JMortensen

Strokers are good and all, but they'll only give you an increase proportional to the added displacement. For example, a 3.2 is 12.5% larger than a 2.8. So if your 2.8 makes 250 whp, then your 3.2 will make 281 hp. Is the 31 hp worth the several thou it costs? That's up to you. We've had several people lately build strokers and put down less than 200 whp. IMHO it was because of the cam and head that they had. One guy (zredbaron) got a different head from Sunbelt and added 40 hp. Then he did some carb tuning and got some more. He's on 40mm carbs, I think theres more to be had with 44's or 45's.

Did you see how big he mad the ports? You'd have to port the crap out of the head to match, but it wasn't port matched. The holes were opened up quite a bit.

Nope, 260 2+2 was the first with R200, and it had a 3.36. It's not on any of the lists you find online, but its been discussed here a bunch of times. I'm sure you could find it with a search. Here's one. If zcarnut says it you can pretty much take it as gospel: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85518

Don't they also bypass at high rpms when pressure is really high?

Is that supposed to be whispering? I KNOW THIS IS YELLING!!! Terry aka Blueovalz has modified some other bars to work. I think he was using a Toyota PU front bar in the back, then he swapped to a Honda bar. He bends them to fit with a press then cuts the ends off and welds his own on.

74 260 2+2 also had the 3.36 FWIW.

I bet that setup would have made A LOT more hp with bigger carbs. Here's what I have: ~11:1 compression (needs 95 octane) E31 with 280 valves, ported and polished, valves unshrouded (lots of work in the head) L28 with block notched to match the head where the valves were unshrouded .490/280 cam, Schneider springs and retainers 44 mm Mikunis Cannon manifold (longer straighter runners than the Mikuni manifold) ITG filter header and 2.5" exhaust ZX EI and MSD That yielded whp somewhere in the 240's. Gtech said 108 mph in the 1/4 at a weight of 2635. Do the math and cut a few mph off the trap speed because the Gtech didn't average the last 100 feet (or whatever it is) like the drag strip does and it shows something like 248whp.

Sorry, badly worded on my part. Bumpstops ARE required. Strut boots are not. I warrantied a Tokico strut and they never had any questions about boots, and I don't think that the boots do anything significant in preventing strut failures, nobody I know runs them.

True, but you can apply more braking pressure when you're going faster without locking the tires. So the more pressure you apply the more pressure dual proportioning valves would limit, meaning that proportionally you're getting LESS effect on the rear than you would with one proportioning valve. And the reason again is because you SET the proportioning valve at LOW speeds (low braking pressures), but it works to a greater degree at HIGH speeds (high braking pressures). At least that's how I'm reading it.

Still if my theory is right you would have more rear brake available at higher speeds if you removed or gutted the original valve. Not saying what you have now doesn't work, just that if it was done the other way it would probably work better.

Not so sure I agree with that advice. Any proportioning valve has a tapering off effect. They are not linear in their effect. I don't know what the effect of having two in the system is, but I would think that this would increase the tapering off effect and would lessen the effect of the rear brakes at higher braking pressures. So the brakes might be set up to have the rears lock just after the fronts at lower speeds, but at higher speeds the rears might basically be doing nothing. I haven't tested this so I don't know that what I'm saying is right. But I do know that the guys at Stop Tech don't advise using two valves. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml Here's what the article says:

You don't need strut boots IMO. Bumpstops are available from Energy Suspension. They might be included in that kit you were going to buy from Ross too, so you might want to double check that before you order them.

Good idea, and it's done. Thanks for pointing out my error.

K guys, you win, I'll change the FAQ.

Hmm... I was pretty sure of myself on this one. Having had an 80 and an 82 parts car made me more sure of myself. But it's been some years since those cars went to the great crusher in the sky, so I still want to leave a little wiggle room.

Everything oxidizes, even us. That's why we're supposed to eat foods high in antioxidants. Maybe human "rust" causes cancer... Definition of oxidize: How antioxidants work.

Well now that you've done all that work you should DEFINITELY replace the control arm bushings. It would be a real waste to get all the way in there and then not replace them. I know http://www.suspension.com has a pretty good price on the rear control arm bushings from Energy Suspension. I understand that Summit Racing might actually have a lower price than suspension.com.

There is a difference in the two. The later one has separate reservoirs and when you install it on a Z booster the reservoirs are on top. The early one has one reservoir and if installed on a Z booster the reservoirs point sideways, which makes them harder to fill... EDIT--I guess I should also say that there is always the possibility that I'm wrong, but the real test is to ask if it has dual reservoirs or a single. That's a definite test.

The easiest way to do rear springs and shocks is to disconnect the brake lines, the sway bar if there is one and the halfshafts. Then take the 3 nuts off the top of the strut tower and pull down on the strut. It will swing down and out of the fenderwell. You can then remove the springs and struts, replace and reinstall. Doesn't require spindle pin removal or driveshaft removal.

No doubt. It's a status symbol in LA and SF. And 99.999999% never see ANY dirt. Not even a dirt road. Maybe a gravel driveway or something... jackasses.

No problem there. That sucker fires the brass and ejects the copper.

L16 and L24 thermo housings are probably the same or very close.

Yep. Race wheels are light at the expense of strength.

I always liked the slot mags. They're pretty light too. Only problem is the offset isn't good on the wider ones which I think were 14x7. The tire would rub the fender if you used anything wider than about 205s IIRC. Polish them up with Mothers and they look like chrome.

Welcome. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72330 Big list of torque specs in the beginning and the different spec for 12mm bolts at the end of the thread. I found that thread by searching for "ring gear bolt torque" and it was in the first 10 or so threads. We're big on the search function here...