JMortensen

This is something that you've mentioned in a couple posts, and I can't help but think that there is something wrong with youre setup, and I'm thinking it's probably that you don't have insulators on your carbs so the heat from the head is transferring through the manifold into the carbs. I've run my car with triple 44's and a non coated header with no heat shield in 114º and not had the fuel boil in the carbs. I did get rid of the mechanical pump and the steel fuel rail (I think this is a MAJOR heat source) and ran a rubber line across the radiator support then back to the carbs, so my fuel wasn't picking up any heat from the head, and I have the original asbestos insulators. If you don't have insulators you really NEED to have them IMO, and if you have a steel fuel rail bolted to the head get rid of it. As to the original question, header wrap will soak up moisture and hold it right next to the header, causing rust. Coating the header is a much better idea, blankets are usually attached with hose clamps. The blanket should have the same basic effect as the wrap, holding moisture against the header tubes. One interesting shield that a friend of mine made was two layers of aluminum with a layer of header blanket to insulate between the inner and outer heat shield.

That was more for Bastaad, who was questioning why we went. I agree with you that Kerry had a pretty moronic response the whole issue. I believe it went something like this: "I would vote for the war again, but I wouldn't have invaded Iraq until I had a plan to win the peace. I would have done EVERYTHING differently in Iraq, including getting Germany and France and Russia in line before going in." That was about the biggest line of BS I've ever heard and I actually yelled at the TV when he said it. I think even Schroeder and Chirac came out and said "We weren't going regardless of who was president" about a week later.

Hmm, I guess a little more fiddling with the options is in order. I thought it was weird that it would allow analog left stick but not analog right stick. Thanks for the tip though.. One more thing. Am I imagining things or were some of these tracks in GT2 but not in GT3, and now they're back in GT4. The graphics are so different it's hard to be sure and I haven't played GT2 in maybe 6 or 7 years, but some of them seem really familiar...

Just got it tonight. Unfortunately you can't use the right side stick for gas/brake. This is a bummer for me cause that's how I've set up the controller since GT2. I guess it will take a little getting used to, might just have to break down and buy the wheel. What does that come with, pedals or something??? If so, how's the feel on the pedals?

I got the same specs on the L4 out of How to Modify. IMO the L6 would be ridiculous on the street, plus you're going to have to change the springs pretty frequently with that much lift. Your L4 is already HUGE for the street. I'd just let it be if it were mine.

I did basically just what you said, but I used 2 layers of 1/8" plate. I only did the section of the tunnel that angles back (where your feet are), and I did both sides. Luckily I haven't tested it. I had considered a Kevlar blanket, but never got around to getting it, and I've been told it will hold the flywheel and that it won't hold the flywheel by different people. The Z flywheel isn't right in line with your feet BTW. If you pop the hood and look the whole clutch assy is forward of the firewall. Still probably doesn't hurt to take some precautions...

And that law was passed by a 392 to 11 vote. You wanna blame somebody for why we're in Iraq, blame your Congressmen. W's plan wasn't much of a mystery, and still it seems that there are hundreds of democrat congressmen who just can't believe that we went to war. Well why the hell did they authorize it if they didn't want to go??? It seems pure hypocrisy to say that Bush got us into the war when all but 11 voted for it. The 11 have a gripe. The rest are just victims of their own votes. One of the conspiracy theories that I'm not buying is this "Bush made up all of the WMD evidence" conspiracy.

I think all of this stuff has been discussed before. IIRC the snap ring grooves inside the carrier are in the wrong spot for the front diff LSD. I seem to remember that it was possible to recut the grooves on the stubs that stick into the diff to locate the circlips correctly. This was only a few months ago, might try a little digging, maybe search for cal-mini or something like that. I want to say it was zcarnut that had the answers on that one. Again, all fuzzy memories at this point.

The bushing kit won't cross over though. You'll need to find a ZX bushing kit for sure, the suspensions are totally different.

They tried them on a couple of Z's on that dumbass Full Throttle show. Search for that... I saw a relevant thread on classiczcars.com a while back.

Not quite that simple. I'm saying that the more limited your slip is, the more rear roll stiffness you can run without lighting up the inside tire. Both Coffey and Baldwin have LSD, Coffey runs a Quaife and Baldwin a clutch type with ~10 lbs breakaway, and they both had to cut back on the rear bar to stop spinning the inside rear. I've heard from numerous sources now that Quaifes will tend to spin the inside rear on long sweepers and tight autox courses, and John himself has described how he needed to add preload (like shimming a clutch LSD) to keep this from happening. Dan seems to have the same problem I did with my 300ZX diff, and the clutch type guru Gordon Glasgow has had with a brand new Nismo diff. Despite the advertised 45 lbs for the stock and 75 lbs for the Nismo, they seem to be shipped with ~10 lbs breakaway. All of this heavily depends on how you like the car to handle as well. If you don't like understeer, you'll probably want a rear bar. If you don't like oversteer, you'll want to run without one. Both ways can be made to handle, it just depends on the rest of the setup and the driver which is faster in the end. FWIW--I ended up with just about exactly the setup that John has been advocating for years. He then changed his setup and I think he removed the rear bar completely and was saying how he could put the power down a lot earlier. Not sure if that was a driver comfort issue or just a faster setup in his car or if it made up for the slippy Quaife or what, but it was a pretty big change from what he had previously been saying and it seemed to work for him.

Don't know about the 280. The Honda motor is only about twice as strong as the stock motor, so it still isn't that great, but at least you can feel the air coming out. I got mine from a jy for $5 or $10. It's worth it for that $$$. I read somewhere about a guy who put a Buick blower motor in with some modification IIRC and said it was like a tornado inside the car afterwards.

Mid 80's Civic or Integra. I think the one I pulled mine from was 87. Just need to make a little pigtail that extends the stock harness to the plug on the blower motor, otherwise it is a direct bolt in.

Someone probably cut the springs too much. Might try to get another pair of springs. I was under the impression that the 302 was lighter than the original 6. Oops, what they said...

Being open-minded is not all it's cracked up to be. The best place to be is somewhere in the middle, so that you don't spend all of your time running down ridiculous leads only to find out that they weren't right to begin with. My biggest open-minded pet peeve: "ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE." My usual response: "No, it isn't. Come back when you can stick a full size grand piano up your butt, then we'll talk... until then it's impossible." The second biggest: "DON'T ASSUME ANYTHING." How does a person know ANYTHING if they don't assume? Because all of the knowledge that you would ever gain would have to be constantly tested for accuracy. Should we need to test reality in every way every time we wake up, just to make sure that nothing has changed since yesterday, or can we make that assumption. Should you not assume that cat poo isn't good to eat?I'm willing to make this assumption, even though I may not have tested a particular steaming pile of cat poo. I'm not totally closed-minded, but a good dose of skepticism is in order. One of the best tests for me is to look at the other things that the conspiracy therorists are saying. If all of their other beliefs are screwy, then there is a good chance... not a 100% assurance... but a good chance that the one you think has an outside chance of plausibility is most likely BS too. The problem is that a conspiracy theory doesn't gain any traction unless it has a believable element to it. Conspiracy theorists are the sophists of the modern era. They can take any argument and make it believable. That is why skepticism is healthy.

"Taco Bell is the only restaurant to survive the franchise wars. Now every restaurant is Taco Bell." Sorry, wrong movie...

Remove the gas cap, replace what's left, reinstall gas cap. What could be simpler?

Nobody has mentioned noise yet. The oilless pumps are really loud and annoyingly high pitched IME, and the oiled pumps are just loud, but IMO much less annoying. The best one I've seen as far as noise goes was the Ingersoll-Rand I think it was a 60 gal unit a friend of mine has. That's the only one I've seen where you can stand right next to it and feel no need to yell to have a conversation while it's pumping.

You're right datsunlover. More rear roll bar means more inside tire spin. That's one of the reasons that racers run as soft as they can with tiny or no swaybars in the rain. Less traction requires less roll resistance. This is also why John Coffey and Dan Baldwin went smaller or got rid of their rear sway bars when they had inside tire spin on their cars. Datsunlover, do you still have any pics of your old swaybar? Might help Skelly to see them. It was barely on the car, and caused him all sorts of hassle. If yours is like that you should be able to fix it so that is mounted correctly. It sounds to me like you need spacers between the uprights and the bushings to pull the bar back away from the uprights. That's pretty common for the rear mounted bars from what I can tell. ScumDog, I wouldn't take off your rear bar unless your having real trouble with one wheel peel. If you're not the handling benefits far outweigh the traction losses IMO (course I don't have a V8). Of course, with a LSD you'd be set either way...

50/50 SWEPCO 201 and ATF is my preferred blend.

http://www.ringpinion.com/content/products/default.asp?vid=6&pid=4 Looks like your choices are Ford (looks like it is made by Eaton in this case) and Auburn Gear. The Eatons tend to chatter less and are rebuildable, so that would be my suggestion. EDIT--Actually I would make sure that the Eaton is not the Gov-Lock. The Gov Lock sucks and you'd be better off with the AG in that case. If it is the good Eaton, then get the Eaton.

From How to Modify: Sure you can have sludge plug up the spray bar. But you won't have that problem if the oil is changed regularly. Direct oiling isn't foolproof either. I think Dan Baldwin had a Schneider cam failure on his direct oiled cam, I'm surprised he hasn't shared his experience. I wouldn't hesitate to run both. As Tony points out there are only 2 TINY holes that feed the valvetrain. Open up the holes a bit and there should be plenty of capacity for both setups to run.

My wife and I are struggling with this as we speak. We sold our house in CA to move here to Seattle so that she could go to grad school. The plan was to rent the house, but when it didn't rent for 4 months we had to sell. So now she's looking at about a year more in school, then the plan was to go back to CA. I really want to go back, all my friends and family are there, but it's so damn expensive. Our house that we sold for 315K is probably about 500K now, and it wasn't that special to be honest. It was a 3 bed 2 bath with a 2 car garage on a relatively busy street. I'd like some land, a separate shop, etc, but I'm thinking that the only way for that to happen is to move to another state. WA sucks donkey balls so I know I'm getting the hell outta here, and the draw to CA is still strong, but I keep thinking NM, AZ, maybe even ID...

Read about c-clip eliminators before you buy them. They suck. Big time. If you're going to narrow the housing anyway, do like 73 TPIZ said and weld 9" outers on it: