JMortensen

Actually I was looking into this and the Wilwood site says you don't need to turn the rotors. It says that runout should be measured with a dial indicator, and if there is a high spot than a shim should be added between the hat and rotor of the closest bolt. I think I'd just turn them, but that was the "official" word.

That seems really thick. Aren't the stock floorpans like 24 gauge or something?

Yes you can plug all the holes in the balance tube. If you want to run vacuum advance leave that one on, but plugging the rest is fine.

Keep the hose that comes off the pipe. Get a catch can. Install it right behind the radiator core support. Twist the hose around so that it attaches to the catch can. Your catch can can be a polished aluminum one from Jegs or Summit, or it could be an old plastic quart bottle for oil. Only requirement is that you have to attach the hose to it and the can has to hold whatever oil comes out but still vent. Nice cans come with a little filter on top and if you do the oil bottle just cut a hole in the top.

The pipe off the side of the block is the PCV. Don't block it off. On the valve cover and the PCV pipe they'll be better off attached to the intake. If you don't want to attach them to the intake then the PCV should at the very least go to a catch can. You can put a breather on the valve cover one if you don't want to route it to the intake. There is large hose that you take off of the exhaust manifold for the smog rail. I found recently that if you go the hardware store they'll actually have a plug that fits right in that hole.

I think you should sell it. Z's need a garage and a large tool chest. Especially yours. Good luck, and I hope someone offers you what it is worth.

I don't know any of the pin heights or any of that. Anyone you're ordering from should be able to help you figure all that out. The longer rods ARE an advantage, so if your getting custom pistons you might as well use the longer rods. Pauter might be able to make a standard L28 rod, but why would you pay all that money for the stock length?

You use the L24 rod with a custom piston for a slightly better rod ratio.

Right. Although you can't really adjust anything in the back of a ZX anyway, which is why they want to replace whatever they think is bent. After getting the rear end squared then they'd go to the front and make the only adjustment available. Front toe.

Your 280ZX 2+2 probably isn't worth what it will cost to fix it if it really is gonna run $1500 anyway.

Ciao baby!

If your rears aren't adjusted that really is most likely the problem. Bastaad's suggestion to get a manual is a good one. Then if it still goes down to far I'd check the reaction disk, and while you're in there check the adjustment between the master and the booster. There NEEDS to be free play between the two, but only about 1/8" or so.

Mine is a 3 row. The early 240s had 2 row radiators which just weren't big enough in hot weather. Any 3 core upgrade was a good idea. Your 77 should already have a 3 row, so putting in this slightly taller 3 row that doesn't get any extra airflow on the extra part isn't really beneficial, plus it hangs down and can get munched on speed bumps, etc. Mine doesn't have a drain plug anymore. It got knocked off on something...

Reaction's website quotes some pretty small rim widths, but I think he is quoting with stock springs, not with coilovers. I've got 8's under stock fenders and could probably squeeze 8.5s or maybe 9's and I believe the site says you can't put more than a 9" under the 940z setup which is flared 2 or 3 inches.

You can adjust the front toe stock. That's it.

The mounting isn't the same, but you can make it work. The downside is the radiator will hang down below the bottom of the core support (or at least it does on my 240). Just need a bit of trimming on the mounting tabs and a couple new holes drilled. Pretty straight forward.

I've heard that you can put them in the dishwasher to clean the insides. Never tried it, but that's the rumor.

Something like this? I grabbed the img from another post here, hope that's OK:

IMO grip on the front is more important than grip on the back at autox. Seen many cars that slide the *** end all over the place that still post good times. Never seen a car that plows do well at autox ever. You might look into buying some used slicks, there are companies online that sell them. These won't be DOT, they'll be real slicks which puts you in FP, but they'll also be REAL FUN. If you don't want to get your butt whipped in FP save some cash for some Kuhmos. Fast but not as fast as Hoosiers but far more durable.

Steve gave one friend of mine flat out wrong info about L series cams and lash pads. Another friend ordered, got the wrong stuff, called and was told a call tag would be issued and it never was. He had to call back 3 or 4 times to finally get everything straightened away. I've been to their shop when I lived in SoCal, they have some really nice customer cars there, and my orders with them were easy and always went right the first time. So it's a mixed bag for me.

I guess what I just said is basically the last paragraph of your last post... guess I don't read so good sometimes... I still think there are times when it would be advantageous to use one over the other. Like under heavy braking. A more neutral toe setting would make the car more stable under braking than a big toe out setting. Also at autox I think the difference might be much more dramatic since the steering angles are so much greater.

And how much money have you spent trying to make the car faster? How much have you spent trying to keep the car from poisoning you while you drive it?

John I think you just set the toe way out instead of using Ackerman. Nothing wrong with that I suppose, but that's probably why it didn't make too much of a difference in your case. If you had the Ackerman going you probably could have reduced the toe and had the same basic effect when autoxing. Ackerman is a splitting hairs type of thing, but to paraphrase YOU regarding chassis setup "It's a bunch of little things, not one big thing".

Man you guys are jumping all over this guy. It's not like he asked if you can get 350 hp out of an L6 or what the biggest size tires he can fit under ZGs are or something Take it easy on the guy. I suggest you check out the diesel truck thing. If you search there was a thread on those turbos recently, I believe it was said that a Dodge Cummins turbo is the same size as a T3/T4. They use small turbos because they need to spool at 1200 rpms, and despite what you might think I believe they are just about right for the L28ET.

Sounds like the diesel manifold. Ask your friend if it had a throttle body on it. Diesels don't use TB's. The runner's are much bigger on that intake than the Z head, but the head could be ported to match. I think 1_fast_z has done this and welded a TB flange onto the end of the manifold IIRC.