JMortensen

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Just my opinion, but that's a serious waste of effort when you can just shim the LSD you have.

Track width is measured from the middle of the tire. Or, measure from the outside of the tread width then subtract the width of one tire.

I don't know if it was water or oil in the air line, or if I just didn't get it clean enough or what. I don't think Acetone leaves a residue, but even if it does, it's what I thinned the paint with, so I don't think it would be a problem. I had read about wax and grease removers and tack cloth but I totally brain farted when I was actually doing the work. Now that it's come out this good, I think I'll stick with this system so I don't have to buy more supplies for my cheap ass paint job. Daughter of a contractor and smart too. Pretty good combo...

The issue I had with carbs, and granted we're comparing Mikunis to a 4 barrel, was that the fuel would wash over the jets on hard right handers. Although that problem in particular may not be an issue, pulling lots of g's can do weird things to the float, which may mean that the bowl over or underfill in a given situation. I expect that the real roadracers have worked through these problems 50 years ago, but one thing that constantly worries me about the V8 crowd is that it's geared towards drag racing so you never really know how appropriate whatever part you're buying is for high g loading. For that reason I'd run the TBI.

Some more progress to report today. I explained to my wife how I couldn't get the rear quarter body line straight and she came up with a pretty damn good idea. She suggested I use tape to mark the line and then sand up to the tape. I had to remove most of the primer for that quarter to fix the body line. I took her suggestion and it worked really well. Then I sprayed primer again, and paint. The first coat of paint I thinned 80/20 with Acetone, and this was not thin enough. Not knowing WTF I am doing, I went ahead and sprayed the car, but the paint was really rough. I went back and wetsanded most of the paint off and cleaned off the surface, but I had a lot of dust around. Like an idiot I used my air gun and blew off the surface and then repainted with a 60/40 mix of paint and Acetone. Apparently blowing off the surface with compressed air is a bad idea because my next layer of paint had quite a few fisheyes. Much wetsanding later (just about took the whole coat of paint back off, I talked to a friend who has done some paint work before and he suggested I clean the surface before I shot the next coat. I didn't have any of the special solvent that he uses, so after the wetsanding was done I just wiped down the surface with Acetone and then sprayed the coat shown in the pictures here. This coat which was 60/40 as well layed down really flat. There is some dust in it since I didn't bother to make a booth, but it will come out with some wetsanding fairly easily. This layer looks REALLY good. I'd say that the part of the car that is currently painted looks a hell of a lot better than the old paint job that was on it. Granted, I got severely butt raped on the last paint job and the paint was cracking under the clear coat where the clear wasn't flaking off, there were runs in it, etc. But this really does look presentable. After rolling the interior, I'm glad I sprayed the exterior. Now that I know which is my ass and which is the hole in the ground, I'm confident that I can do the rest of the car with a minimum of drama and do-overs. Here are a couple pictures:

I'll add that if it is an H190 and it does have a detroit locker or an LSD, it probably would have some value to a guy like Les Cannaday, because the locker can be installed on the R190 differential and used on a Z in that way. On a side note, it sounds like your R200 is SERIOUSLY busted if the power can't transmit from one side to the other.

The plug is for removing sand from the casting process. I'm sure you could weld it with no ill effects.

Yes, a 5 point harness controls your torso better and would lessen the possibility of your head hitting the dashboard.

Polyurethane is a really bad material to use for the isolator. The isolator has to flex in order to allow the strut to pivot as the suspension compresses, and polyurethane is not easy to flex. Shaving it down would make this problem even worse. If you want to shorten the top hat to lower the car, get a camber plate. The monoball allows the strut to pivot freely, and they take about 1.5" out of the height compared to a rubber isolator.

I'm changing the title of this thread. We want users to be able to know what is in the thread before opening it.

He's not using copper. That's cupronickel. It's supposed to be the best hard brake line material you can get. There have been threads on its benefits before, you can search cupronickel and find out more about it if you're interested.

So that you don't get damaged as severely when your head hits it. I was in a pretty bad wreck in my first Z where I was rearended by a car doing about 50 and then pushed into oncoming traffic where I hit a car doing about 30 head on. My wife was sitting in the passenger seat and she put a dent in the dash with her forehead while wearing a seatbelt.

Grind the manifold... ding the tube... both???

pics not working.

Rear camber bushings can be used to fix that toe issue too, if that is the problem. They're a lot cheaper than control arms. You can check your toe really easy with a tape measure. It has to be pretty far out of whack to cause a wear problem. Just measure as far up the tire as you can without bending the tape measure on the front and back of the tire. Hook into the same tread on front and back and measure to that tread block on the other side of the car. If your toe in isn't more than about 3/8" different I doubt that the toe is the cause of the wear.

How about clear coating them? You'd need high temp paint, but should be able to find that I'm thinking...

Sectioning the tubes to fit the strut you're going to use is the easiest way to go, as it keeps you from having to make a spacer to fit under the insert.

In general Z's have much more neg camber in the rear than in the front when they're lowered. I think John is telling you to put them up front because that would enable you to get more neg camber in the front, which would at least get it balanced somewhat front to rear. You're saying that you are wearing the OUTSIDE of the tire, which tends to indicate that you do not have enough neg camber. Given this, I would expect to find that the fronts are REALLY worn on the outside, since the front usually has about 2 degrees less camber than the back when the car is just lowered without any other adjustments available. I think part of your problem is your stretched tires, and that if the sidewall could do its thing you'd get better tire wear. For a 10" rim I'd be using a 255 (basically the tread width should be roughly equal to the rim width). I'd put 225's on an 8.

It would take some analysis to truly figure out how much of a difference the holes would make, but your idea of "anything more is better" isn't really very sound. If drilling holes so weakens the connector that it doesn't do anything useful, then you're better off not having it at all if for no other reason than just that it is dead weight being carried around. Unfortunately testing these things is a real PITA, so I doubt we're going to get a good answer as to it's effectiveness one way or the other.

That's a good point Cameron. I wish I had something to autox in for the last 5 years.