JMortensen

If you're smart you'll ask "Why a V8 and not an L6?" in the V8 forum before you make your final decision.

I believe those are Tabco panels, and I believe Tabco gives free shipping... As a side note, nobody has taken me up on my $400 tail lights yet. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19089

I betcha there's been a lot of development of the D44 in the last 50 years... D44 is the rear of choice for the smaller Jeeps, CJ, YJ, XJ, etc. for rock crawling which is REALLY hard on diffs. You guys think drag racing is tough, you ought to see these guys stuck on a rock and literally bouncing the whole rig up and down on 38" tires with 8 lbs of air in them. Talk about shock load... Not to mention the D44 comes in the back of the Viper and older Vettes. The diff Scottie went 10 secs on was a D44 or a D36, I am pretty sure his was the D44. You might want to try and compare the two, or at least find out the max potential of both. The thing to do for a solid axle D44 is start looking at off road magazine articles and websites and see what people are doing to beef them up. I wouldn't count the D44 out, although the full floater 9" that Tim suggests is basically a NASCAR rear end and is going to be stronger and maybe even cheaper with the number of circle track guys out there. Check circle track magazines and suppliers for the 9" stuff.

I guess you didn't see the 40 Year Old Virgin... dumb movie, but that one quote stuck in my head for days.

Like 2 big bags of... sand.

It's definitely not in the FAQ either, so whatever you do don't look there...

I could get high licking that...

JY = junkyard. I really like Brembo for rotors. Hawk, KVR, Porterfield all make good hipo pads.

I think I have to retract my statement! That Cobalt is F'in fast! It says in that article it was doing config 13. Doesn't say CW or CCW, but if it is CCW (the faster direction) then it is only 3 seconds slower than John Coffey's ROD. If it is CW then it would presumably be FASTER than the ROD, as I believe John has said that in the ROD going the other direction adds about 5 seconds. Both the ROD and the Cobalt would kick the crap out of my car in its old state of tune, and presumably still be quite a bit faster than my car will be when it's driving again. That's impressive as hell...

That's fine. It'll just be that much MORE fun to blow the doors off of an unsuspecting Cobalt at the track...

That info is in the FAQ, but basically the Wilwood calipers do not have ebrake provisions while the ZX and 240SX do.

When you step on the gas either the car has to accelerate or something has to give. Your mechanical torque in 1st and second is multiplied further by the low 1st and 2nd gears, and this makes it easier for the car to accelerate. When you're in 3rd or 4th there is not as much torque multiplication making it harder for the car to accelerate. Now the clutch shows its weakness and starts to slip. The clutch test I always did was head uphill, put the car in 4th at about 40 miles per hour, rev the engine and drop the clutch. If it's weak you'll know instantly. EDIT-Forgot to say CFDF is a piece of junk IMHO.

Or to move the rotor farther inboard...

This was discussed on classiczcars.com, and one guy was saying that this was a REASONABLE price!!! See that thread here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19089&page=1&pp=15 As a result, I have 2 sets which I am offering at the bargain basement price of $400, and I'll even pay for shipping in the US. See my ad here: http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=756 I hope somebody feels that I'm doing them a favor and pays me $400 for these things...

That's what they call it when you win in a street race Mat.

That is a small rotor setup, mostly geared at 510s. See the note where it says it will fit 13's. That means the rotors are probably 10" in diameter. Not necessarily bad, but braking torque on a 12" rotor will be substantially increased. Here is a larger brake kit: http://www.arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html What is an ebrake hose? Are you talking about a cable? Probably JY would be your best bet there.

I think that is IE, not your firewall. The graph seems to work with Netscape and Firefox, but not IE.

Duh, both cheeks and the hole. What a stupid question. Then again some people don't know the abbreviation for assembly is assy, not ***.

The big difference is the diameter of the disk. The larger the disk the more leverage the braking system has. The 240SX setup from MM is using 11" disks. I believe the ZX setup is 10" disks. That is a big difference. If Ross at MM sells a kit it's been my experience that he includes everything you need to put it on. So I would figure that if you needed different brake lines he would include them. You might want to check with him directly on that though.

I don't know what is different. I do know the N36 originally came with the flat top carbs. ITS guys apparently believe them to be worth 10 hp. I don't know exactly what the difference is though. I thought this was just another rumor until Norm backed it up recently. He is pretty well known for getting amazing results from SU's. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=75969&highlight=n36

One more done.

Can you rephrase the question? What were they wanting to change shims for? Backlash?

PM Matman.

The N36 is supposedly worth about 10 hp more than the N33. Polish the N36.

That's pretty lame John. On the bright side, I guess you can be glad he wasn't into bull riding...