JMortensen

This is more of a Haynes manual question, but basically you have to pull the belts and then pull the big bolt out of the front of the crank. It's torqued REALLY tight, so I will pull the radiator and use an impact gun on that bolt than to try and get it loose some other way. Then you slide the pulley off and use a seal hook or a screwdriver to pry the old seal out. Install new seal and reverse the disassembly. Look up the torque spec on the front bolt. Want to say 110 ft/lbs. It's a lot.

They don't break in the middle of the shaft. If people were snapping the inside or the outside part of the shaft that would be an upgrade, but they always break at the U joint.

Come on, dude. Are you SERIOUSLY asking that question? Because its ben discussed again and again again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again.

Come on, dude. Are you SERIOUSLY asking that question? Because its ben discussed again and again again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again.

Wow.

But centrifugal force doesn't negate gravity. So it will transfer some of the weight to the outside of the car, but it takes way more than 1 G to completely transfer ALL of the weight off of the inside tires, in fact it should be closer to 2 G's if I'm correct. I'm sticking with my answer. I'll say that the inside springs would be 1" compressed while the outside will be 3" compressed. The weight is going to be roughly 25% inside and 75% outside and the car can generate more than 1 G on the skidpad.

I don't think you're giving enough information to come up with an answer. As an example, How to Make Your Car Handle gives an acceleration weight transfer as follows: 1/2 g acceleration of 2000 lb car with 50/50 weight distribution with wheelbase of 100" and 20" high cg and says Weight transfer = inertia force x cg height / wheelbase. In their dragster example it works out as 1/2g * 2000 * 20 / 100 = 200 lbs. So in that example 200 lbs shifts to the rear. Lateral as I understand it is different because you need cg (I was wrong before you do need cg) and track width so you get a simple equation of: Weight transfer = Centrifugal force * cg / track width That simple equation doesn't take into account transfer from body roll, or roll center heights or unsprung weight, which according to How to Make Your Car Handle need to be calculated and added together to give a complete view of how much transfer is actually there. I think the answer your looking for is that it wouldn't be 100% of the weight transferred to the outside tires (it would be something like 25/75), and that the car would be capable of more than 1G in a turn and the outside springs would not be a whole bunch more compressed than the inside springs, but you're not really giving the info to figure it out anything close to accurately according to the sources I have.

It's not the mustache bar that needs modifying. It is the transverse link directly below the mustache bar. If you don't want to hassle with it just use the standard cover. I autoxed and did track days with the standard cover for 8 or so years with no issues. You may want to try this member here: Leith280zlt1. He's been building complete LSD diffs. He gets an R200 from the junkyard, pulls the open carrier then installs the Power Brute (same as Nissan) clutch LSD and ships it out. Seen posts from several happy customers, one today even.

I think you need RC to calculate transfer due to lateral g's and CG to calculate transfer due to accel/decel. Could be wrong.

Eibach springs are usually rated as such: length - ID - rate so one of my fronts is marked 1000 - 250 - 200. I'd suggest you use both of the bars. I'd go 1/4" toe out and a bit of toe in in the back if you can.

Sure thing! Almost have that rotisserie ready to go...

I'd suggest that you should probably just replace it. The halfshaft is actually kinda like a CV joint when you take it apart. There are 12 balls that ride in grooves in the inner and outer parts of the shafts. If it doesn't move freely then I'm guessing the grooves or the balls or both are damaged. I suppose you could pull it apart and inspect the insides if you wanted to be sure. I pulled this one apart with the intention of shortening it, but never got around to putting it back together because I decided to go CVs instead. Apparently they are a bitch to get back together, although honestly it looked pretty simple to me. This one went in the trash...

What else do you need to fix on your halfshafts Zerrari? Are you going to change out the little balls and plastic spacers inside the shaft? If you've got one that is that bad off just replace it. You can always repack the grease if you so choose without replacing any parts, but if you need to replace the balls then the part of the shaft that they ride on is likely toast as well.

Gravely feeling is definitely something metal to metal in the brakes (either the pad lining or the shoe linings are gone). Can't pin it down any more than that, but you need to get the wheels off and find out what is grinding on what. Start with that, then adjust the rear brakes. Drums way out of adjustment will give a long pedal. Sounds like you need a booster too since you have a vacuum leak when you step on the brakes. Basically you're going to have to go through the whole system.

If you already have it out it takes about 5 seconds with a dial indicator to measure backlash. I don't think it's a backlash problem which is why I wanted to know what kind of shims they were looking for in my last post. BTW, I think MikeC here once said that you could use Chevy 12 bolt shims for backlash adjustments. Still don't think that is the problem with your diff though and I wouldn't suggest that you change the backlash if it measured out OK. I had a shop that wasn't familiar with R diffs screw mine up 3 times when I first got it. They couldn't get the pinion bearings right to save their lives. I'd check EVERY other clunk source before you pulled the diff apart: stub axle/companion flange spline wear, mustache bar bushings, front diff mount/strap, driveshaft, sounds like you've already tried the halfshaft U-joints.

Should also be able to roll the rear fenders and get more than 6mm clearance out of the fender lip easily.

Sure it's not the diff? Does it do it when rolling with the clutch pushed in? Pinion bearings commonly whine, that's why I'm asking.

I call mine "Anthropomorphized" and I go to the garage and sing a lullaby to her every night. When we have dinner I make another plate for her and she has a seat at the table. OK maybe not, because its a freakin car and it doesn't have the capacity to care what it's name is!!!

A spherical bearing is not a needle bearing. It is a heims joint.

Have someone else do it.

I've never rebuilt them myself and I've never seen a bad one in person. Someone here did a set recently and said it wasn't too bad to rebuild.

Clutch chatter is when the flywheel and pressure plate gets warped and when you let the clutch out, the high spot in the flywheel or pressure plates rotate around, and every time they find each other the clutch grabs really hard then lets go. You only feel it when you're just to move in 1st usually, because you let the clutch out too fast in the higher gears to notice it. Chatter also happens when you use puck clutches, just because the material is so aggressive that it won't let any slippage occur. Because it doesn't like to slip, this frequently also leads to grooving of the flywheel and pressure plate which makes the chatter worse and worse.

4 or less to protect the head, and they should all be behind the driver's seat.

That is the earlier 79-81 ZX setup you have there.

No they aren't. http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/RoadRaceSeries.htm 15x10 that weighs 18 lbs isn't heavy at all. Might not be the one to drive around on a potholed street, but 18 lbs is very respectable. A ZX 6 spoke 14x6 is 14 lbs to put it in perspective, and that is a pretty lightweight wheel for a manufacturer to put out. You can probably find a Kodiak or Jongbloed or Custom Racing wheel that is 15x10 and 13 lbs, but it would probably cost 8-10 times the price of the steel wheel and also wouldn't be meant for street use.