JMortensen

We should just stop answering on this thread because it is totally worthless, but the N heads came with dished pistons because they had a small chamber. The P heads have a larger chamber so their NA engines came with flat tops to give compression in the mid 8's, and the turbos had dished pistons and P heads to give compression in the mid 7's.

Looks nice. Volvos run 13mm rod bolts??? That's bigger than a lug stud for a Z. That's HUGE. FYI - Your springs are upside down, not that it REALLY matters.

It's a M3 GTR. V8 M3 basically, but the full on race version. VERY fast, but not as fast as the Can Am or GTP cars of yesteryear. Somebody posted another vid of a 956 doing the Nurburgring Nordschleife previously. Derek Bell is driving and does a 6:41 lap time IIRC, but in there Jacky Ikyx goes FLYING past on a qualifying lap. Ikyx looked like he was on his way to a 6:10 or so. That is F'in fast and he FLEW past Bell. Here is a link to that video: http://www.lad.lv/~martini/porsche/Videos/Nurburgring-956.mov Its a slow site BTW... Hard to compare the lap time on this M3 because he runs a combo of the Nurburgring circuit and the Nordschleife.

For sure. I had no clue what you were talking about until I saw the pic. This looks like it would be pretty easy to do, so I might just take that advice. Thanks Cary.

So lemme see if I have this straight. You're talking about this part of the picture and you're basically saying that you can make a clamp (or I suppose you could just weld the ears directly to the bar) and then have the heims stick out of the frame rail and attach to the ears on the bar. So basically the bar will pivot on the heims joint which it is attached to rather than pivoting inside a bushing. That's a very interesting idea. Do you think that there might be issues with the end links though? For instance, I'm thinking that my rear end links are going to be short to clear the CV shafts. If the bar pivots on the heims joint then as the suspension runs through its travel the end of the bar will move further fore and aft relative to the control arm, and it seems like this would change the effectiveness of the bar because it would change the angle of the end links more than a standard pivot-in-bushing setup. Or do you think it's not enough to matter. If one were to do this, any idea as to what size end link to use. Looks like the one in the picture is VERY small, like 3/8 or so. That seems awfully small to me, but maybe its enough???

How'd you like to be out for a track day and have that dude come up behind you at 80 mph closing speed...

Funny. Like telephone. It has a 350 with a TH350... It has a 350 with a Turbo 350... It has a 350 with a Turbo!!!

Summit has some foreign order info on their customer service part of their site. Looks like they'll do it. http://www.summitracing.com/customerservice/ (CLICK FAQ)

I think the same tire in a 15 should be faster than the 16. I know the trend is against me, so I suppose I can only point to Cary as proof of my point. He runs 13s.

The NA ZX distributor has 17º mechanical advance and it is all in by 2500 rpm. Here's some more useful information about how to check the bushings, etc. http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html I don't use the vacuum advance on my NA engine, not sure if you'd want it on your boosted engine either. The vacuum advance mechanism is notorious for failing, so if you get one of these distributors I'd suggest you either plan on fixing it right of the bat or disabling it completely. If you pop the distributor cap and you see little one or two little teeny ball bearings stuck to the magnetic bits inside then you know that your vacuum advance mechanism is dead.

From what I've seen reaction disk problems usually come around with a title like "I've bled my brakes 5000 times and I still don't have any pedal" or something like that. This could be a reaction disk problem but I'd guess that out of adjustment drums is maybe another alternative. If the rears are way out of adjustment the pedal will be soft and travel will be long. Shoes need to be adjusted so that they lightly drag. If you don't have any drag then they take an excessive amount of pedal movement just to come into contact with the drums. The only booster test I know is to turn the car off and hit the brakes a couple times. Pedal should be normal, normal, normal, slightly harder, rock hard. That basically tells you that the booster is holding vacuum for the first couple pushes on the brake pedal.

OK, so it would be a relatively large heims joint then. I think that makes sense. I would love to see a pic if you've got one, thanks.

This is what I'm used to seeing: http://thevenom.net/cobra/frontbar.jpg but you need to have the straight bar in order to slide the heims joint over the end of the bar.

Right here. Got no idea what that noise is though... sorry. I can't think of anything in the wheel that would only react during acceleration. Diff possibly. Maybe one of these pages will help if it is diff related. http://www.ringpinion.com/content/technicalhelp/default.asp?pid=109 http://www.ringpinion.com/content/technicalhelp/default.asp?pid=110

Sorry, I'm not following Cary. Got a picture or a link to a part for sale maybe? I understand the clamp holds the bearing, but how do you get the bearing on the bar? Seems impossible unless the bearing is also split...

John Coffey, zcarnut, Cary, blueovalz, jeromio, Drax240z, 260DET, and of course many more too. Thanks guys.

I thought you could only use heims if you have straight tubular bars. Gotta slide the heims onto the bar, right? I'd love to use heims but since I haven't quite gotten to that level so I don't think that works for me anyway.

So you gonna tell us what the plan is? I know you were talking about doing more door to door racing...

That's an interesting idea. So am I reading this right that you have a nut on top of the frame rail, a piece of all thread going through the rail and out the bottom of the nut, then a nut on the bottom to hold onto the sway bar bracket? That seems really easy and should be just as strong as welding in a sleeve...

I've been thinking about this issue too. I just took the fenders off my car and when I got a little light in there I could see that about 4 spot welds were cracked around the sway bar mount. I'll be curious to see what others have to say. The solutions I've seen are basically a big piece of angle that gets welded over the frame. The other that I think was talked about here before involved using a hole saw and cutting the captured nuts out of the frame, then welding a sleeve inside the hole and using a plate on the top and bottom. The latter seems like the stronger solution. Both require welding new parts onto the car. Any particular reason why you want to avoid welding on the car Richard?

That's a good point. A friend of mine had to install a 3.36 with her ZX 5 speed after her 3.90 R180 LSD broke. That made all the difference. The car was really sluggish with that tall rear end.

I used the thermostat out of a 240SX lower rad hose. Has a steel fitting with the thermostat right in it. Just cut about a 1" section out of the lower hose and you're good to go. Wired that to a relay, and grabbed power direct from the battery. Simple and works well. My switch kicks the thermostat on at 212º and turns it off around 190º.

Nope. That's what EVERY list out on the net says, but the 260 2+2 also had the 3.36.

I was running F Prepared but that was only because I figured out how to get slicks cheap. I actually found the deal on the slicks when I was running O/SP, then I figured why not and bought some steel wheels and ran in Prepared. I was usually the only one out there in F/P, but I was racing against my old roommate who had an underprepared E/P 510, and I also liked to see the "run whatcha brung" aspect of the non PAXed final results. He and I duked it out for years, each of us improving on what we had and becoming faster and faster. I moved about 4 years ago and haven't autoxed since, my old arch rival has apparently not stopped, and I know he's been FTD at Shasta and has a pretty good rep among the POC crowd and usually is FTD at their slaloms. Being seriously underprepared my PAX results usually put me down to about 30th or so, but my raw overall standings were damn good. Car had a full interior and weighed 2350 had an 8.5:1 compression L28 with SU's, later got Mikunis. I was running a 250/45/15 Yokohama road racing slick which really wasn't the best for autox. I had similar results to Chris as far as tire wear and I usually ended up chucking my tires because they were getting too hard, not because any cords were showing. Basically if you want to be competitive you better have a big bankroll. If you want to have fun I'd suggest the Prepared or Mod classes because you have more flexibility in how you build the car and you can run the stickier slicks which to me is part of the fun. The faster the car the more fun it is.

Behrents and Pit Stop USA have the cheapest prices I've seen.