JMortensen

OK I went to the trouble of fixing your video so that it works correctly with Windows Media Player. On my machine the video was overclocked by 33%. When slowed down it LOOKS like a cool down lap, and you can hear a guy who is disappointed that John doesn't have his foot in it. He says something to the effect of "Aw, come on. Oh...." I think the engine sounds better at the correct speed. This link might not work: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1549&sort=1&cat=509&page=1 EDIT--If you're anal and you know it download programs for 2 hours to fix someone elses video. [clap, clap]

Aah... thanks. Very annoying for me and I'm sure everyone else.

For a while, every time I hit the spacebar it would enter whatever I had typed. Then it fixed itself, then the problem came back. Kind of annoying. Not sure what the problem was...

I'm not accusing you of anything dishonest Ken. My problem is that you have a lot of clout as a guy who owns (?) SportZ magazine, so I just wanted to make sure that people knew that your vid was playing faster than it should. I used a free program to reduce the size of my autox run that I posted a link to here about a year ago. It is called Zwei-Stein. You might want to try downloading that and trying again if you want it to be accurate. SERIOUSLY THOUGH--NO OFFENSE INTENDED. JUST TRYING TO KEEP IT ALL ON THE LEVEL.

For the record I'm pretty sure that it is the compression method you used, not the viewer that makes the difference. I'm using Windows Media Player, which is I'm sure what 95% of people are using to view your video. I'm not trying to be a dick, but you basically posted this vid saying "Look what we did" and it's not what you did. 14 seconds is faster than a SPRINT car for crying out loud. Here's a blurb from uscsracing.com: Here's a little flattery to make up... I imagine that the car would sound sweet were the video slowed down 30%.

Do you have a video that isn't sped up like the car chases in Dukes of Hazzard?

I hear what you guys are saying, but I'd rather challenge myself by racing a fast car with the really fast cars. Just as challenging being the underdog at 200 mph, but the slow stuff is just too boring IMO. The worst was the friggin test course in GT3 with a car that only goes 120mph. You'd be sitting there for a minute and a half before you even had to turn.... BORING... Anybody else hit that American race with the Chapparal 2J yet? Holy crap that thing is fast. I had to buy it. Kinda sketchy, only a 3 speed. 1st goes 110 or so... that is NOT boring.

Preith, don't you have an external oil cooler? Are your temps still too high? Maybe you should consider an upgrade there. Or maybe you're just overanalyzing the situation like I tend to do on my Z... I think the Nissan Comp unit is better, but not $400 better. The nicer features of the Nissan pan are that it has a crank scraper, the pickup is strenthened so that it doesn't vibrate and break off in the bottom of the pan, and the capacity is higher. Also my AZC pan was pre rubber o-ring on the drain plug, so my drain plug seeps a bit even with teflon tape, and although you would usually think of aluminum as a light material the pan weighs probably 15 or 20 lbs. Still, if I had it to do over again I'd buy the AZC pan again, at least at list price vs. list price. I think Nissan is just crazy to charge $750 for that pan, good as it may be. I've heard that classic datsun has the Nissan pan for less, but I haven't checked it out. If the prices were within $100 or so I'd shell out the bucks for the Nissan one.

I have the AZC one and my friend has the Comp one, so I kinda had the inside track on that one...

The Motorsport one is made by Arizona Z Car. The Nissan Comp one is different, made by DP racing, and according to Nissan it is an 8 qt pan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=99996-E1131&Category_Code=s30_nismo_oilpan

From another gun nut who showed up to this site after you left, welcome back.

This is my understanding of capacitive discharge in general and MSD. MSD IS MULTIPLEcapacitive discharge sparks. MSD gives 3 sparks up to 3000 rpm, then reverts to 1 spark. Capacitive discharge means exactly what he said, a capacitor stores up energy and hits the coil with a higher voltage to get more spark out of it, but the actual length of the spark duration is shorter in any capacitive discharge setup AFAIK, because the capacitor dumps this higher voltage to the coil all at once, instead of letting it build during a longer dwell period. Maybe there are other capacitive discharge units that don't have multiple sparks like MSD does, but that shouldn't change the duration of the spark AFAIK, and I admit I am a little fuzzy on this, but that's what everything that I've read says. This is a selling point that is touted by companies like Electromotive that have multiple coils. They always sell these as having a super long duration and hence a longer and stronger spark. From Electromotive's site http://www.electromotive-inc.com/products.html I'm not impressed with some of the other stuff the guy is saying either, especially that first quote you've got there Tony. Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. Why would better spark allow you to rev the engine higher safely? I could see how you could say that more accurately timed sparks can allow you to rev higher, or how higher voltage system can make more power at higher rpms, but it sounds like he's saying you can put a magneto on your 350 and rev it to 10,000 rpm. And why would the shorter capacitive discharge spark be better when there is one, but worse when there are three as in the MSD? Then there's this bit: I don't know if that's true either, because I've been hit with the same coil with the ballast resistor and without, and just by taking out the ballast resistor you could DEFINITELY feel the difference and I did nothing to change my body's internal resistance to get a hotter spark the second time. I'm not an ignition expert, but something stinks here...

You probably already got it, but I went to the arcade mode and did about 10 laps with the Cusco Subaru WRX and then went back and passed it first time thru. I actually thought the damn Bentley on the Le Mans track was WAY harder, probably because I'm using a joystick and you twitch just a gnat's *** at 220 mph on that two lane part and you're in the dirt.

Spoken like a true libertarian. Welcome to the club!!!

Nobody is stopping you. It's not supposed to be the government's job to take our money and give it to those who need it. It's the job of every individual to open his wallet and give it to those who need it.

I see 3 possibilities: 1. Is it a manual adjusting slave or a self adjuster? You might have to back it off and give it some slack if it is a manual threaded adjuster. 2. Did you keep the throwout bearing collar (the cast iron piece that the bearing installs on) that came out of the 240, and install it with a ZX transmission? That would be a problem, because the ZX pressure plate is taller so the correct ZX collar would be shorter. EDIT--This crap is kinda confusing and maybe someone will have a link with pics to help, but bottom line is you should use a 280 clutch and pressure plate and collar with your new transmission. 3. For a self adjuster I'd check to make sure that you got the bearing on the fork right as DL suggests.

BG makes some good additives. I've used their MOA and MGC, and I worked at a shop where we used to do their power steering and trans flush. I used the MGC basically for LSD additive for a long time. Works well, but then I found SWEPCO 201, which doesn't require additive and doesn't break down so fast. A BG rep originally came into the shop I was working at and did the bearing test (I'm guessing you've all seen it) and my boss who was 275 lbs was HANGING off the end of a breaker bar trying to stop the motor and couldn't. It was pretty impressive. I still have some reservations about additives in general since I like to follow the "if it sounds too good to be true" rule, but I can vouch from personal experience for the BG stuff. I tried Prolong on a dying motor and noticed no difference whatsoever. The only other one I can say yea or nea on is Restore engine treatment. My buddy used it on a seriously weak VW diesel and in 5 minutes the thing was running like a champ. Ran that way for several years, then I lost track of the car, not sure if they even have it anymore. Not exactly my recommended fix for a tired engine, but if you just can't afford to fix a car with bad rings it does work.

Where can a get a ricey attack body kit for my 240/260/280/280ZX/300ZX?

Looks good but takes some getting used to. The damn pic is SO big that I'm tending to exaggerate my movements on the joystick in compensation. I was doing pretty good playing it on a 27", but when I got it on the big TV I was having a bitch of a time getting adjusted to it.

He's trying to keep the air that comes in the front of the car from going under it, and by forcing it up out of the hood get a little downforce. Looks like an awfully sharp turn to me, at that point the turn might be SO sharp that it might just keep the air from flowing through smoothly. I'm leaning towards the NASCAR theory on this one, cover up that huge hole in the front and leave only a slit for air to get to the radiator. Preith has done exactly what I've been contemplating on the grill, he has pics at classiczcars.com. The amount of area for air to get into the radiator on a Z is seriously overkill. Couple a blocked off grill with some hood vents like Owen has and that should improve things a lot.

I can't believe they put the friggin Nurburgring in the game... must go change underwear... Le Mans too... and one of the tests is to drive part of the Le Mans course with a GTP 300ZX. Friggin amazing!!! Biggest improvement to me over GT3 is they captured the fact that driving through a corner at 10/10ths is not a smooth ride. You get all the jerkiness. Biggest complaint is the amount of nose dive most of the cars have. It's looking pretty exaggerated to me. The physics are MUCH better than GT3.

Yeah, I can be a dumbass sometimes. I was screwing around on one of the rolling start races, and it was saying Full Throttle press X and so I did, and I assumed that you needed to press X to get full throttle. Then I went into the options and tried to change, and you can not choose right stick for throttle and brake on the option screen, so I thought I was stuck using the buttons. Thanks though, much more fun with the right stick working...

From http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97370

I have a NA distributor triggering the MSD, but it is on an earlier 80 distributor. IIRC there is a timing retard function built into the later distributor (4 wires on the module vs 2 on the earlier one). I've been watching this but didn't want to say anything because I'm not sure that this is the source of your problem. Maybe someone who knows more about the later ECU can tell you if you can do something with those extra 2 wires or what. Sorry, that's all I got.