JMortensen

There is quite a bit of info on this in my diff FAQ post (also in the stickies of this forum). If you have a longnose R200 with a CLSD then the Z31T CV will work. I'm pretty sure the R31 diffs came with the CLSD.

But it can twist. The bar can twist and the bearings can move independently. This will require a ***slight*** bend in the center of the bar to allow the rod ends to pivot. In practical use I don't see this causing any problems whatsoever and I think a normally installed bar bends in the middle as well, so really not much different going on here. If there were no bearings and the bar was bolted or welded straight to the frame rails, then it wouldn't be able to twist and you'd be relying on the arms to bend. This is just not the case the way my car or the Trans Am car are set up.

You could swap the engine to your 240 if it is less rusted. You don't need a FI gas tank. All you need is a surge tank, which is very easy to build, or you can just buy one. If I recall correctly that 78 tank won't fit in your 240 body.

I think you guys are just plain wrong on this one. The bar can twist just fine. The heims will deal with a good amount of direct twisting of the shaft and a good amount of bending as well before they lock up due to the bearing. After mocking it up and testing on the bench, I was shocked at how little movement there is in the center to move the ends up and down. True, the bar can't twist in any direction (needs to twist in a way that the heims still point at the brackets) but a stock bar with bushings has similar limitations, assuming the bushings aren't worn or too soft. And it is also true that with a stock bar attached with bushings, the farther the brackets are towards the end of the bar, the stiffer the bar will act. I did measure the spring rates on the front and rear bars and was surprised at how low they were. Given the amount of stiction and friction in the poly bushings, I'd venture a guess that in a "normal" setup with teflon tape and whatever grease started out in there long since used up, the poly bushings might drastically affect the spring rate. I'd guess the heims joint setup would probably measure out comparatively light. The front bar had a rate of 105 in/lbs at the lightest setting and 120 at the heaviest. The rear bar had a min rate of 50 and a max of 80. If someone wants to compare to those numbers we'll know for sure. There might be a point if someone were running stock springs and slicks or something similar with grossly excessive body roll where the heims would be an issue. I'm not doing that. I'll be running some very stiff springs, and the swaybars are going to be for tuning the balance, not so much for controlling the roll.

There has been quite a bit of discussion on this topic previously. Bad Dog makes a reinforcement plate. This thread shows 3 or 4 more involved solutions and talks about even more than that. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105596 Regardless of how you fix it, you might want to think about stiffer springs. That would take some of the load off of the sway bar.

I just unbolted the track and pulled it out of the door. If I were to do the side window, I'd just bolt the frame back in, slide the window in and screw it in place. I'd use .125" Lexan. I can't get out the passenger's side anyway, so I don't think so. There would be concerns about glass breaking if I were door to door racing, but I'm not. Passenger windows are an issue at an autox, and the rule at the track days I've done was always "roll it up or roll it down, but make it one or the other and not halfway". That's a Wink mirror. I had a five panel Wink for about a week and couldn't stand it. It was too wide, so it had to be mounted pretty close to where the sun visors mount. It felt unnaturally close to my head in that position. They do have a 3 panel Wink that could be mounted farther away, but I was figuring on a more normal style mirror with a convex lens to get the wide angle. I suppose you could make an argument that the side view mirrors aren't needed, never really thought about eliminating them. I think I'd like to keep them if possible.

Better front brakes (assuming you're using Toy calipers on solid rotors). You might also consider the http://www.wolfcreekracing.com CV upgrade for the R180, if you're worried about breaking U joints.

Autox is fine with the passenger window up. Track days generally don't care.

I'm working on the doors for my car which is of course going to be race only. I just gutted the passenger side door and now I'm thinking that in terms of aero, wouldn't it be better to have a window on that side rather than having the window missing or open? My thought is that I could install the window track from my old door and cut a Lexan window then screw it into the frame. The other alternative is to leave the door empty and not have the weight of the frame and the Lexan up top, although the weight would probably only be 3-4 lbs I'm guessing. This is slightly confused by my choice for sideview mirrors. I had been thinking of doing some clamp on convex round mirrors that attach to the roll cage. If I did install a window on the passengers side I don't know that the cage mirror would still work. I have some old mirrors that I could reuse from the old doors as well, but I kind of liked the cage mirrors because they don't stick out, and my old mirrors used to fall down when the heat got over about 100 degrees which was very annoying when I lived in SoCal. Anyone have an opinion on what I should do?

The only reason to mix gas is if you can't run what you can buy at the pump, but you don't need the 100 octane or whatever you're buying. You can mix a $3/gal pump gas with a $7 or $8/gal high octane gas and split the cost and get the octane needed without spending more than you have to. Also as mentioned previously, there should in theory be more hp to be had with the lowest octane fuel that can be used without pinging while at the optimal amount of advance.

I never had a problem with mixing.

I bought an Ultra Shield Rally Sport seat a couple years ago. It's lightweight and fits me like a glove. Not sure why Wheeler felt this was the thread to revive to ask his question. Thanks anyway Tom.

Yes, they will act the same. What might make a difference is that a stock L28 has a lower compression ratio than a stock L24. I had a stock (at least compression ratio wise) L28 and I ran a .490/280 and it worked fine, but I noticed a big increase in bottom end power when I upped the compression ratio from ~8.3:1 to ~11:1.

Good to know!

ISKY doesn't regrind, do they?

The stock L24/L26/L28 cams are damn near identical, and all very small. You'll occasionally see people talking about their "C" cam and how badass it is. BS. The C cam is a 260 cam and has a very minutely longer duration but an equally tiny amount of reduced lift. ANY of the stock cams is tiny, and I'd be shocked if any of them produced a hp difference that was beyond the margin of error on a dyno test. They are all very very close in terms of lift and duration. If you want a cam, go buy an aftermarket cam. With your turbo setup you just want to make sure that you get something designed for a turbo that doesn't have too much overlap. Search the words turbo, cam, overlap, and you should find plenty of info to help you make a good decision on a cam. I like regrinds because they're cheap and I've had good success with them.

Well when my engine pinged on 92, I cut it with 100LL and the pinging went away. Car made a lot more power as I was able to adjust the timing to something close to "proper" as well. I've also run leaded race gas cut with 92, and Tolulene and Xylene cut with 92. I've also bent over at the race track and paid big bucks for unleaded race fuel. All of these solutions worked. For my engine my butt dyno said the 112 leaded race gas and the 100LL cut with 92 worked best. I don't doubt that its true that the octanes are rated differently, but when I calculated it out I needed about 95 octane with car gas to keep from pinging. That's what I shot for with the AVGas not knowing that it is rated differently, and it didn't ping either.

Yeah, I looked at those rear Yokohamas way back when and was thinking no way in hell is that going to happen. That's a 350mm wide rear tire!!! You might squeeze it in with the YZ flares though. I was just curious if you felt you needed 15" for the FA rear. I was hoping to squeeze the FA rear under a 3" flare. I think that's what you have currently on the white car, so it sounds like you've already done what I am planning on...

What are you working on? Are you trying to get the wide Goodyear FA's in the back of the white car?

Looking really really good Myron. I boxed my strut tower brackets, but I think in retrospect with all of the other stiffening I did on the strut towers the strut tower bar probably won't be doing much of anything other than the straight across lateral loading that you mentioned, so maybe it wasn't worth it in retrospect, even if it didn't take much time or add much weight. Without all of the extra bracing the bracket would tend to move fore/aft with with strut tower and that's where the boxing would come in handy I think. Since it appears you've already painted everything and it's already braced all over the place I would think that it's probably not worth the effort. I like the no BS dash too. Very racey, unlike the dashes you see with 35 gauges and switches all over the place.

I checked the MSDS sheets, and none of the products I'm using (Zero Rust, Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer, Rustoleum Stops Rust Protective Enamel) have lead in them. I did finally decide to do the Rustoleum primer. I came to the conclusion that its a friggin race car and it's more important to get the damn thing together than to keep sanding it and painting it over and over. I'm guessing this won't be the last time this car gets painted. I painted the underside and the engine compartment today. I painted most of it with a brush using the Zero Rust. What a PITA. Eventually I switched to a touch up gun that I bought a while back, and it was MUCH easier to deal with, even though the gun is tiny and I had to refill the cup over and over. After this experience I think I'm going to spray the Rustoleum, because I'm convinced it will be so much smoother and easier to wetsand. I also tried to spray the Zero Rust into the frame rails with a gun I got from Eastwood. It didn't work for crap. I think the problem may be that I lowered the air pressure on my regulator to 40 psi. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can't do any better. If not I'll just spray some oil in there and hope for the best. The plan was to do the Zero Rust and then the oil.

Yes, I'd get it as far onto the rocker as possible. I was able to get about 1/2 the thickness of the 1.75" tube on top of the rocker.

I wouldn't draw any conclusions from your test at all. I think it's probably safe to say that the louvers have a much greater aero effect than the VG's just based on size, and it's probably also safe to say that testing aero with snow is a bad idea. Above and beyond that expecting anything meaningful is probably not being realistic.

Option 1 for sure. The rocker where you'd be attaching to is much stronger than the floor. I originally had my hoop and down tubes attached ONLY to the rocker and not the floor, and ended up putting boxes under the tubes only to satisfy the potential nervous nelly tech inspector. I think it would have been absolutely fine the way it was. Option 2 might allow you to weld the side of the tube to the rocker, but then the connection to the rocker is purely in shear and the compression loads are going mostly to the floor. The floor is weak. The rocker is much stronger.

Or pull the cover and compare to the pics that you'll find all over this site if you search for CLSD, LSD, Nismo LSD, Nissan LSD, R200 LSD, clutch LSD, etc.