JMortensen

I feel for you Alex. The worst for me was at one of my very first jobs. I was young and seriously underpaid. Anyway, they did the Secret Santa thing there, and I pulled the VP's name. So now I have to buy this bitch a present. This was the same VP who had told me just a few weeks earlier "You make good money for someone your age" when I pointed out that the middle aged woman who had my job previously made $5/hr more than I was making. Discriminate on the basis of age much? Then all the other worker drones wanted to show this drunkard what a great boss she was, so they all chipped in to buy her a present. Of course I was sucked into that one as well, so now I'm buying 2 presents for her. As it turns out I spent more money on her that year then I did on my girlfriend. That REALLY pissed me off. Needless to say I don't do well with the compulsory gift giving or forced generosity either.

Just what I was thinking...

That's very impressive Scottie. Somehow I thought you should be able to beat all these other cars, especially since you were running slicks. One can only assume all these other cars were on hipo street tires.

Just to lend a little credibility to the guy's story, here's something I found online that claims 2.1 for the 650 hp rally version. http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=103&i=7138 And another good one: http://www.answers.com/topic/ford-rs200 You're probably the winner with that one. The Escudo has to have the most violent acceleration outside of pure drag racing.

Yeah, well that might hold a little more weight if you had a whole warehouse full of rally cars like this other guy...

I met a guy who had an RS200 Evo (heavily modded with 800+ hp) and he claimed 0-60 in 1.7 seconds.

Mines 4396 and it was built 5/70.

I don't think short wheelbase is the name of the game in sand rails. Short wheelbase rear engined cars with lots of hp tend to flip over backwards when climbing steep dunes.

Out of curiosity, what was ScottieGNZ's Z doing 0-60 in?

Resistors for the fan speed.

Read the number on the module. There is the E12-80, then there's the other one.

http://www.picklex.com is a great surface treatment, but not a primer. You can coat the whole thing in Picklex 20 and weld whatever you want, then when it's done use Rust Bullet or similar over the Picklex.

Doesn't look locked to me...

Two things you need are extended shank burrs like this: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=2337&keyword=46059 and extended shaft die grinders like this: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00061SHMQ/104-2687056-8990300?v=glance

http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html I always thought that the halfshafts varied in length. After reading that article I measured a bunch of them and they were all the same. I did go through the hassle of figuring out how to shorten them. I was about to do that then I just decided screw it I'm going with CV's. I figured after all that hassle I might as well go to the smoother CV joint since I'm running so much neg camber. I think after I had it all figured out I found a post from 2126 (I think) and he had successfully done what I was planning to do to shorten the shaft. Basically you have to disassemble it, cut about 1" off of the inner part of the shaft, then I was going to tack weld the end of the shaft back on, I think 2126 actually had it machined to accept the original snap ring, and reassemble. I've got a picture of a disassembled shaft which might help you, but I can't upload pics for some odd reason. I found your email address on your website and emailed the pic.

The line pressure up to the prop valve will be the same regardless, so adjusting the prop valve won't trip the switch. All the switch does is light up the BRAKE light on the dash. I guess it is another set of fittings and those fittings could cause a leak, so if you're just trying to plumb things in a way that reduces the possibility of leaks then remove it.

Put just a little effort in and search. There's TONS of info here. Read through the FAQs, then search and read for a couple days. Then ask what remains of your questions again.

You gonna get in on that group buy from 2002???

You don't necessarily need to rebuild the diff or the LSD. I would suggest you install it and run it and see if it has any bearing noises or spins one tire. If so then rebuild. Bearings are expensive, so I wouldn't replace them unless they need it.

Put a washer on the stud then suck it in with an impact. Drive studs out with a hammer, suck them in with an impact gun. That's the way I did my 2 sets of RX7 studs, no problems yet.

This was posted just a couple days ago. The original triple carb blow through turbo setup: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104910 If I were going to do it I'd get those throttle bodies that fit on triple manifolds and do it FI.

That's tough news to hear. Thank him from all of us for his service to our country and for our benefit.

Did some searching online, apparently it is the turbo and IC and plumbing that makes the difference and brings the weight pretty close to the LS1. So that's another plus for the LS1, makes the weight difference pretty inconsequential, although the cg would be moved slightly higher and the PMOI raised a bit it should still whoop *** on a 13B powered 7. So I guess I stand corrected. I still can't believe how much the turbo crap apparently weighs...

One more time I'm not saying the rotary is the way to go, just questioning the weight distribution and gain that I keep hearing quoted.