JMortensen

Thanks. Found one last week.

If you've got How to Make Your Car Handle, p3 (first page of actual writing) has a Z on 13s next to a stock one. Always wanted to do it, eventually ended up with brakes too big to make 13s work.

I ASSumed it would be a carriage bolt type of setup installed from below, with the stud sticking out of the top. Looks like a plate goes underneath. My bad.

Nothing missing. The slots fit under the stock strut tower. Loosen the bolts and you can slide the plate in or out to adjust camber.

Just what the post says. If you have one for sale, DM me.

Don't have a diff for you, but if you're still looking it might help to know that you can take the threaded buttons out of an R180 with bolt in shafts and use in an R180 that had clip in shafts.

Check the biscuit style camber plates, second and third listings on this page: https://www.dpracing.co/datsun-z-front-suspension-1 Design Products has been making Z race parts for 3 decades, maybe 4, not sure. I never used these, but suspension guru John Coffey used them and always talked them up.

The problem is that there is a transition from the strut top to the area between the wall of the cabin. I'd be putting my camber plate right in that spot. I suppose I could cut out the entire strut top, lay a new piece of .120 sheet in there and put a gigantic slot in it and have 5 degrees of movement or something like that, and then just weld it to the plate on top of strut area and the regular strut area. That'd be weird, but I think doable. Might be a lot of cutting on the underside of the plate that is in there now. I seem to remember a little pocket in that spot that I plated over.

I thought about welding a clevis to the rear of the upright and then being able to adjust roll center with spacers. I think you had brought that up years ago. I like the "fix it at the top" idea though, I think that's going to be simpler, won't have to mess with the CVs, etc, so that's the plan for now. Just need to disassemble so that I can get the camber plate shape and then work backwards to make an offset spacer. Was thinking of drilling and tapping the spacer so that I could move the camber plate to the stock position and then 1" back, and running studs in the top to bolt to the chassis and bolting the camber plate to the bottom. Might be a little tricky getting the plate to move far enough without the strut top hitting anything, but I suppose I've reinforced enough in there that I can hack some metal away without affecting things too greatly. It sounds easy from the office chair...

I don't know how much I'll need to shorten the arms by, but I was thinking exactly the same thing this morning while at my kid's dentist appt. My rear struts are nearly topped out. I could make a spacer that bolts to the existing camber plate and lowers the top of the strut to clear the bottom of the plate, then just slide the top of the strut farther than it is now and maybe get the pos camber I need that way. I do have Ground Control plates, so they're not like the shitty ones that have 3/4" of adjustment that you get with BC coilovers or something like that. I don't have any of the axles that I was having made back in the day, so I'd need to figure out the CVs. If I did something on the top end I wouldn't have to mess with that. Might have to cut back the plate on top that the roll cage is welded to.

I'm getting ready to rebuild my rear control arms. I need shorter. Too much camber for the slicks I'm running, and I have the camber plate tops flipped around to minimize, still not enough. Question: I have some 1 1/8" x .120" DOM mild tubing. Looking around, most tubing ends are 1" so that works fine. Could also do some 1 1/8 x .058" wall chromoly. I'm not very proficient with my tig welder yet, but that would be another option. When I dyno'd the car they tied it down with the control arms and it didn't want to start spinning the drum, car was bouncing all over. Not sure I'd feel confident with .058 in that scenario. Slight revisions I'm considering, would appreciate feedback: 1. Using a monoball holder instead of an outer rod end in the rear 2. Welding in 5/8" studs into the strut upright rather than using a long bolt 3. spacing the rod ends away from the strut a little bit. Monoball holder does this automatically, if I did a rod end again would probably use a rod end spacer like so:

I paid $2500 for a paint job in the 90s. That's like $60K now. Actually ~$4600, just looked it up. From experience, I would suggest that you will do it better than an inexpensive shop will, and a respray on a classic car is going to be the project in the back of the shop that they work on when they don't have fender benders coming through, so you'll be in paint jail for a while. My $2500 job had runs everywhere and crazy amounts of orange peel, you could see the original red creeping out from the silver that it was painted with, etc. I was really unahappy with it. When I painted my car again after turning it into a race car I did a Rustoleum paint job and shot it with Harbor Freight spray gun. It turned out much better than the $2500 in terms of the paint itself. I didn't try to make it straight, so that did make it quite a bit easier. Suggestion: do all the prep and then take it to MAACO or someplace like that, preferably with the fenders, cowl, headlight buckets removed. Have them shoot it and then reassemble.

Thanks Ben. NewZed, I'm looking for BASIC data. I don't really know what I'm looking for other than to capture data. I can do tire temps and pressures and that sort of thing manually, but I'd like to have video with g forces, speed, real basic stuff. Figure I can make changes and see if I see a difference in lateral or longitudinal gs. Was hoping to get friction circle data out of whatever I get. I'm not interested in all the linear pots and all that, just too complicated. I do find it somewhat amusing that you can take a new Vette, or even my '07 GTI and plug a datalogger in and it will grab all of that info from the stock sensors. Reason number 487 to give up on the Z and get a new car to race. When I race the GTI it's just so... FWD.

I need a new phone. Have been threatening to buy some sort of cheap DA setup for about 10 years, haven't made a purchase yet. Would like to go Apple on the phone because of the scanner feature. At one point there were a lot more apps for droids than iPhones. What's the situation like now? Does it matter?

My take on stock clutches is to use a stockish disk and a heavy duty PP. The puck clutches tend to chew up flywheels, and I had a friend with at CA18DET that chewed a groove in the flywheel and that took out the thrust bearings on the crank. My ACT pp and their "street" disk held up to my L28 with cam, 44s, etc.

You probably already know this but just FYI, "baby it" means DO NOT let it slip. I will let the clutch out part way, quickly, to kind of lurch the car forward when I'm sitting in line at an autox. Don't be gentle. Gentle = bad.

Mine is a standard dual 7.25 with the sintered iron disks. It's grabby, but it works great. Car shifts amazingly fast, and it's a T56 which are notorious for not shifting very well.

After talking about those trunnion bushings I went ahead and picked them up and installed. Did the CHE kit which has fully floating brass bushings, lots of the others are press in. Man, there really is something to be said for the simplicity of the LS. So easy.

Agree. 8.8 IRS is easier than stick axle swap. FWIW, 9" isn't that great as they came on production cars and if you went that route you'd need all custom stuff. You'd have to replace the housing to take that much power and housing will be too wide, etc. Can buy the whole thing upgraded and built to fit, but the pinion is really low, which is another issue. I'd rather go custom 8.8 solid axle if you're going to a solid axle. Almost as strong, cheaper, just as many gear options, better pinion angle, etc. If you want REALLY strong, Dana 60.

You mean the right way. Nicely done.

I climbed all over mine when it was on the rotisserie, just be careful, it is possible to tip it. Most surreal part of working on mine was with car upside down sitting on the top of the windshield opening with my legs hanging out the front and welding rust on the cowl/firewall junction with my head right about where the pedals would be.

Shim stock that is .004" is super easy to cut. I made shims for my LSD and cut them with scissors. You might consider buying a piece of shim stock and cutting a shim out if the alternative is paying a machinist to turn a new spacer on a lathe. Once it's in there the shim is not going to move, and when you're torquing the nut you can prevent the stub axle from spinning, so you won't screw up the shim while tightening. Looks like $11.30 from mcmaster.com: https://www.mcmaster.com/9011K815

Check the seal. If you don't drive it all the way in the lip on the seal hits the axle. Other than that shouldn't be much to it. If you had to make a new spacer the thing to do would be to test fit without the seal until you get the right endplay (almost none, but there is a spec for it) then install the seal and torque the shit out of it. Also there is a bit about torquing until you get the right amount of drag, but they're ball bearings, so the drag really shouldn't change with the torque. I always red loctite and then put the impact on 5 and give it lots of ugga duggas and have never had any trouble. I think the FSM is just wrong on that torque to drag thing. Doesn't make any sense.

Duh. I had never thought about it, but the countershaft is under the mainshaft, so yeah, turning it sideways or flipping it is the answer. I remember the Porsche guys flipping transmissions for 914 swaps I want to say, but it was 25 years ago and I don't remember what all was needed. Sounds like a shift linkage nightmare on a T56, but your T10 and Jericos have external shifters, seems like it would be a lot easier to do on one of those.

I was thinking about the trans being the low part, as I had issues with that too (trying to keep it from hanging below the frame rails. My though was whether it might be possible to raise the tail of the transmission and then lower the front of the diff to keep the angles parallel. Haven't looked at it, but was just thinking about this the other day, probably after looking at this thread. Without some way to get clearance for the trans, I'm not sure how much lower you can take the engine.