JMortensen

Dan, that is what I call "pseudo-insulting." You and I have argued before and I have admitted when I was wrong. It wasn't that long ago either. I think we've argued points on this board or the IZCC list several times over the past 5 years or so. I don't know if all of them had an "outcome" or a "winner", but you should know by now that I WILL admit when I'm wrong, even if it takes beating me over the head with logic a couple hundred times to get me there. In this case though, I think it is you who doesn't have a leg to stand on. John's engine has it. Norm's apparently has it (if what Bastaad says is true). Yours does not. If you would bother to read what the experts say about quench before deciding that you can't have an opinion about it you would have known that your engine couldn't possibly have it. If I recall your build correctly with pistons just below deck height and a 2mm gasket, your engine DOES NOT have quench. You'd need a P90 with a gasket short enough to get the piston within about .040 to get the most quench in an L engine with flat tops. The N42 does have a very small bit around the edge of the chamber. You may say that this proves your point that it is not necessary, but I would say that I suspect you're missing out, and only have the hundred experts who may or may not have built an L engine to back me up. The problem here as John said is that once you start modding the heads, then it all becomes a moot point, so I guess further arguing about it is pointless. If you are not an astronaut believing only what you see makes you a good candidate for a Flat Earth Society membership.

You're going to need a rubber line between the engine and the fender. If you put a solid line between these two every time the engine rocks back and forth it is going to bend your steel line until it eventually breaks. You could use ss braided line. Also, maybe I just haven't been exposed to enough brake lines, but the stuff I'm familiar with is way too small for fuel line.

I'm sure the valve guide hole could be machined larger and offset to the side, then a regular centered valve guide with a larger OD and same ID could be installed to get the valves farther apart. Then you'd just need one hell of a port job.

When they had those in Simi Valley and Moorpark CA years back that's what my friend with dual Mikunis on his 510 did. He didn't shut it off, but he would put it in neutral and idle past. He'd just blast up the onramp then roll on by. He never got pulled over and they used to set the trailer up on the onramp he used to go home from work, so it worked for him more than once.

Yep, I sure do. I AM arguing that the P heads are better. I dunno. Swap modded P heads (and pistons on John's) on all those motors and see what happens. I'm not about to try and duplicate all the work in those engines to prove a point to you. Evidence: http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_897063_6800,00.html http://www.theoldone.com/archive/quench-area.htm http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/47075/ http://www.beckracing.com/page05.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0311_phr_power_squeeze/ http://www.atvrideronline.com/quads/100_0308_racer/ http://www.westechperformance.com/pages/Tech_Library/Understanding/hpvstq.html http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/5115/ http://www.corollaperformance.com/TechInfo/1ZZFE.html http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/feb98/february.html I CAN KEEP GOING. I CAN DO PAGES AND PAGES OF THIS. You've got imports, domestics, even ATV's in that list. Everyone seems to think that quench is an extremely beneficial thing, except you Dan. And you won't say that it is NOT beneficial, just that you need proof that it is, and of course the above experts' clear explanations of why quench is important and beneficial don't qualify under your "show me Norm's motor or my motor or John's motor with a P head making more power". You can choose to require a form of proof that will not exist until you 3 put P90's on your engines (so basically it will never exist). I'll choose to side with all the experts, realizing that I'm not an expert myself and also realizing that you specifically state that you aren't an expert either. EDIT--Found a better quote:

Total agreement here too. Wow. Agreement...

This was my experience in bolting an E31 onto an L28 with flat tops too. I am beginning to think that our pinging problems have more to do with CA's crap gas then anything else. I mean my chambers are polished and I still had severe pinging unless I ran drastically retarded timing which is a good way to warp exhaust valves and lose buttloads of hp. I found that I needed to mix gas to get about 95 octane to stop the pinging in my case. If Nissan had it "figured out" then why did they bother with the P79? They could have just left it alone and let the N42 go for another 4 years. How come L4 guys all covet the small chamber heads (similar to P90)? I agree with John when he talks about HIS N42. Like when we were arguing this last time and you said that you had your pistons machined to provide quench on your N42. That makes sense to me. But for the average guy who wants to slap a head on a block with flat tops, run pump gas, and get the best result, I don't think you can beat the P90 shaved .080. Dan's argument turns against him here. You're trying to convince us that the '76 head is better than an '81 head. '76 was right in the heart of the crappiest smog years in history, and that's when the N42 came about. Not that '81 was much better, but the '81 certainly looks a hell of a lot more like the '70. I am going to adopt Dan's approach on the closed chamber heads though because I like the way it puts the onus on someone else to do something: show me an open chamber L engine that makes the SAME power with flat tops and the same compression ratio as a closed chamber, high quench and I'll be convinced. Until that happens I'll keep with the engine builders and promote what is commonly considered the preferable design: the closed chamber high quench area head.

Your header isn't going to cause your car to run like crap after a couple days. It's either going to run strong or run like crap right away. You might want to double check the manifold bolts and nuts just to make sure they are tight though... Could be anything, but not the header. Check the usual driveability stuff, clogged filters, ignition problems, etc. Maybe you knocked a connection loose (coil wire?) while you were installing the header. The Z SU's are easy to tune and easy to maintain. Check out http://www.ztherapy.com if you aren't familiar with them. Buy the video from ZTherapy if nothing else.

Live by the wind tunnel, die by the wind tunnel.

I'm really surprised to see JohnC and tannji holding up FDR as some sort of guide as to how presidents should be. I think if you both look into his presidency you might find some stuff that you don't necessarily agree with. When I think of FDR I think of the Great Depression and the New Deal and "Uncle Joe", and what those things still mean for us today. We're still suffering from the effects of FDR's administration.

The rocker arms have a curved contact surface. Anyplace that grinds cams can properly resurface the rockers. You'll need to change your lash pads in all likelihood if you change either the cam or the rockers or both.

It's getting pretty Orwellian... http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5898175/?GT1=5100

If you want better search results, click the "search for all terms" bullet right below your keywords. That way you won't get every post that has "brakes" or "warped" in it. The Powerstops I had on my car put up with AMAZING amounts of abuse. I mean AMAZING. Boiled the fluid probably 10 times, ran the fronts metal to metal twice (just barely), went through probably 6 or 7 different sets of pads, all on the same rotors, never turned them and they never warped or gave me any shudder. Search for Stop Tech if you want to see that article about brake warping. It is interesting, and I believe what it says. Personally I can tell you I have had very bad experiences with Metal Masters and "warping", don't like the braking that I get from your average auto parts store pads, and have liked the Porterfield pads that I've used, although I did find that stock fronts and R4S pads are GROSSLY inadequate for any track use.

I would think you'd just slot them as much as you can... Keep the bolts tight and it should be fine. I've had my front crossmember slotted for ~6 years to adjust bump steer and my front control arms haven't moved at all. I just check the torque on the bolts every once in a while.

Not familiar with the "K-MAC" kit, but have you asked around with any 510 groups? IIRC the MSA kit was basically just a couple of washers that helped adjust a slotted crossmember. I did an alignment on my friend's slotted 510 with no washers and we just adjusted it with a prybar. Wasn't too bad at all. I wonder if Design Products makes a penultimate ZX crossmember (he makes them for 510's, right?). Probably doesn't matter anyway, even if he did it would be $$$...

I recently got a Millermatic 135 from the ebay seller "weldfabulous". Ran $607 for the welder, no cart, no gas, but it did come with a Hobart helmet and a pair of gloves at that price. Immediately upon hooking up the gas and regulator, the regulator blew up. I could have warrantied it, but I talked to a couple of friends who said similar things had happended to them, and that the Lincoln and Miller regulators that you get with the welders are basically crap, so I just replaced it. I think I was in the low $900s with the welder, gas, regulator, helmet, gloves, extra spool of wire and a big ass wire brush and a couple other little miscellaneous things. The weldfabulous guys definitely had the best deal on the welder itself. Nice thing about the 135 is the infinitely adjustable amperage. Go to Sears or Harbor Freight and you'll see that the cheapos have like 5 settings. So if you want to weld sheet metal you have to hope that one of the settings is close, and if not you have to turn it to the next higher setting and lay your beads down really fast.

I don't claim to understand everything I just read, but in Dan's link this is one of the first things stated: Is it just me or does this not make any sense? I was under the impression that a piston on a short rod is going to be faster everywhere, and a long rod is going to be slower everywhere given the same engine rpm.

So was that with or without the diff?

I think I read the original question wrong. I'm thinking the whole subframe with diff, axles, struts, control arms, sway bar, brakes, and wheels. Take out the driveline stuff and I'm a lot closer to Tim.

All I can say is that I've had several engineers and fabricators do little projects for me, and those people can turn a 1/2 hour job into 16 hours easy. Everything I had done turned out GREAT, but it could have been 1/2 as great and 10 times cheaper if they didn't absolutely obsess on the details and I still would have been happy. I got to the point where I would say "I can buy this piece from here for X dollars. If I bring you this material, can you do this job for less than X?" and wouldn't give them the job unless they committed to it being cheaper. They weren't trying to screw me at all, but fabricators are a different breed, and man they can be ANAL... Since you obviously can't just go buy this header, my advice is set yourself a dollar amount that you think it's worth and then go to the guy who has all the equipment and tell him you think it is worth X and you want him to do it, but you don't want to pay more than X.

The Supra is a big heavy pig. I'll guess 500+...

Assuming that the mono ball isn't loose in the joint (and that does happen), I'd say you have 2 options: 1. tighten the crap out of the bolt to keep it from shifting when you hit a bump 2. weld the nut to the plate so that it can't shift.

I've got a 250 race slick under a stock fender (same ones Clifton uses if memory serves) but that's with a coilover. Without coilovers I would guess that a 225 might fit. 205's would be the best width for a 7" rim IME.

What's that saying about pots and kettles...

Both sides need to stop trying to re-write history. Just to back up my statement about the projected casualties: http://63.135.115.158/article.asp?ID=1098 http://www.consciouschoice.com/issues/cc1511/invadingiraq1511.html http://www.survivalforum.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=894 Looks like the pentagon was closest, not stating an actual number but preparing for 10 times the number of casualties we've suffered to date. http://www.war-times.org/issues/7art6.html This is estimated civilian casualties: