I don't think there is anything too wrong with that, so long as your welds are good. An alternative would be to make a new arm out of square, rectangle, or round tube, although that is obviously more complex...

Use a setting on the welder that is really on the high end for the sheet metal. Start your weld on the SFC's and drag the puddle onto the floor.

The bar is an MSA 1" bar, nothing unusual there. The arms are ~11" long but there is another bend between the arm and the center of the bar. Add them both together and you get ~13.5" from the outer hole in the adjustable end to the center, I just went out and eyeballed it against a ruler. The workbench has a 3/4" plastic cutting board top. It's actually a food preparation table that I bought from a restaurant that was closing down. I was aware that this top might be a problem so I set the bar across the stainless welded frame of the table, and set the scale in one corner. I don't think table flex is the problem. I measured deflection at each of the three end link holes, or as close as I could get. I didn't measure at the end of a longer lever. My end links are mounted on the car directly in the center of the stock sway bar mount holes, so there will be no difference there.

I did not heat treat the bar, but I also didn't heat the center part much at all. I think if anything had lost it's temper it would be maybe the last 3" on each side. My rate was measured by only moving one side of the bar 1", so the rate for moving both sides one inch would be doubled, but that still isn't anywhere near what the calculations say.

I don't think so. I checked the measurements in the FSM a couple weeks ago when someone PM'd me to ask if they were different. Everything around the rear had the same measurements.

What did the calculations say the rate of your 1" bar was? Did you use the 300 something in/lb number that I was telling you I thought was wrong? It sounds like you did. What I'm getting at is: the weight transfer worksheet seems to work with the incorrect spring rate that it calculates for the swaybar. If that is the case I should be using it's value for the swaybar rate even though I know it is incorrect.

Dan and I traded emails about the front sway bar rate and how that would affect his front spring choice. My experiment showed that my one inch sway bar had a rate of about 105-120 in/lbs per inch of bar movement. So Dan, your experience seems to contradict my sway bar theory I guess. Did you ever measure your sway bar rate, or did you just go with what you had already decided on? I still haven't ordered springs...

The idea behind the summit piston deal is that they're custom, so you specify your bore size, pin height and diameter and your ring land sizes and they build it for you. When you ask for Nissan 240SX pistons, suddenly the price jumps.

A couple years ago it was $463 I think. I also thought that the block would need to be sleeved to go with the 240SX pistons, but that info should be in the older threads on this subject so if you're unsure it shouldn't be hard to find the answer.

There must be an offset difference due to the larger diameter rim. I'm trying to fit a 15x12 under that 3" flare. I'm already expecting that I'll have to chop and modify the flare. I know you can move the wheel in because you have more clearance on the inside due to the larger diameter, but I was also rubbing the inner fender at full bump with my smaller diameter 15's, so I'm still a bit confused as to how this all works out. Clifton was fitting a 275 under a stock fender on his silver car if I recall, and his was rubbing a bit on the inside. Did you pull the spring and compress the suspension and check for clearance? Does it rub on the inside?

You've seen the Ross racing piston deal through Summit Racing that has been posted before, right? I figure you would have based on the threads you've been looking up. Full set of 6 with pins and retainers somewhere in the $400's last time I checked. Just specify what you need and don't say Nissan and you'll be good to go...

Fidanza makes a 225mm flywheel. At least they used to. I'm 99.9999999% sure.

No problem. Here's a better one: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?&p=3&uid=2927792&gid=10145811&&imgid=219714571#top There is another one floating around where you can see how they did the back of the tube. It basically protrudes about 1/2" into the wheel well and is welded to a probably 6" x 6" square plate. The plate is welded to the wheel well and the tube is welded to the plate and capped. I can't find it on his site.

viperredls1z had 2x2 square tubes welded into the rockers on the red car. I know there has been some talk about this before, I thought there were pictures of that modification previously. You might see if you can dig through the archives and find it. I think its a really good idea and that the cage should tie directly into the tube inside the rocker if possible, rather than attaching to the floor or a box tied to the floor.

The tire size and the ruler measurements posted earlier can be misleading. Flares don't usually get mounted so that the lip sticks out perpendicular to the body, which I think is why the measurement is misleading. If I had to guess, I'd say the one with the tape measure is probably a 3" flare. I have a very common bubble flare for my car, and it is a 3" flare but measured from the mounting flange to the lip probably gets 6 or 7 inches. The tire size quoted earlier is also misleading in my opinion. Pinching a wide tire on a narrow rim might allow the tire to fit within the flare, but doing that to the extent necessary to fit a 335 under the flares pictured would require using a narrow rim that isn't the "right" size for the tire (not recommended by the tire manufacturers if nothing else). A 335 should probably go on a 12 or 13 inch rim (check with the tire manufacturer for your preferred brand), and I do not think that a rim that wide will fit inside any of the flares talked about here. Assuming that a 12 or 13 won't fit, then the aforementioned 16x14" wheel won't fit under the flares in this thread or the works flares either. That is a seriously huge wheel and tire and I'd bet dollars to donuts that it will require something a bit more aggressive. Clifton's thread on fitting 15x14 wheels with 350mm wide rears is particularly useful for the gigantic rear tire crowd. In my opinion he got it exactly right. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=842149

There are two issues with your post. 1. If it is in the tech section, then it should have a descriptive title so that people can have an idea of what it is about so that they don't have to open it to find out when searching. 2. This does not belong in the tech section. Moving to non-tech.

The ball bearing is not the only bearing in the diff. Most differentials don't even have a pilot bearing, and those that do often have it at the other end of the pinion gear (like a Ford 9"). The load from the gears driving on each other are enormous, and a ball bearing, especially a single row bearing, wouldn't be the best choice to deal with such loading. In my time selling diff parts I can think of only one differential that had ball bearings taking the thrust load, and it was an OLD (1940s or 1950s) GM one ton truck. It used a 4 or 5 row ball bearing that was hyper-expensive and hard to get. Everything else I've ever seen uses a tapered roller, and that makes a lot of sense because they are so much better equipped to deal with the type of loading we're talking about. The tapered roller bearings take the load from the pinion trying to walk off the ring gear in the R200. When the pinion tries to push off of the ring gear towards the front of the case, it presses the tapered roller bearing with the blue race in the attachment. The blue race is pressed into the case, thus the case absorbs the load from the pinion. The pilot is just along for the ride. In reverse the smaller green race takes the load. The "pinion bearing adjusting spacer and washer" define the preload of those bearings. Once that distance is set, nothing that goes on after them affects it (except a loose pinion nut--been there done that). The bearings are seated in their races, which are seated in the case and and that is where the forces trying to drive the pinion off the ring gear are concentrated. Unless there is some abnormal slop in the bearings or the spacer is wrong, the pilot is just along for the ride and is centering the incredibly long pinion in the housing. The reason for the pilot bearing in this diff is the extreme length of the pinion gear. The difference is pretty extreme! See for yourself: R series ring and pinion: Ford ring and pinion:

I'm not sure how the Weber jets are marked, but I wanted to give you a warning. I've got reams and drills, and I've quickly forgotten what is what. Best to buy the correct jets.

Maybe the buyers came to their senses when they realized they were writing a check for over $250,000 for a Z car...