JMortensen

Ah, forget it...

Sounds familiar:

It's Ricer Compact Car folks. Whaddya expect???

Both these guys are right. With a stock cam and 10.2:1 you'd be running on the ragged edge of pinging. With a stock cam and 165 lbs, I'd guess you're running about 8:1. Could it be that the engine already has an aftermarket cam in it though...you didn't say. Do you know what head/pistons are in it? You can figure the compression out that way. IIRC the FSM for the 280Z says compression tests should show about 180 and they were 8.3:1, but that's pure years old recollection, so hopefully someone will back that statement up. If you're serious about getting 230 to the wheels, talk to Dan Baldwin. He tried SU's, then Jag SU's, then finally went to triples and got 255whp out of his 3.1. I don't recall what he was able to get out of the various SU setups he has, but I do remember him agreeing with me that switching from SU's to triples is like flipping on a 40 hp light switch. I've never dynoed mine but I'm sure that I'm right in the area you want to be. I struggled with SU's for years because I was scared of the triples. Everyone said that they were such a PITA, and while they were right and it did take me a while to dial them in, they make a HUGE difference. If you like top end power, get triples. If you like low end, then bore your SU's and be happy with your flat torque curve and the idea that you may not hit 230 and it might not like to rev past 6K, but it will be a lot more driveable on the street.

Dude I'd go to the parts store and get the $10 bolt on tip to get the exhaust out from under the sheet metal. Though it looks like you might have to cut the metal a bit to do it. If your seals aren't good, you're gonna be getting high for free...

I cut it back to 5 shims, and that got me 100 lbs. 4 shims = 40 lbs. I think I'm gonna run it in several months when the rest of the project is done and see what it does. I'm not too scared of 100 lbs breakaway, because a lot of the posis I sold for Randys were 150 and better supposedly (they didn't really rate them that way). I have a feeling it will really affect my turn in, seeing as how I was running 20 something lbs before, but I've got adjustable everything so I should be able to tune out any push. I can't believe this thing required .020 shim to get up to 100 lbs. The clutches were not really worn, so I can only imagine that they tuned them down in later years??? Having been in a car with a clutch style LSD with no additive I can see why they would want to do that. Anyway with the rate that I get things done I'll let you all know how it works next June...

I think you're going to need to take it to a machine shop to get your answers. You'll PROBABLY be able to turn the crank and reuse the rods, but in order to know for sure someone is going to have to tear it down and measure everything.

I've only looked at one RC LSD and that was many years ago, but on a car LSD this is a good way to wear it out really quick or break it. It would also work on an open diff, but even there it would be REALLY hard on the spider gears. Pull the motor out or get a roller long enough to put both wheels on.

Well I did 6 and now I have a spool. I'm going to cut it back to 5 and see what that does, but we had a little power outage here and the wife got hungry so I had to fire up the BBQ instead of continuing on...

More confusion... Tried some shims today. Figured that one shim was going to get me where I needed to be, so that's what I started with. (EDIT--stuff I wrote previously was wrong) WITH the shim, breakaway was a whopping 24 lbs. Added another .004" shim, up to 32 lbs. Went to 4 shims, total of .016", got 45 lbs. I'm going to keep adding until I get in the general vicinity of where I wanna be, but it seems strange to have that little change from the shim I did add. One thing I'm doing, and I can't imagine that this is anything other than the right way to do it, is I'm testing the clutches wet. I've added a tube of LSD additive to the oil I'm using to test. So it's probably 50/50 oil and additive. I can't imagine that the concentration of additive would be a problem, but I just thought I'd throw that out there. I would test with the SWEPCO 201 I plan on using in the diff, but I just don't have any right now... This project is kinda pissing me off, because NOTHING is what it is supposed to be with the LSD. I'm cutting up some more shims, I guess unless someone advises me to do otherwise I'll just keep shimming it until I get it where I want it.

Boy, I wish my "racoon" had 4 hands... Mmmmmm.... 4 hands.... 8)

There have been several posts by newcomers lately where the first response told them to search and then answered the question. There was apparently a weak attempt at a search, then another question. Someone answered the second question and told them to keep searching. They then asked another question. Again, someone answered the third question and told them to search. Again the newbie asked another question, etc etc. My point is that if something has been dealt with before it is in the best interests of all of us NOT to answer the question. The more responses a topic has, the more "legitimate" it looks, and eventually the more legitimate it becomes. This is unfortunate because there is now ANOTHER post in the database with the same information being repeated, and one more time waster for someone trying to search through the archives. It might be too much to implement or deal with, but I wonder if it would be possible for the mods of a forum to somehow approve questions before they actually get posted. If the question has been answered 100 times, the mods could then tell the person asking to search and possibly explain how to search and thus prevent one more useless post from cluttering the database. Or maybe the mods could just delete useless posts or even lock them to prevent them growing into a semblance of legitimacy.

http://www.bowlingfortruth.com/fahrenheit911/foxcall.htm It appears that Mr. Moore has left us with plenty of deprogramming chores to do...

Wrap a zip tie aroud your IC pipe. Wrap another zip tie around the first zip tie, and stick the plug wire through it. Tighten both, trim excess. Problem solved.

Socket you clearly do not understand the American electoral college system. Each state gets electoral votes based on representation in Congress. Since our Constitution protects smaller states (to a small degree) from being at the whim of bigger states by allowing ALL states 2 senators, an individual from Wyoming (state with a low population) will actually have a greater input with his single vote than a voter from a state with a very large population. 3 times in US history the president has won the election and lost the popular vote. This skewing of power was purposefully done when the country was founded. There were concerns at the time about the cities taking control of the rural areas by popular vote and forcing their will on the rural areas. This fear is well founded. Look at a United States election map. Lots of red (republican), very little blue (democrat). http://www.businessweek.com/2000/00_44/b3705061.htm http://www.socialstudieshelp.com/Lesson_15_Notes.htm The democrats do have most of the states with big cities, because big cities are by their nature breeding grounds for discontent and the people in them tend to think they "need" government entitlements (that's less fact and more just my opinion). I don't understand American voter apathy either, but I think it has less to do with representation in the electoral college and more to do with the nastiness and corruption that surrounds American political candidates, no matter which side they are on. I do know that there are very few die hard super leftists that actually believes that Bush "stole" the election, although after 2000 I did hear a lot of calls for an amendment to elect the president off of a straight popular vote. I would not support a compulsory vote because so few people in this country actually take an interest. At least the people who go to the voting booths on their own might have a clue about what is going on. Michael Moore is not correct BTW. We already pointed that out.

How could I forget the nefarious NWO: http://educate-yourself.org/nwo/

I think in all fairness people should be able to examine some of the theories that Kevin is alluding to here so that they can make up their own minds. The short descriptions of some of the conspiracy theories that Kevin is espousing: http://www.rotten.com/library/conspiracy/freemasonry/ http://www.rotten.com/library/conspiracy/illuminati/ http://www.rotten.com/library/conspiracy/knights-templar/ http://www.fiu.edu/~mizrachs/poseur3.html One site with brief rundowns on most of the popular contemporary conspiracy theories (including the ones Kevin alluded to):http://www.meta-religion.com/Secret_societies/secret_societies.htm Straight from the source: http://www.larouchepub.com/lar/2004/3125ccf_culture.html Everyone should read about this stuff. This is where a lot of your fringe gropus such as anti-globalists, socialists, fascists, anti-semites, and others come from. If they don't spring DIRECTLY from these theories, a lot of them lean heavily on these theories.

Well thanks guys! That was a while ago too. The Z was already 2 or 3 steps ahead of that stage when I tore into it in the spring, and with this new round of $$$ I'm throwing at the Z it should be a hell of a lot faster than way back in 2000. datsunlover, if you really want to do it right see if there is already an existing club in your area. Between timing lights and several hundred cones it's really expensive to do an autox yourself, not to mention the time constraints. Takes a long time to set up and tear it down. All the ones that I've been to have been at very rural airfields, and people showed up at crack of dawn to start setting up and go home at dusk or worse. There's little to no money in it. All for fun. All the people who take their own time and money to set these events up deserve a big thumbs up.

One of the big no-no's in Porsche-land is to put on a whale tail and no front air dam. Don't know if you have a front air dam or not, but that would be something to consider. Aside from that unusual whale tail thing, you ought to start with the basics. The tie rods and ball joints are usually worn, wheel bearings can be loose, steering racks can develop play. Alignment will affect the way it drives too. If you have a lot of neg camber that will cause a lot of dartiness, so if you've lowered the car some that might be a factor. Front toe setting will also affect this. You'll want a little toe in in the front to counteract the darty feeling, although a little toe out would help it turn in a bit better.

I think this is very true. It seems to me that the mods should just bring down the hammer quicker and harder. No changes needed. It's more than apparent that the mods are already watching things closely, they are just seemingly reluctant to make a big stink about it when someone posts something that is "inappropriate". I know that it's subjective, but it's up to YOU GUYS, not up to us lowly members to determine what's OK and what isn't. As far as $$$ goes, I've already donated and was happy to do so. Obviously I feel that this place has some value to me personally (LOTS actually) but I think I'd be less happy about sending off that check if I my hand were forced. Back to the search thing--The more I think about it the more I think that maybe sims76 had a point. If you didn't let people post for a period of a month or something, they'd probably get bored/frustrated enough that they would search.

This is not the first place I've heard of this. The first place was in an article in a POC magazine where they drove a 944 around with a tattle-tale dial indicator hooked up to measure the deflection. The outside always deflected out. Until someone does that with a Z and comes up with a different result, I'll go with the BMW and Porsche guys on this one. BTW I appreciate not believing it because you saw it on the internet too. I try not to be easy to convince, but I have fallen prey to my own gullibility on occasion...

My buddy did one in his 510 for a set of dual Tiltons. He built a frame up that attached in the stock dash attachment locations, and it held a 3/4" rod end that he used on his steering shaft. It came out sweet. I just think it's a big PITA to do it if you don't need to. He's had more trouble with the Tiltons than I ever did with the stock masters. I guess on the plus side you can tailor the size of the masters to the braking system so that you can get rid of the booster, but that's about the only advantage I can see with duals, aside from the WOW factor.

Should be just brake fluid, and he probably slid away from the little that spilled.

I know, I know Drax. It also says that straight bumps will flex the towers together. Really they flex all over the damn place, and should be tied into a roll cage or bar to keep them from flexing fore and aft too. Pete said I was just busting his chops a little. Sorry Pete, couldn't resist.

You mean holding the towers together during hard cornering, right Pete? http://e30m3performance.com/myths/Strutbar_Theory/strut_bar_theory.htm