JMortensen

And that law was passed by a 392 to 11 vote. You wanna blame somebody for why we're in Iraq, blame your Congressmen. W's plan wasn't much of a mystery, and still it seems that there are hundreds of democrat congressmen who just can't believe that we went to war. Well why the hell did they authorize it if they didn't want to go??? It seems pure hypocrisy to say that Bush got us into the war when all but 11 voted for it. The 11 have a gripe. The rest are just victims of their own votes. One of the conspiracy theories that I'm not buying is this "Bush made up all of the WMD evidence" conspiracy.

I think all of this stuff has been discussed before. IIRC the snap ring grooves inside the carrier are in the wrong spot for the front diff LSD. I seem to remember that it was possible to recut the grooves on the stubs that stick into the diff to locate the circlips correctly. This was only a few months ago, might try a little digging, maybe search for cal-mini or something like that. I want to say it was zcarnut that had the answers on that one. Again, all fuzzy memories at this point.

The bushing kit won't cross over though. You'll need to find a ZX bushing kit for sure, the suspensions are totally different.

They tried them on a couple of Z's on that dumbass Full Throttle show. Search for that... I saw a relevant thread on classiczcars.com a while back.

Not quite that simple. I'm saying that the more limited your slip is, the more rear roll stiffness you can run without lighting up the inside tire. Both Coffey and Baldwin have LSD, Coffey runs a Quaife and Baldwin a clutch type with ~10 lbs breakaway, and they both had to cut back on the rear bar to stop spinning the inside rear. I've heard from numerous sources now that Quaifes will tend to spin the inside rear on long sweepers and tight autox courses, and John himself has described how he needed to add preload (like shimming a clutch LSD) to keep this from happening. Dan seems to have the same problem I did with my 300ZX diff, and the clutch type guru Gordon Glasgow has had with a brand new Nismo diff. Despite the advertised 45 lbs for the stock and 75 lbs for the Nismo, they seem to be shipped with ~10 lbs breakaway. All of this heavily depends on how you like the car to handle as well. If you don't like understeer, you'll probably want a rear bar. If you don't like oversteer, you'll want to run without one. Both ways can be made to handle, it just depends on the rest of the setup and the driver which is faster in the end. FWIW--I ended up with just about exactly the setup that John has been advocating for years. He then changed his setup and I think he removed the rear bar completely and was saying how he could put the power down a lot earlier. Not sure if that was a driver comfort issue or just a faster setup in his car or if it made up for the slippy Quaife or what, but it was a pretty big change from what he had previously been saying and it seemed to work for him.

Don't know about the 280. The Honda motor is only about twice as strong as the stock motor, so it still isn't that great, but at least you can feel the air coming out. I got mine from a jy for $5 or $10. It's worth it for that $$$. I read somewhere about a guy who put a Buick blower motor in with some modification IIRC and said it was like a tornado inside the car afterwards.

Mid 80's Civic or Integra. I think the one I pulled mine from was 87. Just need to make a little pigtail that extends the stock harness to the plug on the blower motor, otherwise it is a direct bolt in.

Someone probably cut the springs too much. Might try to get another pair of springs. I was under the impression that the 302 was lighter than the original 6. Oops, what they said...

Being open-minded is not all it's cracked up to be. The best place to be is somewhere in the middle, so that you don't spend all of your time running down ridiculous leads only to find out that they weren't right to begin with. My biggest open-minded pet peeve: "ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE." My usual response: "No, it isn't. Come back when you can stick a full size grand piano up your butt, then we'll talk... until then it's impossible." The second biggest: "DON'T ASSUME ANYTHING." How does a person know ANYTHING if they don't assume? Because all of the knowledge that you would ever gain would have to be constantly tested for accuracy. Should we need to test reality in every way every time we wake up, just to make sure that nothing has changed since yesterday, or can we make that assumption. Should you not assume that cat poo isn't good to eat?I'm willing to make this assumption, even though I may not have tested a particular steaming pile of cat poo. I'm not totally closed-minded, but a good dose of skepticism is in order. One of the best tests for me is to look at the other things that the conspiracy therorists are saying. If all of their other beliefs are screwy, then there is a good chance... not a 100% assurance... but a good chance that the one you think has an outside chance of plausibility is most likely BS too. The problem is that a conspiracy theory doesn't gain any traction unless it has a believable element to it. Conspiracy theorists are the sophists of the modern era. They can take any argument and make it believable. That is why skepticism is healthy.

"Taco Bell is the only restaurant to survive the franchise wars. Now every restaurant is Taco Bell." Sorry, wrong movie...

Remove the gas cap, replace what's left, reinstall gas cap. What could be simpler?

Nobody has mentioned noise yet. The oilless pumps are really loud and annoyingly high pitched IME, and the oiled pumps are just loud, but IMO much less annoying. The best one I've seen as far as noise goes was the Ingersoll-Rand I think it was a 60 gal unit a friend of mine has. That's the only one I've seen where you can stand right next to it and feel no need to yell to have a conversation while it's pumping.

You're right datsunlover. More rear roll bar means more inside tire spin. That's one of the reasons that racers run as soft as they can with tiny or no swaybars in the rain. Less traction requires less roll resistance. This is also why John Coffey and Dan Baldwin went smaller or got rid of their rear sway bars when they had inside tire spin on their cars. Datsunlover, do you still have any pics of your old swaybar? Might help Skelly to see them. It was barely on the car, and caused him all sorts of hassle. If yours is like that you should be able to fix it so that is mounted correctly. It sounds to me like you need spacers between the uprights and the bushings to pull the bar back away from the uprights. That's pretty common for the rear mounted bars from what I can tell. ScumDog, I wouldn't take off your rear bar unless your having real trouble with one wheel peel. If you're not the handling benefits far outweigh the traction losses IMO (course I don't have a V8). Of course, with a LSD you'd be set either way...

50/50 SWEPCO 201 and ATF is my preferred blend.

http://www.ringpinion.com/content/products/default.asp?vid=6&pid=4 Looks like your choices are Ford (looks like it is made by Eaton in this case) and Auburn Gear. The Eatons tend to chatter less and are rebuildable, so that would be my suggestion. EDIT--Actually I would make sure that the Eaton is not the Gov-Lock. The Gov Lock sucks and you'd be better off with the AG in that case. If it is the good Eaton, then get the Eaton.

From How to Modify: Sure you can have sludge plug up the spray bar. But you won't have that problem if the oil is changed regularly. Direct oiling isn't foolproof either. I think Dan Baldwin had a Schneider cam failure on his direct oiled cam, I'm surprised he hasn't shared his experience. I wouldn't hesitate to run both. As Tony points out there are only 2 TINY holes that feed the valvetrain. Open up the holes a bit and there should be plenty of capacity for both setups to run.

My wife and I are struggling with this as we speak. We sold our house in CA to move here to Seattle so that she could go to grad school. The plan was to rent the house, but when it didn't rent for 4 months we had to sell. So now she's looking at about a year more in school, then the plan was to go back to CA. I really want to go back, all my friends and family are there, but it's so damn expensive. Our house that we sold for 315K is probably about 500K now, and it wasn't that special to be honest. It was a 3 bed 2 bath with a 2 car garage on a relatively busy street. I'd like some land, a separate shop, etc, but I'm thinking that the only way for that to happen is to move to another state. WA sucks donkey balls so I know I'm getting the hell outta here, and the draw to CA is still strong, but I keep thinking NM, AZ, maybe even ID...

Read about c-clip eliminators before you buy them. They suck. Big time. If you're going to narrow the housing anyway, do like 73 TPIZ said and weld 9" outers on it:

You're right, I'm on drugs. 30 and 33 spline only for the 12 bolt.

A simple port match just removes the lip between the runner and the port and this is a good thing, but it kinda sounds like you really opened up the runner, which is not a good thing if you have only opened up the bottom half. In general terms you want the opening to constantly taper down from the plenum to the head. If you've opened up the ports in the head, and matched the runners to them, then your plenum end of the runners are going to be too restrictive. The idea is to get the velocity to increase all the way into the chamber. You might want to look for a die grinder with a long shaft http://shop.store.yahoo.com/bradystools/diegr14inexs.html or cut the plenum open and weld it back together. The Z ports might not be big enough to fit the long shaft of the die grinder in there.

Just to pick nits I thought the 12 bolt was 8 7/8" ring gear. But it's not the ring and pinion that gives the 12 bolt the advantage IMO. The big advantage to the 12 bolt IMO is the availability of 33 and 35 spline bolt in axles. Since we're talking about narrowing a rear end anyway, might as well step up and get the bolt ins and the bigger splines. IIRC you can get a detroit, spool, or eaton posi for the 33 or 35 spline setups. It's entirely possible that you can do the same for the 10 bolt 8.5, but I don't remember seeing them advertised back when I dealt with this stuff daily. EDIT--I see what you wrote now Mike, pinion DIAMETER is the same. Interesting, and I don't doubt you, but I saw a heck of a lot more axle failures than pinion failures.

Just guessing on the L6, but it seems logical that there would have been a L1, L2, L3, etc...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_camshaft Sounds like Nissan cams to me, at least the L4 and L6

There are 2 different 10 bolts. The Camaro one is a 7.5" ring gear, and they are pretty weak. Trust me on this one, I used to talk to guys that had destroyed their 7.5's all day long. The truck and full size car 10 bolt is an 8.5" ring gear, better, but still uses c-clip axles and not exactly bullet proof. If you're going to narrow it, try a Moser 12 bolt. Bigger, stronger, and bolt in axles.

I think they look damn good too. The one thing I would suggest for others is that if you're going for a whole lot of negative camber, it's better to make the new arm so that at stock length the rod end is all the way in. That way you have more threads in the arm. The rule of thumb I was taught and still follow is that twice the diameter of the rod end should be screwed inside the control arm. So for a 5/8" rod end you would want 15/16" threaded into the arm. On your page you said your car was bent, so it may very well be the case that you need to make one side shorter than stock to square the car up. Also I didn't make mine but the guy who did found a DOM tube that was small enough that he was able to tap it into the cut stock control arm. It's been some years but I think it was 1" OD, can't remember the ID but there were 5/8" threaded tube ends readily available that matched up just like yours do. He just drilled a bunch of holes top and bottom and welded it at the end kinda like Terry did on his rear control arm experiment and in that way he didn't have to rebuild the bottom of the arm. Looks good though. Nice job.